By tool you mean the yoke/crane alignment tool, yes?You can use the hammer, but the round lead babbit bar is much better due to its weight. You just have to be gentler with the raps if you use the lead bar. Remember to use the tool that goes inside the yoke barrel, so you don't crush it.![]()
Noted and thank you.If you insist on using a hammer, buy a small dead blow hammer.
A standard plastic hammer will bounce too much dissipating the force and making it hard to judge how much bend you're getting.
The babbitt bar is to have a heavy mass that won't bounce, and won't marr the metal.
You could also use a lead bar.
A plastic hammer is a non-starter. Don't.
Most babbitt bars I've seen in shops have been wrapped in electrician's tape; same purpose?And if you use anything but a babbitt or lead bar, put a soft cloth around the cylinder to protect the finish.
Most babbitt bars I've seen in shops have been wrapped in electrician's tape; same purpose?
does anyone have a tutorial or a video on fixing this gap?
i have a decent gap on my 625 that has always bugged me
Well done.This whole thread gave me a reminder of my Master Armorer's Class from S&W. The 'final' exercise was to take a furnished revolver that had its frame/barrel and yoke all bent out of specifications. Each of us had to bring the revolver assigned to us back into specifications using only the Babbitt Rod, Range Rod, poly wedge and Yoke alignment tools along with the usual feeler gauges. Thru my many years as a handgun gunsmith, I never had to correct anything that radical until just recently, I acquired (very cheaply) a pre-Model 10 that had been run over (?) at the shooting range by the previous owner. He never did quite own up to how that happened.
Anyway I got out the above tools and went to work. An hour later I had a revolver that was back into specs and was worth three times what I paid for it.............. Big Cholla