Does anyone use Lubriplate FMO-350 AW Oil as a gun lube? I'm got some coming in, as I've heard it recommended for semiauto pistols, and I'd like to hear what actual users thought of it. I was able to get a decent price.

Along those lines, I'm a Ballistol user, I don't really mind the smell and I like the results (and the fact that it's non-toxic). I've read that Ballistol is primarily food-grade mineral oil, as is the Lubriplate. Any idea what else would be mixed in, to complete the Ballistol recipe?

The MSDS lists the additional ingredients, along with "mineral oil".

https://ballistol.com/wp-content/upl...Revision-9.pdf

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

IMHO there is NO ONE LUBRICANT good for ALL firearms as they all require different lubes. Caliber, design, weather, field conditions, etc all play a role in what lubricant you use.

For Military guns like an M1 Garand, Lubriplate Grease works great. For a .22 pistol I would never use that! I find in general the lighter the caliber the lighter and more viscous the oil needs to be. The Oil you asked about might be terrific for certain guns, but maybe not for all depending on the temps. and field conditions.

Some of my Fav's are:

RIG #2 Oil = very light
Remoil = very light
Birchwood Casey Synthetic Oil = more traditional gun oil weight
Rig +P Grease = a light grease for large caliber Auto's, Bolts and Shotgun hinges
Lubriplate Grease = Heavy for Military Rifles
Rig Universal = preservative

Everyone has their Fav's and their recommendations, these are only mine and what I've settled on after 50 years of shooting, hunting and competing. Ask ten people and you will get 10 different answers most likely........

I use FMO-350 AW Oil and have been satisfied with the results. I also use their FGL-1 on the rails. Physical and operational properties look good to me. I'm assuming you read Grant Cunningham's article like I did.
Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com

A spray can of Ballistol is mineral oil with two added chemicals that provide the propellant and cleaning power: propane and iso-hexane (white gasoline).
Until the propane and iso-hexane disperse, it is highly flammable. Once they are gone what you have left is mineral oil.


The fact that it works great and is convenient does not change that it is an expensive way to clean your gun with white gas and lube it with mineral oil. If you read the labels carefully, there are a few popular cleaners and lubes, and most of them work OK. The range of prices is huge, depending on packaging and "snake oil" promo.

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Science plus Art

Understood; I am in South Louisiana and have a lot of semiauto pistols. Mostly 9mm DA/SA, all metal framed, probably a 50/50 mix of steel and aluminum frames. I don't anticipate freezing, certainly not subzero conditions. I keep the majority of these guns indoors at all times.

I have a grease I'm satisfied with (the Mobil 1 I mentioned). i'm actually very satisfied with the Ballistol I use, but I was able to get a gallon of this oil for $30.

Regarding the Ballistol MSDS, it looks like it just lists mineral oil and propellants.

Here's what the site says...

I don't use the aerosol cans, I have the pump/spray bottles. You get a lot more, and I think use a lot less (I drizzle just a little onto a rag, or give a light squirt to saturate something). I RARELY give a full squirt.

I intend to refill the empty Ballistol bottle to use. It's the perfect size; I also will employ some oil bottles too.

Yep

that's what prompted me to look into this oil

Thanks for replying; how do you use the oil? Any cleaning, or just rubbing down afterwards?

Further info from the site I got this oil from...
SPECO Southern Parts and Engineering Company

So what I'm getting, is a "100% OEM compatible replacement" for Lubriplate FMO-350 AW Oil, described as having the same specs, $25 + shipping for a gallon.

I use mostly Ballistol and live in a low humidity environment. If I had to store any firearms for an extended length and lived in high humidity they would get cosmoline.

Cosmoline for Firearms - Cosmoline Grease, Wax, Rust Preventives & Remover

People tend to get carried away when it comes to the subject of gun oil and lubricants, just like they do when discussing which cleaner is best. There are really only a few things to test your lube against:

Is it waterproof?
Will it operate under extreme temperatures (hot and cold)?
Will it adversely effect any material the gun has such as wood or plastic?
Will its chemical properties change over time?

The only lube specifically designed for guns I know of that fails one of these tests is Frog Lube, which has reported to gum up under certain adverse conditions.

Beware too of using non-gun rated lubes just because you read on line that you can use them - or that you can combine certain things to make the world's wonder lube. If you use a product that isn't designed for firearm use, you put your firearm and self in danger, should it fail to work. I can assure you that if you use cooking oil and damage your firearm, the manufacture of both the firearm and the cooking oil are going to tell you to go pound sand should you try to hold them responsible. Also, all oil/lubricants have flashpoints at which they will ignite. Products designed for firearms are designed to be impervious to the heat firearms can generate.

