After a 10 month search, I finally found a new 686 Plus, 2.5" that has a straight (uncanted) barrel. The gun locks up good and otherwise appears perfect except there are some scuff marks on the bottom of the trigger guard. However, before I buy it , I would have to be content that I can successfully remove the scratches.

Anyone have any experience in removing scratch marks from a stainless 686? Would a ScotchBrite Gray pad give a perfect match to the factory finish. Fortunately, this is on the bottom of the trigger guard, so it is not in a very visible location.

I have used liguid flitz to remove light scratches on stainless guns. The more you rub though the shiner it will get. I guessing it already has the somewhat shiny finish & not bead blast.

Yeah, Flitz would make it too shiny. Plus, if the scratches are very deep, I doubt that Flitz would even remove them - it appears to be a very fine abrasive polish. I need something that will replicate the factory finished grain of the metal. The Grey pads work pretty well for Ruger's stainless finish.

I use a coarse buffing compound on a soft, slow wheel. Can you feel the scratches with your fingernail?

Here is the thread with my cred:

Weekend project

Depends on the original finish. Is it matte stainless or regular smooth finish. Also depends on the extent of the scratch.

On smooth stainless I use a series of wet dry sand paper.

220 for really deep scratches

320-400 for not so deep

400 to 600 for fine scratches

1000+ for final finish or very light scratches

Always start with the least aggressive method. If it doesn't work use coarser and then after it is remove follow up with finer and finer, Just like wood. You can go cross grain and then finish with grain.

Ever polish car headlight lens?

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Still Running Against the Wind

I suggest a trip to the auto parts store. Maybe one that specializes in servicing body shops. In the paint dept., they should have a selection of 3M sanding pads from super fine to scary. I believe that the gray one is a medium (I use gray for stock finishing) but I think there is a white one that is finer. You can always go to a more coarse pad but it is a lot of extra work to fix the divot if you get to aggressive to start with. HTH GB

If it is going to be an EDC...don't mess with it! If you are not experienced in removing scratches and blending finishes you'll just make it worse(voice of experience). I found a local gunny who removed all of the scratches and restored the original finish (686) for 75 bucks.

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"GUNS UP"