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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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  #1  
Old 03-11-2016, 12:26 AM
otho11 otho11 is offline
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Can someone please possibly explain how this damage was caused and what I can do to prevent it? Image is attached. That particular area is shinier than the rest.

The revolver was oiled and kept indoors with low humidity.

Thank you
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Last edited by otho11; 03-11-2016 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:39 AM
walter o walter o is offline
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You are probably the second owner . the previous had rubber grips on it and moisture under the grip could not escape and caused the pit .It may have been polished up and did not show.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:43 AM
otho11 otho11 is offline
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I am the second owner and the previous rubber grips were replaced. Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:51 PM
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It is VERY TRUE that Pachmeyer Grips (specifically) have caused damage to two of my firearms as well over the years. Fortunately I discovered it before anything major occurred. Not only do Pachmeyer's not allow moisture to escape, but Pachmeyer's have a steel insert that has a bad habit of cutting through the rubber, contacting the gun and rusting away or scratching the finish up.

I have not used Pachmeyer grips in 25 years and if one must use rubber style grips, Uncle Mikes are far superior and contain NO metal inserts to cause havoc.

Now that I have said that - and while not nearly as bad as Pachmeyer's, wood and other materials can also trap moisture and allow the guns grip frame to start rusting and pitting. Every single time I clean a gun the grips come off! Not only is it good to see what is happening underneath the grips, but it's also good to clean and lightly lubricate the metal with a light coat of wood, rubber and synthetic friendly oil/protectant. Another reason I use Rig #2 Oil. It does NOT harm wood, rubber, polymer, or any other material common to guns and prevents rust from starting. I STILL check anyway.

Last edited by chief38; 03-11-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:58 PM
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Oh, and by the way, once in a while I also remove rifle and shotgun stocks to inspect, clean and lubricate the metal under the wood. AGAIN, use NO oil or chemical that remains wet or is hurtful to wood or synthetic. The stuff I use evaporates before reassembly, leaves protection behind and protects metal without harm or softening of wood. I do not do this often, just every once in a while but definitely when caught in a downpour while Hunting or shooting Sporting Clays.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:27 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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An excellent method of preventing rust and pitting under any kind of grips is to apply a medium heavy coat of wax and just let it dry for 20 minutes. Don't wipe it off.

Once it's dry remount the grips. The wax will seal the metal and prevent corrosion and won't run off the metal or soak in wood like oils and greases will.

Good waxes to use are Johnson's Paste Wax in big yellow cans at hardware and Walmart stores, or the fine Renaissance Museum Wax available from Brownell's.

Note that car wax is NOT suitable for this purpose.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:39 PM
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I don't know of any grips, wood or rubber, that cover the area that you are showing.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:55 PM
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This can happen on stainless guns too. I had a model 60 that pitted and rusted under the grips.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:03 AM
otho11 otho11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyo5 View Post
I don't know of any grips, wood or rubber, that cover the area that you are showing.
It had Bianchi hammer shroud grips when I bought it.

Is this damage something that can be repaired for a reasonable cost or better to leave as is?
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:51 AM
jack the toad jack the toad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otho11 View Post

Is this damage something that can be repaired for a reasonable cost or better to leave as is?
In my limited experience, the answer to your question (in order) is no and yes.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:42 AM
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Yes the damage could be repaired somewhat (the pits do not look too deep) but in order for you to have it look perfect the gun would have to be re-finished by bead blasting it after pit removal sanding. You could just work on the Sideplate, but then it would not match the rest of the finish. The rust itself can be removed rather easily with an oily bronze wool pad, but the pits would need additional sanding followed by re-finishing. You could call S&W and ask what they charge or you could do the entire gun yourself and while it may not match the Factory finish, at least it would be uniform all over - if you are good at this sort of thing of course.

If that were mine I'd probably give it a shot myself and if I still wasn't happy I'd send it off to Smith for a professional re-finishing.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyo5 View Post
I don't know of any grips, wood or rubber, that cover the area that you are showing.
In addition to the grips the OP described that came with the pistol when he bought it, there are others. My CT laser grips (it looks like that's what's on his pistol now) cover that area on my 60-14.
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