Also be advised that all lubes will eventually succumb to the effects of gravity. How long that takes, depends on the viscosity of the lube. That's why you should recoat/relube periodically. As a case in point: people look at glass as a solid, stable material, yet glass used in buildings constricted centuries ago show the glass thinning at the top and thickening at the bottom. If glass can run, so will your oil/lubricant.

There's also an old saying that goes: if it rotates, use oil, if it slides, use grease. There's a lot of truth to that.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I agree with these points whole-heartedly. I've done Hoppes, Rem oil, Mobil 1 full synthetic, Breakfree CLP and Ballistol. In addition, I've done additional things for just external protection- letting both the CLP and Ballistol sit and dry, I've rubbed a blued pistol down with Mucilin (per my late dad's recommendation), and I now have a tub of Johnson's Paste wax for that. I've rubbed a parkerized HP down with vaseline and let it sit in the heat, and then wiped it down (it's now velvety smooth to the touch, instead of "dusty" feeling).
I cold-blued a slide on a rough pistol I'd gently filed and sanded the pits out of, then rubbed the external with a rag dampened with boiled linseed oil lightly, and let it cure.
Basically, all sorts of various remedies for both lube and preservation. Everything seems to work satisfactorily.

I've moved towards non-toxic stuff, since frankly, I have my collection because I like them, and I like to take one out and handle it. When I do, I clean and lube it. I figure that if I have over a dozen of them, I probably need to use something that won't come back and bite me later... I work in healthcare, and I've seen what some of these chemicals can do with prolonged exposure.
If there's something food-grade that works, then that's great for that cause.

Building the semi autos when I was at S&W we used what i believe was regular 30 wt motor oil, nothing special. Our goal as fitters was to build a gun, get it through the range and not have "repairs" which were guns that did not pass the final range test for a number of reasons from not feeding, slide stop not staying open etc. Any oil was applied and wiped off. The gun should function with a minimum of lubricant.

Ok, this oil arrived today. 1 gallon jug labelled as FMO-350 AW Oil Replacement from Southern Parts and Engineering Company. Clear, thicker and more viscous than Ballistol (but still thin enough to be drawn into a 20 ml syringe with a blunt tip 18 gauge needle). No smell.

I sent an email to them asking for a msds or more specific data, and explained my intended usage as a firearm lubricant. I will relay whatever they respond.
edited to add: prior to purchasing, I did already have the info I listed above, which lists it as an H1 lubricant, primarily white oil with approved additives. I'm hoping to find out what these additives are

If this ends up working as I hope, this will be a great bargain. The actual Lubriplate brand is quite pricy: 20 bucks for a spray can from their store, and someone marketing small kits of grease and oil for around that price. I got a gallon for that price, and already have found a grease I like to work in conjunction.

I realize it's the same price as plain ol' motor oil, but I like the fact that it is just as functional (if not better), and is listed as an H1 food-grade lubricant. That makes it safer to handle, and I like to handle my guns

another quick update- I received a response back with a MSDS and a remark that they had never thought of their product for firearms lubrication (this is not Lubriplate, but an equivalent produced by a smaller company).

The MSDS is identical to Lubriplate's.
link

I think I will wipe down a sample piece of steel and leave it outside (I'm in south Louisiana, pretty sure my environment will promote rust) to test the anti-rust properties.

it's certainly slick as heck, clean and no odor. MSDS states no toxic effects unless I breath it or squirt it in my eyes.

Keep us posted.

The thing that works well for me is Ballistol for cleaning and light lube. Red n Tacky Lucas grease for shotguns and 1911 slides and basically where heavier lube to stay put is needed. For all my 22's the use of a dry lubricant spray is needed. 22's will gum up with the dirty ammo powder very quick so its perfect for a lock lubricant to work well in that area.

Some claim that synthetic motor oil is unbeatable as a gun oil, but I have never tried it. I am still working on a pint of Shooter's Choice FP-10 gun lubricant I've had for over 10 years, and most of it still remains in the bottle.

A brief update...

I have some squirt cans of Ballistol (16 oz metal bottles), one was empty for practical purposes. I refilled it with this oil, and it seems to feel about the same as the ballistol, and now smells like it. Given the usage, I think it will suffice as that.

Since I'm just experimenting around with this, I also did a little searching, and came across "choji oil". Used to wipe down katanas. Mineral oil and clove oil. Seems like it would be acceptable to use on pistols, so I put a couple drops of clove oil in this stuff (the basic premise is really just to give it a smell). It does make using this as an oil a bit more pleasant, scent-wise. Shouldn't hurt anything.

I use a mix of synthetic motor oil and synthetic automatic transmission fluid. So in my case 80% 20w-50 motor oil and 20% transmission fluid. Been working well for me for the past 40 years.

I still have and use Lubriplate my dad brought from the Korean war! Works like a champ too!

