I am looking for a basic punch set to add to my limited tool collection for repairing mainly Smith revolvers. The first project is to replace the hammer on a 586 and may need to switch out the sear and stirrup, may tackle a hammer nose in the future. I have disassembled a couple of revolvers down to the trigger, not comfortable with that yet, but have the Jerry Kuhnhausen manual for reference. I welcome input and advice for a novice.

Starrett, last your life time and several others and as good as it gets.
http://tinyurl.com/qzwrcf3

I agree - the Starrett is the way to go! While they are not cheap they are worth the extra coin IMHO. You can also get a used Starrett set on Fleebay if you would like to save a few bucks. They may need some touching up on the nose, but that is easily done. Sometimes Zoro has a big sale and you can buy them new for up to 20% - 25% off

Stay away from the Chinese Harbor Freight tools and even the Grace sets that Midway & Brownells sell are not the quality of the Starrett's.

I appreciate the info. Would it be best to purchase that recommended set or a couple of individual smaller ones. Also, would you recommend roll pin punches? I am just trying to put together some basic tools. Thanks in advance.

Start with the complete set. You would be surprised what you end up using some of the bigger ones for (rivet stake, etc then expand individually as you require them for your work.

Get some extra small ones. Then use a dremel to carefully put a little cup in the tip for driving out domed pins

My generic punches are Proto. Good quality for not a lot of $. Specialty punches, cup tips etc, are Brownells. They've been accumulated over the yrs on an as needed basis.

The Protos I like are these: Punches | MSCDirect.com

The set that S&W sold me at armorer's school came with three punches, two small pin punches and a roll pin punch. A large selection is not required. I was going to offer the brand name, but the punches are not marked in any way . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Roll pin punches are nice to have (I do have a set) but certainly NOT a necessity. They just give you a better "grip" on the pin and holds the punch a little better so it is less likely to slip. If you are not a clumsy kind of guy, you should be OK with the standard Starrett punch set in the Red plastic circular holder OR in the pouch (slightly less expensive). If you find an old vintage set on Fleebay you may get one in a wooden block - very cool and nostalgic. If you have the extra coin, get a roll pin set as well. - what the heck!

I bought a set of Brownells punches a while back and was very disappointed in their quality. I sent them back the very next day and bought the Starrett. I won't own sub-quality tools.

When you use the punches often, they will get marred, scratched, dented etc. and will need to be re-faced at some point. You can use a belt grinder to sharpen them up and can also use a bench grinder but the bench grinder is harder to keep them perfectly straight and even. DO NOT heat the tips up to the point where they turn color or you will destroy their temper qualities. The best way to re-surface the tips is by hand because you can't
screw them up!

I will also buy loose (incomplete sets or just a single punch) for bargain prices when they are for sale at a garage sale just so I have some extras around for custom shaping. There are times when I need to grind a 1/16" punch into a smaller size one to do something specific. If it's a "loosie" that I paid .50 cents for I don't care about ruing it. I have also ground them into different tools and re-tempered them after bending and grinding. I enjoy learning about heat treating and have started to play with it while making some custom tools. If I ruin a cheap loosie - who cares.....

A Starrett Punch Set will last yo the rest of your life and you can put them in your will as well. Assuming of course you don't use them as paint can openers or miniature pry bars.

The hard part is find one smaller than 1/16. Many common S&W pins are actually smaller than the smallest punch found in most sets.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

EXACTLY - and that is why I buy loose quality punches at Garage sales when available. I custom grind and bend them as needed and I don't feel bad because my original Starrett Set never gets ruined. I have ground a few Starrett "loose punches" to 3/64" for pins smaller than the smallest 1/16" punch (smallest one in the set) for firearms use. If and when they get worn out I just chuck 'em and start with another one. As precise as I try to be grinding one down by hand with a belt grinder it never comes out 100% perfect but moe than good enough to punch out a bunch of pins.

Finding punches smaller than 1/16" is not an easy task unless you have access to a watchmakers supply or a machinists supply. The average retailer and even wholesaler won't carry less than 1/16" - at least it's been my experience. It's just easier to make one in a couple of minutes.

GUNSMITH REPLACEABLE PIN PUNCH SET | Brownells

For those looking for 3/64" punch.

Just thinking out loud here, but that's probably why they'll sell you the toolkit if you go to armorer's school . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I've got a variety of USA made punches (Mayhew, Western Forge, Proto, etc.), but I swallowed hard and bought a Starrett set several years ago, and they really are a great quality set. Buy once, cry once...

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NRA Life Member