So I have a matte finish 625-8 4 inch 45 ACP. I have tried just about everything to get the powder burns off the end of the cylinder. Does anyone have a good trick? I got about 85% of it off but the rest isn't wanting to come off. I was thinking about having my gunsmith Cerakote the front face of the cylinder where all the carbon builds up, but wonder if it will get scratched up on the forcing cone.

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Want a toy? Buy a plastic gun

Be careful when doing any type of excessive cleaning to the front cylinder. The gap between cylinder and barrel is fitted just right and two much metal worn away, or too much build up could cause serious issues.

You are probably not going to be able to get it completely off, and many people just don't bother. My 642 came from the factory with some very light residue on two of the chamber from the test fire, and if S&W didn't get it all off, then I'm not going to worry about it.

You can try a pencil eraser, which does a pretty good jump taking the junk off the tip of my stainless steel muzzle, but it's tedious and messy.

IMHO, it'll give your 625 additional character. It's a great firearm and was built to be used. Enjoy it.

It is not powder-It is lead. Take the cylinder out and soak in a lead remove chemical & 00 steel wool in one direction will take it off. If you shoot it often don't worry-you can clean it when you get rid of it. You do not wont to clean every time you shoot other than wipe it off good if you are going to shoot every week. A soft brass brush across the cylinder will not hurt.

Pro-Shot lead-clean gun cloth. Use to remove lead and carbon from the face of cylinders and muzzles. Use only on stainless or nickel finished guns. DO NOT USE ON BLUED OR CASE HARDENED SURFACES. ( not yelling, it's that way on the label ). Be sure to read the entire label and check with gun shop staff.

I use simichrome. Rub a liberal amount of simichrome on the front of the cylinder and let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour. Then use a stiff toothbrush, usually cleans up real nice.

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Expect no quarter.

Full strength Simple Green and either a maroon or white or scotchbrite pad, depending on the build up.... works wonders on my 629.

You'd have to go aways to have any impact on the barrel/cylinder gap... unless you're using a file on it, it will stand up to the common stuff, like scotchbrite pads stiff brushes (including stainless). There is a tool for removing lead fouling on the barrel forcing cone called the Lewis Lead remover. It uses bronze mesh screen... and it does not alter the forcing cone dimensions... the stuff mentioned by myself and others isn't going to take any metal off the cylinder face.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

yup...it comes off...i use the leadaway cloth made by birchwood casey or outers,hoppes,and others i'm sure...that and a shop rag will do it...i don't suggest it for a blued finish

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

Wow. Thanks guys! I will try a few of these options and see what works best for me. I think I saw the lead remover cloth at the gunshop. I try and shoot 100 rounds a week or so, just cause it is fun. I didn't want tons of buildup either. I am very meticulous when it comes to cleaning my guns and was concerned with this revolver. Only because it is the first revolver I have ever owned and I love it. Figured you seasoned guys had some good tricks. I appreciate it very much!

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I usually don't bother but this question came up a couple of times and I wanted to see if I could get the scorch rings off the front of my wife's 66-3. I was given a bottle of a gun cleaner/lubricant called Firepower FP-10 to evaluate by a local shop. A few minutes with that and a fine scotchbrite pad cleaned it right up.

Get some Mothers mag polish I like paste but liquid works to soak or saturate a 1 3/4 in cleaning patch then rap the patch on a 5/8 square by 1 1/2 long piece of smooth wood dimension not important with cylinder removed from the gun gently rub takes just a minute or so everything is clean and looks great!!!

I was swearing a blue streak about the gunk on the front of the cylinder, the gun (stainless 686) was used when I bought it but clean with no marks. My wife had me try a Shaklee product that is now called 'Scour It'. Don't let the name put you off.

Here is what I did. I wrapped my fore finger in a cloth, barely dampened it, put some cleaner on the tip of my finger. All I did was rub the front of the cylinder and in 10 seconds the marks started coming right off. A minute and the job was done. No scouring, no soaking. I use 2400 powder and it makes a real mess. I had tried everything and it never put a slight dent in the burn marks. I had spent two nights on it and was ready to use a bronze brush, but had no need after my wife came up with this stuff.

'Scour it' is made for kitchen stuff (copper, stove eyes, stain. steel) that has burned crud on it. The old stuff I have is called 'At ease' but the Shaklee rep told me that 'Scour It' is the same thing with a new name. You don't have to 'accept' the stains on the front of your cylinder. If you want to know more, PM me.

I think of it like the seasoning on a cast iron skillet. As long as it's not a raised build up I don't worry about it. It saves a lot of time and too much aggressive cleaning is not good. Don't worry, be happy.

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AL
Pax Per Potens

I use Blitz cloth for this purpose - amazing stuff!

Used those in the Army, haven't seen one in years. Is it the same thing?

OK, here's another tip (not that you don't have enough already!).

BE SURE GUN IS UNLOADED!! Take a small stainless steel bristle brush (available at Home Depot in the paint section), soak it in Hoppe's and brush the solvent into the face of the cylinder and let it sit overnight. Use it liberally! Let it sit overnight. Get up in the morning and, after your second cup of coffee, hit it again and - voila! - the scorching will come right off! I do this to my SS guns once a month when I fire 'em and it works like a champ and NEVER leaves any scratches or brush marks. Be sure to hit the forcing cone and underside of the top strap in the same manner. While you're at it, check the front of the cylinder crane and frame where it seats in the battery position. Lots of crud will build up there as well.

If you really want to do a bang-up job (no pun intended), using a well-fitting gunsmith screwdriver, remove the front screw from the sideplate being VERY careful NOT to damage the screw slot and GENTLY slide the cylinder/crane assembly off the front of the frame, indexing it with the frame as you go. When you have the cylinder & crane assembly in your hand, just slide the cylinder and extractor rod assembly off the crane (to the rear) and you'll have the entire front face of the cylinder to work on without having the frame & crane in your way. Press the extractor rod to the rear and clean out the crud under the extractor star and where it seats on the rear face of the cylinder while you're at it.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Good luck and be sure to lubricate all moving parts of the cylinder & crane with a light lubricating oil before you reassemble the gun!

Get a can of Kroil, either liquid or spray, either take off cylinder or stand upright in vice with towel or something soft in jaws. Either drip or spray some on and let it sit a few hours or overnight. It generally just wipes off after sitting. It also works great to get lead out of bore, just apply some with a brush or patch let sit a while and the lead comes right off.

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Thanks
Allen

Ok, so I got it all off with ease. It took me about 2 mins. I mentioned it to my smitthy when I was at the gun store today. He uses FLITZ metal polish. It comes in a tube and you just dab a tiny bit on the cylinder face and rub it with your finger...it comes right off. Sweet.

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I have used Comet cleanser with a toothbrush and water. Worked fine for me. Rinse with hot water.

I use Butch's bore shine. Rub it on liberally and let it set for a few minutes. Then light work with an old toothbrush cleans it right off. Then a few soft rags to get any excess solvent off. Works real nice on blued revolvers. Great on SS.