Help, Lewis Lead Remover stuck in barrel

phenson

phenson

US Veteran
Joined
Dec 16, 2008
Messages
603
Reaction score
568
Location
LA (Lower Alabama)
I borrowed a friend's Lewis Lead Remover yesterday with the intent of de-leading all my .38 and .357 revolvers. I did about 5 flawlessly and then I tried it on my 4" model 10. It seemed much tighter and after I got it about 2/3 the way up the barrel, it would not move any more. I did not want to reverse directions, so, I pulled harder. The result was the brass threads broke from the aluminum rod. I now have an obstruction in my barrel I cannot clear. I feel kinda stupid. I'm almost certain I don't want that copper screen to reverse direction in the barrel by trying to push it back through. Any advice? Please.
 
Register to hide this ad
Putting some oil down both ends of the barrel will help too.

I used to use oak dowels for my slugging but a few reviews of folks that had a bigger problem when the wood dowel broke and wedged into the barrel convinced me to change. I have since converted to using only brass rods. They will not harm the bore and most importantly they will not break! There is no grain weakness that can exist.

I would use a 5/16" rod cut about 6 inches long to drive the Lewis lead remover out. Controlled hits with short strokes.
 
Another vote for 5/16" brass rod, plenty of oil, and light blows from a heavy hammer.

Larry
 
phenson said:
I'm almost certain I don't want that copper screen to reverse direction in the barrel by trying to push it back through.
Click to expand...
The only reason you do not reverse direction is so that the lead is not redeposited.

Right now that is not a big worry.

As has been said, just use a brass squib rod and you will be fine.
 
I used to use Lewis Lead Removers a lot. If I remember correctly the knurled collar below the rubber is what controls the size and tension of the remover in the barrel. I don't know how far up the barrel its stuck or how long the barrel of the gun is, but if you can somehow access that adjustment and back it off it may take some of the tension off so it will be easier to remove from the barrel.
 
Pat - if you're determined to use wood, be danged sure it's a dowel made of very hard wood. Otherwise you run the risk, as suggested above, of the dowel splintering and wedging things even more tightly in the bore.

Larry
 
Well, maybe I'll get a brass rod then. Or, let me put this out there, since its already going to have to be replaced, could I use the aluminum rod from the lead remover safely?
 
phenson said:
Well, maybe I'll get a brass rod then. Or, let me put this out there, since its already going to have to be replaced, could I use the aluminum rod from the lead remover safely?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do that. The strength of that little rod is for pulling, not pushing. Plus, its a loose fit in the barrel, leaving room for it to collapse (bend) potentially making things worse.

A Exact Metals 1/4" Diameter C360-H02 ASTM B16 Cold Finish Brass Round Bar x 12" Length: Brass Metal Raw Materials: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31kZSU1sCuL.@@AMEPARAM@@31kZSU1sCuL is a useful item in your range bag in case of a squib round sticking a bullet in the barrel.

Mine has been used several times - on other shooter's guns.

Expect the worst - you will never be disappointed.
 
A 3/8" brass rod is a useful item in your range bag in case of a squib round sticking a bullet in the barrel.
Click to expand...

I agree, but a 3/8" rod will not go down the barrel with the stuck Lewis Lead remover. A 5/16" will.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
  • Locked
**SOLD** Wilson Combat and Lewis lead remover)
Replies
2
Views
642
Aircrewman
A
B
Getting the Lead Out
Replies
16
Views
807
brucev
B
B
29-5 classic question
Replies
6
Views
396
stansdds
S
BDC5109
cone erosion: refitting the barrel
Replies
3
Views
381
Yendor357
Y
R
Screw Removal Problem
2
Replies
34
Views
1K
BC38
BC38

Latest posts

Back
Top