I recently acquired a NOS hammer with beautiful case coloring for my 17-3 . Will the proper use of hammer shims prevent the hammer rubbing against the frame & wearing the case color off ? If so any shims in particular ?
Thanks !
Thanks !
Hammer Shims ?
- Thread starter Empe
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I remember hammer and trigger shims being available to prevent friction drag and marks. I forget who made them but I think I got them from Brownell's. They were effective as I recall.
The bosses at the base of the hammer stud and the on the sideplate will protect the finish on the hammer. There is no need to shim these contact points if they were properly fit by the factory in the first place.
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iPac
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Thanks for the confirmation!
I was going to say a properly built gun should be just fine without shims. Using them would be for special purposes, but if you have a hammer rubbing, that could be a solution.
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Burrs inside the frame and side plate edges cause most of the problems with hammer and trigger scrapes. If you do end up needing shims check out triggershims.com
Protocall_Design
Vendor
I have found that sometimes the hammer and/or trigger pins in the frame are not exactly perpendicular. Sometimes just a very small tweak in the right direction will set things right.
Upon further thought I THINK those shims were made by Powers.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Ron Power first made hammer and trigger (and endshake) shims. Now triggershims.com makes them as well.
Nemo288
Member
+1 on triggershims.com
I have obtained hammer and endshake shims from them for S&W, Ruger, and Dan Wesson.
Also lever shims for Marlin and Winchester.
They did not have any for the Dan Wesson but myself and one other guy requested them and they made them up.
They are nice folks to work with. Kind of a mom and pop store.
I have obtained hammer and endshake shims from them for S&W, Ruger, and Dan Wesson.
Also lever shims for Marlin and Winchester.
They did not have any for the Dan Wesson but myself and one other guy requested them and they made them up.
They are nice folks to work with. Kind of a mom and pop store.
Toolguy, how would you go about bringing the hammer stud back to perpendicular?
Tapping or pressure?
thanks,
Stu
Tapping or pressure?
thanks,
Stu
Protocall_Design
Vendor
I made a 5/16" diam. x 6" long steel bar with a hole drilled in each end on the lathe. That way the hole is exactly centered and exactly parallel to the rod. The holes are a .001 slip fit with a chamfer at the opening, one for the hammer and one for the trigger stud.
In use, if the stud is slightly off, it's easy to see once the 6" rod is on there. Then you can use the rod to gently move it in the desired direction. Also, you can use a small square from the inside of the frame to the rod, but I don't find that to be needed for myself. I don't like hammering on parts, as it can deform them and you don't have good control over how much you move them.
In use, if the stud is slightly off, it's easy to see once the 6" rod is on there. Then you can use the rod to gently move it in the desired direction. Also, you can use a small square from the inside of the frame to the rod, but I don't find that to be needed for myself. I don't like hammering on parts, as it can deform them and you don't have good control over how much you move them.
Big thanks Toolguy, that should work.
Stu
Stu
