Hey guys,

I've been pretty fortunate that most guns I have worked on have had loose fitting pins that push in/out easily, either with hand pressure, or a very light tap of a 2 oz hammer with the correct sized punch. However, I now have 3 projects that I am working on, and 1 pin on each gun absolutely refuses to move (different areas on different guns).

I have tried soaking in Kroil. I have tried applying heat from a hair dryer. When I pound on the pin, I am damaging the pin, the punch, and the perimeter of the hole (brutal, I know...). So, I stopped that because obviously I don't want to cause any further damage. Fortunately, these are beaters in rough cosmetic shape that I'm practicing my home re-finishing anyways.

Are there any other methods/suggestions for removing stuck pins? I do not have a drill press to drill them out. I do try to use the appropriate sized starter punch and full length punch to remove and install the pins.

Thanks in advance,

SWTB

If you absolutely can't break it loose, you may have to resort to drilling out the pin.

In my limited experience, but not just with guns, a drill press and a very sharp bit (slightly smaller than the pin) are needed.

I'm sure you realize the process will require very careful setup and a cutting pressure light enough to prevent deforming the bit.

When the pin is large enough, drilling a pilot hole with a very small bit helps keep everything in alignment. Otherwise, grinding the exposed end of the pin to make it flat or even grinding a centered dimple with a sharp carbide bit is often useful.

Best of luck, sir!

When driving out pins, especially old ones that have been in place for a long while, it is critical that the firearm is carefully and correctly supported on a surface that will not mar yet yields no resistance of the firearm when the pin is struck. If the host firearm moves in the least, it takes away part of the force being applied to the pin itself and makes it hard to break the pin loose. Normally those pins need to "break loose" before they can be driven out. It takes a bit of ingenuity to create a "fixture" or surface where the firearm or portion of the firearm is resting on a very solid surface and where the firearm is completely restrained from movement when the pin is struck and where there is a relief hole to allow the pin to move when it is struck. The pin will usually drive out after the first bit of movement or "pop" occurs. A properly constructed and protected vise to hold the firearm to prevent any movement is very helpful, along with the correct tools that you mention.

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So long ... Ken

You stated the use of Kroil and heat to the pin. I would suggest applying Kroil and let it sit overnight. Then take a starter punch and apply a couple of quick blows to loosen the pin. Once it starts, then return to a regular punch. Don't forget to use a wooden or hard plastic bench block for the pin to absorb the initial blow. I have not had any problem with stubborn pins. Roll pins and some shape pins are anoth problem and you need the right punches. Also, apply some masking tape around the pin area in the event the punch moves and could damage the firearm. Go slow and no more than a 2oz hammer.

Nick

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NRA Instructor\GCA Gunsmith

Are you speaking of solid pins or roll pins?
There are some specific punches for both.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...h-Starter-Sets

There is a penetrant called PB Blaster, it is a catalyst and will remove rust and grime and bonding corrosion, it is fantastic to free up metals that are seized. However it has a horrendous odor to deal with indoors.

Karl

I have to say that something as simple looking and basic as a punch and hammer may be one of the most nerve wracking and delicate of the skills needed to be a good gun mechanic. You don't say what kind of pin but there are many types and each should be handled with the right punch. You then need a good bench block or support for the frame to prevent rocking or slippage. You don't need a moving target.

To break loose a tight pin requires a very serious direct and centered blow. A light fearful tap and off-center hit won't do it and more times than not will damage your finish. I strongly suggest practice with these tools similar to the regimen needed to properly handle a file or stone. Kroil would be a prudent penetrating oil and like others have said let it work overnight with several squirts. A drill press is a big NO for S&W pins unless you are indeed a first class machinist familiar with these guns.

If you don't have a good small ball pein hammer -- don't use a fiber or plastic as they lack power then get one and a few good quality punches. I prefer Starrett for most of my revolver work on straight or tapered pins. Cupped punches for domed or round head pins, and nipple punches for roll pins. There are more but you get the idea.

Take your time, line it up right with good magnification and don't be shy hitting the punch.

Good luck

kthom's post is exactly my experience. I had an old FM, coated with their epoxy finish. An hour later, the pin has not moved. At all. I figured my usual desktop mat (shelf liner) was too soft. Tried an old poly cutting board and the pin was out in two minutes.

Lesson learned.

Thanks for the responses everybody. It sounds like my problem right now is that I am lacking a stable support. I do use a hard plastic bench block with holes for the pins to push through, but I do not have a fixture to keep the part from moving on the block itself. The movement of the part hindering some of the energy transfer makes perfect sense. I will try to find or rig something up to do this procedure properly, so that I can keep the hole/punch aligned perfectly every time.

In regards to the masking tape around the hole, I actually tried that once on a rust blued gun. When I removed the tape, the area under it was completely in the white. Found a new blue removal process in a very unfortunate way…

If anyone has suggestions for fixtures or custom vises for the pin-punching process, I would love to hear them.

Thanks again,

SWTB

Use a STEEL bench block and place a piece of double thick paper (or painters tape) on top to avoid scratches. You definitely need a hard surface for the pin to move before the gun frame does.

Make sure you are using the correct size punch! I have seen guys use punches too large to actually push the pin out and they wind up distorting the pin hole. use a proper Ball Peen Hammer.

I have worked on a fare share of guns and have never ever failed to be able to remove a pin - even on old junkers that were not properly cared for.

Don't know what guns you are working on but some pins only go out one way. Double check that you are punching correct direction.

I've used a large lead bench block for years and have found it better than any steel or plastic block.
Nothing fancy,,just a round disc of lead about 2" thick and 5" in dia.
They get pretty beat up after a while,but you can also beat them back into shape too. Or cast another in the bottom of a large tin can.

It's soft enough to allow any irregular shape of the part to form itself into the lead.
You don't need a hole opposite the pin you're trying to punch free as it can easily start itself into the soft lead a little ways.
Once it's free, you can move the part over to the bench vise to complete removal or just complete by holding it in your lap like I do.

The dense, heavy lead block absorbs the hammer and punch blows with no vibration to the parts. Dead blow is the term that was often used and it's a good description.
Use a heavy enough hammer so you don't have to raise it back so far you loose control of the swing.
Don't use those flimsy diameter punches often sold. They will vibrate when struck with any authority. A substantial stock dia to the punch itself and a short 'punch' head for starting stubborn pins. A long gangly punch hit with much force just vibrates and bends instead of directs the energy straight thru to the pin.

I can't remember the last time I've had to drill out a pin on a gun and I've been doing mainly restoration work full time for 30yrs. 45yrs all together.
Some European guns will have tapered pins,,especially German and Austrian. So watch for that. Careful examination of both ends will show a slight diameter difference even with just an eyeball measurement.

Never fear,,someone before you may have loc-tited a loose pin into place with the red stuff to keep it from moving. Even soft soldered into place pins, rusted w/iodine and all sorts of concoctions.