I installed the Miculek Spring kit into my Model 19-3 Snub. The result is a great trigger job for under $20. Very nice and balanced result, I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but believe it is about 8 lbs - feels much better than the factory. I ran 100 rounds through it yesterday at the range - no light strikes using Winchester and Sellier & Bellot primers. See the link as Jerry explains the installation.

Note: Jerry modifies the main spring screw to get a very light pull, I did not. You don't have to - he was going for a 7.5 lb pull - that is very light.

The conventional wisdom is - if your revolver is a defensive weapon keep the factory springs in.

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Rhodesia 1977 - 78

"The conventional wisdom is - if your revolver is a defensive weapon keep the factory springs in."

I definitely agree with that.

USPSA & Steel Challenge shooters go as light as 6 lbs. They shoot Federal
primers and some guys double seat to ensure they bottom out in the pocket.


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Quite true, but it's a whole lot more than spring work to get to that light a trigger with reliable ignition.

Very true. A lot send their guns to Apex.


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I have replaced springs in several S&W 44's but only the trigger return spring.
This lightens both trigger pulls but leaves the hammer fall alone.
I used to play with the main spring screw but learned the hard way that can be foolish.
I screw them all the way in now.
Tightly in magnum revolvers.
I don't compete where double action shooting is a thing but do practice some defensive shooting.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"

Just a bit of education, the part is called the rebound slide and the spring the rebound slide spring. Having been to the S&W revolver armorer's course, I have the proper tool for removing and reinstalling the rebound slide but I like that ball pen idea for installation. Gonna, have to try it!
As for changing to an aftermarket spring, I don't do it. According to the Armorer's Manual, "A primary Smith & Wesson safety device consists of 3components: the hammer, rebound slide and the 17-coil rebound slide spring. This feature is designed to prevent firing from a falling hammer unless the trigger is held back." The manual goes on to say, "Do not alter the spring or install springs not authorized by Smith & Wesson." Take it for what it's worth but, installing a lighter aftermarket spring could cause a safety problem.

I'm not a fan of the Miculek spring kit, he just "recurves" the main spring. Does not seem like a real precise way to do things to me.

I prefer to use Wolff reduced power main springs for my range-only guns, they are designed for a specific strength, not a cobbled up stock piece. Their full power spring will smooth out the pull without lightening the hammer fall.

I have also found that just putting in a 14# rebound spring makes the trigger pull much lighter.

I don't understand. How can a lighter rebound slide spring cause a safety problem?

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Centennial Every Day

By not pushing the hammer blocking slide up in time to prevent it contacting the firing pin in the case
(as quoted above from the armorers manual) of a push-off or other hammer fall with the trigger not being pulled all the way back?
Sorry I am not more eloquent and don't know all the proper S&W jargon.
Having said all that, I have put in the 13 and 14 lb springs and all the trigger and hammer functions seem normal.
I do carefully and lightly lube all those moving surfaces and have polished a couple (but not the sear surfaces).
I know (some of) my limitations.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"