Greetings:

Just curious, but is it possible AND practical to convert a standard, 6-shot, Model 686 to the 7-shot, 686 Plus version? Is this a factory job, or something that can be done at home? Roughly, what would be involved in such a conversion?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

Regards,

Dave

Very do-able. Give S&W a call. It does require fitting the ratchets so it is a "send it to S&W" thing.

Totally doable . I had Vito in the PC shop do one for me . He told me the 7 shot cylinder was actually stronger . I had it done shortly after the 7 shot cylinders came out , along with a Master action job . As I recall price was competitive , turnaround time a hell of a lot quicker & shipping cheaper too as they sent me a shipping label to send it in .

Tomcatt51 & Boatbum101: many thanks for your responses.

Boatbum101: PM sent - please check your messages.

Regards,

Dave

The 7 shot titanium cylinder is stronger (my understanding is they're virtually "bulge proof") but I'd question the SS 7 shot cylinder being stronger.

Maybe the offset cylinder notches would eliminate the weak point?

__________________
Mark

Yes, that would do it.

Probably could buy another 6 shot 686 for close to conversion cost(and have 12 shots) to boot.

It might be cheaper to sell the 6 shooter and buy a 7 shooter.

Thanks, everyone for your responses and advice.

Here is a photo of the subject revolver - a Model 686-3 with Leupold 2x scope and Leupold rings. Simply the most accurate revolver I've ever shot. I've never shot it without the scope as it's so much fun, and so accurate as it sits. I was briefly entertaining thoughts of buying a different long barreled .357 Magnum revolver and then trading or selling the 686-3, but I waited a day too long, and someone else bought the other revolver. As you can see from the photo, my 686-3 is a silhouette version, and while not rare, are fairly uncommon. So, I don't want to do too much modification to it and chance ruining its resale/trade value.

Again, many thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Regards,

Dave

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686-3 #1.jpg (82.9 KB, 94 views)

S&W cylinders with an odd number of charge holes, by virtue of the lockwork, are always much stronger. The lock notches in 5 shot and 7 shot cylinders are offset and placed in the thickest part of the cylinder, rather than directly over the thinnest part of the outside wall of the charge hole.

It does not really matter in the Heavy Duty, Model 20, the Outdoorsman, Model 23, the ".357" Magnum and subsequent Models 27, 28, 520 as there is enough space between charge holes in the N Frame 38s and .357s to "plant a garden."

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Cylinder size K357 v N38.jpg (14.0 KB, 70 views)

Yes again. That was covered back in post #6. I was thinking (perhaps incorrectly by not considering even and odd numbers of chambers) in terms of material strength. The titanium cylinders being much stronger than the SS cylinders, regardless of the number of chambers. The L frame 7 shot cylinders do have less material between the chambers.

Nice gun. If it was mine I wouldn't sell it. I'd get a 7 shot titanium cylinder for it, may have to wait a while (I'm waiting on 2 back-ordered 327 titanium cylinders to put in 627's) then have the the cylinder fitted. Done well you'll be able to use either cylinder.