I've read a few things recently about Lauer's new product, Durablue. Apparently it is a curable spray coating (comes in a spray can) which results in a finish that closely resembles hot bluing, but more durable and corrosion-resistant. Has anyone had experience with it yet, and if so, what's your assessment? I'd like to buy a can for trial, but before doing so, I need some opinions.

I'm sure it's a 'Dura-kote' product pray spray and bake on finish

That it is, but I need to know if it is as good as it is being claimed claimed to be? I know about their other products, and have used many such coatings, but this is something which is supposed to be a real competitor to performing actual hot bluing. I can see a huge market for it if it is that good. One description said the finish looked like the Royal Blue on a Colt Python. Hard to believe, but maybe it is. That's the question I am asking.

FWIW, one other review I read said it was really blue - like "true" blue - not the black with blue highlights of regular firearms bluing. I don't know how it compares to real hot-bluing, but they have been selling different shades and sheens of black Dura-kote for a long time, so I have to wonder, how different IS this product really? I'm wondering if maybe it isn't just another shade of black Dura-kote - with blue undertones?

I think the application is somewhat simpler, no baking required. Degrease and heat the metal a little, spray on a couple of light coats, let it stand awhile to cure - that's it. Almost like a spray paint. Or so they say.

I found something on YouTube. Looks very good from what I can see:

Wow. That does look promising. Hope someone can chime in soon with some experience using it

I'd like to see a gun refinished with this stuff after it's been carried daily and fired at least once a month for about six months.

__________________
So long ... Ken

Yeah, that would be the REAL test, wouldn't it?

I've looked everywhere for actual user comments and here is all I've found:
https://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.ht...&f=19&t=440808

One thing the guy points out is to have absolutely NO rust or it won't cover.

I've got a few low end revolvers I've rebuilt, so I'm going to try it on them. They were non-working and cost me very little and I've been trying to decide on refinishing and had been leaning toward flat black metal paint. This looks like it might be a nicer choice.

One issue I have is how to hang all of the parts.

That's what I have, three revolvers and pistols which are mechanically sound but cosmetically-challenged that won't be value-impaired by a re-finish. Might even throw in a long gun to see what happens. Apparently you have but 48 hours to use the contents of the can once the curing agent has been activated. So if anyone wants to try it out on multiple guns, they must be prepped and sprayed all at once. I would probably do a dip in an HCl bath to remove bluing and rust first. But I want to hear from someone else who has done it first.

I tried it after seeing the video. I did an old Stevens 22 and a colt revolver. Both were in the whites so I figured what the heck. My observations, prep prep prep and then prep. By this I mean degrease and scrub every nook and cranny. I sprayed the first coat and waited 10 minutes per instructions and I got runs and drips. I increased time between coats 2-4 to 20 minutes and that solved that.

I did 4 coats. The finish is shiny but has a smurfy blue tint (I did blue black finish). The 22 turned out ok but the colt was a wreck. On the colt it was uneven and it didn't take in spots. Not sure why because my prep process was exactly the same.

I am going to leave the 22 but I couldn't strip the colt fast enough! I soaked it in Jasco epoxy stripper and that removed the durablue. I then soaked it in evaporust and she's back to the whites.

For some it might work. It seems durable, but take your time. I would not do it again. Hope this helps.

Your experience is noted. Would have liked to have seen some pictures, especially of the Colt before you stripped it. My suspicion is that Durablue is some type of epoxy.

Were I going to de-grease before using it, I would go heavy on the use of MEK or Acetone. My experience is that a thorough degreasing requires their use. Where I once worked, we hot-blued hundreds of guns (Brownell Oxynate), and found results were much better using an MEK wipedown of components rather than boiling in a silicate cleaner bath (also Brownell) as is typical. Reject rate dropped to essentially zero.

MEK - Methyl Ethyl Ketone? Where do you get that? Is it available at Lowes & Home Depot?

I don't know if MEK is still available because it's a carcinogen

Yes, it looks this blue under bright light (flash). Under normal light it presents darker.

Attached Images

image.jpg (51.2 KB, 899 views)

Klean Strip 32 oz. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) Solvent-QME71 - The Home Depot

MEK is quite flammable, so use it outside or in a well ventilated area away from any ignition source.

Regarding the appearance, it is not that inviting, but probably is utilitarian. It reminds me of nothing more than the finish Daisy used on their V/L rifles of the early 1970s, which I have always thought was sort of a dark gray-blue epoxy paint, but quite durable.

bumping this thread, to get some more opinions.
I have some candidates for a Durablue job, if it's what it's made up to be, but I have my doubts. I found these pics



It seems to have a good color at first, but looks like a lot of runs etc. I can't decide if a smoother application would be better... I have a FEG just like this, and also a weathered CZ 75 with the enamel chiping away. If it would look like true bluing, I would love it. But this, it just looks like Krylon to me.

Dwalt, I have done a lot of spray on type of finishes and with the prep you need to not go too far with the sanding or buffing of the metal. I have found that if I go finer than 220 grit the finish doesn't take as well.

__________________
Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

I tried the durablue 2-part aerosol can on a once distressed blued ruger security six and so not to let any leftover spray go to waste, I also had a 1917 that had been re-barreled with a 625-10 barrel.
After a thorough de-greasing followed by some 400 grit sandpaper on remaining blued finish and a final de-greasing, spray went on ok.
My advice from the lesson learned is don't rush the coverage (ruger needs blasted and redone). Spray lighter coats with adequate dry times in between and it should be ok.
As to the quality of the finish, if done properly, it can be an improvement but with my inexperienced abilities, I wasn't all that pleased but like I said, someone else could do a better job.

ETA:
I used the 400 grit to roughen up the metal and remaining finish before spraying and degreased using acetone.
If a run occurs, you might can touch up before the can hardens. It was several hours before the catalyst had set to the point it would no longer spray. I imagine cure times will vary with temp & humidity. Also, shake according to directions both before and after activating catalyst. I let mine air cure as I was told it will harden the same as oven dried but naturally takes longer (days) to fully cure. Unless your oven is big enough to suspend the parts, let it hang at least 24 hours before laying on anything so not to leave impressions in the finish.
Don't know how you're set up but I found spraying outside in full natural sunlight (under right weather conditions) worked best for me.

just coated a stevens 20gauge in gloss black looks like new.
I'm a noobie to gun refinishing, and couldn't be happier.