Sticky Cylinder

[younggun22]

Need some help here guys as I am running out of ideas.

I have a cylinder that is tough to open. It will open but takes a good amount of pressure and definitely isn't the norm. The ejector rod is tight and not bent, I've cleaned under the star, I've stripped the whole gun and cleaned it for good measure as well, the screws are in the right spot.

Am I missing something? Is there something else I should check? Any help is appreciated.

 

[arjay]

Check the catch in the barrel lug.I have one that gets stiff when the gun sits for awhile

 

[M29since14]

Sideplate screws in wrong place? Trade places of the two screws at the bottom of the sideplate and see if that helps. On a newer revolver with the spring-loaded plunger in the yoke retaining screw, don't try this - the screws cannot be traded around.

 

[Mike in Reedley]

You don't say which model it is, which makes it more of a guessing game. If it's an older model that doesn't have the spring/indent screw holding the yoke in place, try backing off that screw a turn and see if that solves your problem. If it does and you've already tried switching screws, then you need to fill a little off the tip of that screw.

 

[younggun22]

It's a model 10-5 so not real new. I checked the sideplate screws initially as well and that's not the problem either.

It might be the barrel lug. I have checked that yet. I'll let you guys know


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[younggun22]

Checked the lug and that's not the case. I'm running out of ideas any other suggestions are welcome


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[lebomm]

If loosening the yoke retaining screw helps, it isn't the length you need to relieve, but the diameter of the smooth area at the end of the shank.
At least, that was my experience.

Larry

 

[younggun22]

The screw length isn't the problem here. It also seems that the center pin might be too long. I also noticed that it is tougher to open on some chambers than others


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[BradLH]

Is the end of the bolt flush, or nearly flush, with the recoil plate when the thumb piece is pushed forward. If not there may be some crud in the thumb piece slot or between the bolt and frame.

 

[younggun22]

Is the end of the bolt flush, or nearly flush, with the recoil plate when the thumb piece is pushed forward. If not there may be some crud in the thumb piece slot or between the bolt and frame.

yes its flush. I stripped the gun for a detail cleaning to see if it solved the problem. It didnt unfortunately.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

A couple of things may be happening. 1, Is the extractor rod screwed up tight? 2, Bent extractor rod, spin the cylinder and see if you a noticable wobble? this can definately cause the cylinder to open and close hard. 3, Centerpin lenghth, if the center pin extends past the end of the extractor rod more that a few thousands when the cylinder is closed it will make it hard to close. 4, Using a yoke liner gauge, check or have checked the crane, to make sure it is not tweaked or bent. The yoke liner should run into the bolt hole with no resistance if the crane is straight. I am no expert, but these are the things I would look at with your situation.

 

[tomcatt51]

I also noticed that it is tougher to open on some chambers than others.

This usually indicates a bent extractor rod.

With the cylinder open, push the cylinder release forward and see if the bolt is flush with the recoil shield.

With the cylinder closed, push the cylinder release forward and look at the tip of the extractor rod. The center pin should protrude SLIGHTLY. .010" - .020" is enough.