I would just use USP white mineral oil. The Hoppe's #9 lubricating oil is straight "industrial grade"(dirty) mineral oil and countless people have used it for decades and find it adequate. The USP stuff is cheaper and better.

How is the test going?

I have been using nothing but CLP for the last 5 years in my duty guns and CCW guns. They have been exposed to rain and sweat in the Texas weather. None have rusted and all have functioned flawless. One step cleaning is easy.

Let's get something clear about lubricants for firearms. Not saying that one brand/type or another might not out-perform another in some specific aspect or application, but for the most part any ol' oil or grease, properly applied and maintained, will do.

The cost of one product in no way indicates that a less-expensive product is inferior, or a more-expensive one is superior. I once made the acquaintance of a gunsmith who, rightfully so, was widely -- as in nationally -- recognized as one of the best. Like anyone else, he was in business to make a buck, and one thing he did was purchase a couple of barrels of grease at a bargain price, then load it in to 2 oz. jars priced at, as I recall, $8.95 apiece and labelled to indicate that it was the be-all to end-all for gun lubrication. For years, he sold a wad of the stuff by mail and at gun shows and trust me, he chuckled on the way to the bank every day. Often his only profit from a 2-day weekend show came not from sales of guns and services but from sales of the wonder-grease -- which was nothing but a lube anyone could by a year's supply of for a few bucks at Walmart or Auto Zone.

I am not saying don't try different products, but be sensible about it. Try a bit and see what it does for you, and if what it does is any better than what Generic Brand X does. Just don't swallow the hype -- NOTHING will protect/lube/clean your gun sufficiently in ALL conditions, but just about anything will work if you pay attention to your gun as you should. Regardless of what you use, your gun will get dirty if you shoot it, it will rust of you ignore it, and it will wear more rapidly if you don't keep it lubed. No product will eliminate those facts.

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Pisgah

I experimented with Frog Lube a while ago and I can tell you that it is the devils brew. I followed the instructions and detail stripped and degreased the guns. I heated them with a hair drier and applied the glue..er, lube then wiped it off. It started out well and I thought that the Frog Lube was going to be my new wonder lube. I especially liked the fact that it was dry on the gun. The problem came when the gun was fired and not cleaned right away. The stuff turned to a maple syrup consistency then dried to something akin to Elmer's Glue. I actually had to drive the trigger of a 1911 out of the frame with a brass punch. This stuff is horrible! Needless to say it ended up in the trash. At least it won't pollute the land fill. I am now experimenting with MPro7 at the suggestion of an Army friend who used it Afghanistan. So far it's working great. The CLP reminds me of Break Free and the gun cleaner does a great job getting those stubborn black rings off of the face of revolver cylinders.

Piscah speaks the truth. Some people say the Lucas gun grease that ships with new Sigs is the same as their marine wheel grease, and if you compare both MSDS's it appears that it's true - except one is way more expensive.

My feeling is that a can of 3-in-One (the name refers to "Clean, Lubricate, and Protect") household oil will do anything that ordinarily needs to be done in the way of gun lubrication and protection. You can certainly pay more for other similar products if you wish, but the benefits will be minimal. Outlandish product claims to justify high prices are all part of the sales game. The women's cosmetics business was based on it. To wit, regarding gun products - Plain old Johnson's Paste Wax is every bit the equal of the much-touted Ren-Wax, except it's about 5% of the Ren-Wax price.

Regarding gun cleaning, it's difficult to beat mineral spirits or a can of aerosol spray carb cleaner for that purpose.

I'm still using Lubriplate on my guns that my dad brought home from the Korean war! Works on my guns!

So far, the test is going very well. Everything is staying very well oiled. It is neither drying up or running off. I have shot a couple pistols a good bit and just wipe them down afterwards, they look clean and are still very slick. Nothing looks the worse for wear or storage... I've wiped a couple down and just put them away in boxes, and they still have a sheen when I take them out.

What seems to really be encouraging, is that there is both zero gumming, and that no matter how much I wipe something down with a dry rag (or paper towel), I can't remove the base coating. Takes something as strong as a can of brake cleaner (and a pretty good amount of it) to remove.

It seems to spread over the metal, without running, if that makes sense.

This definitely is a keeper in my book.

Just updating this, it's been over a year since the last post...

This stuff works just fine, the guns have had no issues, the pistols I haven't shot much remain clean and slick (no gumming up). Heck, the rails still look wet on a couple I haven't shot since starting this.

As for the ones I do shoot a lot, everything is just peachy with them too. No buildup of crud, just doing a minimal wipedown with a rag and then putting a drop or two on again. I'm only shooting FMJ instead of lead, so I don't use a bore brush a lot, just shove a patch down a few times until it's clean. No accuracy or function issues as of yet.

I still have a ton. I've topped off one can of empty Ballistol since I've started this.

Hopefully, someone can make use of this to save a couple bucks