Change caliber markings on barrel

I am interested in making a .327 Federal Magnum "616" but not sure how to re-stamp the caliber markings on the barrel. I've heard of pantographs, laser etching, stamp holding fixtures, CNC engraving and others. What is the best method to get new caliber markings on the barrel that is close to the original markings? Can you recommend someone that does this?

You might want to put a price ceiling on what you're willing to spend on the marking. The "best" might be more than the gun is worth.

Most folks use 1/16 " stamps.

Andy Horvath uses metal stamps in some kind of holder so they stay straight. The mistake I made was on the size on the last he did for me. I wanted the bigger letters. Maybe check with a jeweler that engraves. Larry

Try a trophy show.

Clark in Louisiana engraves just about everything they work on.
My 10/22 has the bolt, and the barrel custom engraved.

In this day and age, with a computer, you can engrave just about anything,,,
Get creative with the font!!

Stamping the new info is probably not as difficult as filling in the original roll markings to get a "clean pallet" to work with.

I would think if you are looking for professional looking results I'd contact one of the commercial re-finishers and send it to them if they are willing to do it.

The original roll mark is finished/polished off.

Barrel markings are roll stamped. Stamping is the only way to reproduce a factory looking caliber marking, period.

Check with custom pistol smiths that restore S&Ws. They'll have to have the reproduction roll stamps. Whether they have a 32 cal roll stamp is the next question. If you have a roll stamp made, perhaps a shop that can do roll stamping will roll it for you if you let him keep the stamp.

And you can send others his way who are doing a 32 conversion.

Start with big shops like Hamilton Bowen: + Bowen Classic Arms + Home

If they don't they'll likely know others that might.

It'll be worth it to have your gun look factory. Don't get talked out of it.

I have used stamps in a stamp holder (from Brownells) which work quite well. But you'll need to practice a lot. Or find a smith that already knows how to do it. But the S&W roll mark is a long one: 32 S&W LONG CTG if I recall correctly, so a roll stamp is the best.

Maybe you should have S&W do the blue refinish. They'll still refinish any gun with a Model # stamped on it, (post 1957). If it needs a caliber marking they'll re-roll it.

If you go the Roll Marking Die route and go out and have one made up special,,be sure to have someone aboard first that has agreed to do the actual imprinting work with the die.
With that, you'll need from that 'smith the dimensions of his/her machine for the die that will fit it.
Bore size, key slot, max dia and width,,ect.

Some use a commercial roll die marking machine,,others use anything from the set up on a lathe or mill to an entirely home made rig.

Google up roll marking dies,,there are plenty of places that will make you a die to your specs both lettering and the die itself. All special order of course and quoted once specs are known.
It won't be an inexpensive proposition as Hondo says but the results are 'right' if everything is done correctly from start to finish.

Getting bbl surface flat and cleared of the old markings is also very important. It takes some skill to do that too. Simply buffing them out will leave a hollowed out area in the otherwise perfectly straight flat surface and will stand out terribly once done.

A new marking can be put back by hand engraving too. But the engraver must understand you are looking to copy the look of the roll die impression and not wanting any sort of hand engraved look to it. Not all are will to do that type of work.
Another instance where the best compliment to the engravers work would be none at all,,restoration is like that.

In regards to the OP's question, how would you fill the original markings before stamping new stuff on barrel?
Steve

Tig welding. But it's unnecessary and not recommended.

S.B. said:

In regards to the OP's question, how would you fill the original markings before stamping new stuff on barrel?
Steve

Click to expand...

Carefully peen in the old markings closed using the surrounding material. It's not a simple case of wacking the edges down to close up the markings. The surrounding metal has to be actually pushed toward the stamping with the use of various punches and hammer blows.
It's a rather delicate process so as not to ruin the surface or distort it, leave it as flat as possible before polishing and yet still be able to move metal around in a cold state.

If the original markings are left with their upset/dimpled metal surrounding them from the marking process,,all the better.
That's material that can be used and pushed back into place..

Before starting, use a scribe to scratch out the markings of any debris, dried oil, dirt, ect. You don't want that trapped in the new surface.

After the careful use of punches and hammer, the area is smoothed and contoured to match the surrounding bbl (or what ever part you are working on) so as not to leave a hollow in that area.

Here's a Winchester 92 frame with a hand stamped name on the right side lower front edge.
The owner asked if I could remove the hand stamping, keep the surface flat, and also return the repaired surface to match the patina finish of the rest of the frame.


Stamped initials and name in frame (Name was stamped 'upside down' originally for some reason)


Name peened out with punches and hammer. Bright letters show in patina of frame as the letters were cleared of dirt & debris, dried oil, ect w/a scribe before the work so as not to trap the gunk in the surface.




Area that was peened now flat polished (rough)



Final polished ready for a Patina finish to match up to the rest of the frame area surrounding it.
** If it were a surface for remarking w/a roll die,,it would be ready at this point **



Some patina finish. Nearly complete, needs a bit more work yet but nearly there.
Blue, brown and grey colors are worked in. Surface is lightly pitted where needed and suitibly 'worn' at the edges.
(Colors are off abit from reality picture to picture, floresent shop lights at work , not good for fotog.,,sorry for the fuzzy image,,I flinched!)

2152hq,

Awesome work!

Very deep stampings can sometimes leave a bit of a seam as metal is peened to 'flow' into the cavity.

The caliber markings have been removed. I know everyone will think I did a hack job, but it came out well. Can't tell there was stamping on that side of the barrel. I didn't think I could get anyone to roll stamp the new caliber markings because it was a factory only thing. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to contact a custom builder that may have a roll die already made for the .327 fed mag.

I'll bet it looks just fine.

Especially if you used crocus cloth like a shoe shine rag on that side of the barrel to remove any flatness created and maintain/regain barrel roundness.

Once you do that, polish the area and sight down the barrel. If not round, light reflection will let you see it.

Jewelers and trophy shops seldom have FFLs and will most likely refuse the job.

Veritas Machining can do it for you.

Thanks TAROMAN for the tip on Veritas Machining. They are about 2 hours from me here in Michigan. Will pay a visit to them next week. Looks like they can do what I'm looking for.

Keep us posted as to how the job turns out.

Harbor Freight sells steel stamps!

In the op you mention Project 616, a subject with which I have some experience. When I had to have a barrel, I got a stainless Model 617 barrel that was factory marked with a laser. When I had Delta Gun rebore the barrel, either he had it cleaned off and re-marked, or more likely when Andy built the gun, he did the laser marking as well... since his name is on it, that is the more likely scenario.

Froggie

Great looking 616, I hope mine turns out that nice. I am using a 6" barrel from a no dash 617 so it has roll stamped markings on the other side. Will need something similar for the caliber markings. I think Veritas can do it so it looks close to the original stamps. Will find out in a couple of months.