686-6 Fix Firing Pin Bushing that Sticks Out

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I am trying to figure out if there is any way I can fix an issue I am having with my 686-6. The firing pin bushing is not flush with the frame and sticks out (<1mm). The gun functions fine, and has about 6k rounds through it now but unfortunately, this problem causes an indent in any brass I fire in this revolver. Over time, the brass becomes harder to cleanly seat primers into.

I know this part is pressed into place and staked, but does anyone know of a decent way to address this issue? If all else fails, I can send it in to S&W, but I'd like to fix it myself if possible.

I figured I'd at least ask around before giving up or doing anything stupid.

Thanks.
 
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Thanks for the replies. It's not binding up the gun or anything, just doing damage to brass over time.

I figured the answer was going to be to send it in, but I wanted to her if there were other options or not. I'm fairly capable working on my own stuff and the last tim I sent this one to smith, they had it for 6 weeks haha.

When I bought it new it had a host of issues. I should have rejected the transfer but I was impatient. Sent it in and they addressed all of the issues, but I failed to notice this until after i got it back.

Things they have already done:
- Recut crown
- New ejector star
- New cylinder
- New rear sight assembly
- Fixed gouge in recoil shield
- New ejector rod

Thing they declined to fix:
- crooked top strap (makes barrel look clocked, but it is actually the top strap). They claim it is in spec.
- Small amount of hammer rub. (fixed myself with shims)

This was my first revolver and it certainly taught me to be more picky on my inspections before accepting a transfer haha.
 
If the bushing is above the level of the breechface around it's (the bushing) perimeter, just inside the staking indent, this would be abnormal. (the outside edge of the bushing should be even with the breechface)

However, if you look at the actual bushing itself at an oblique angle with a magnifier, the surface of the currently used bushing is not perfectly flat with respect to the breechface, but very slightly raised at the point of the firing pin hole. The bottom line is though, the installed bushing should not be deforming your brass, and may not be installed properly.

Perhaps you could contact Customer Service for an opinion, or send them some close up photographs. 1-800-331-0852
 
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To me that's an issue.....

Thanks for the replies. It's not binding up the gun or anything, just doing damage to brass over time.

But it ain't right and a gun shouldn't damage the brass from friction. Maybe in other ways, yeah, but not rubbing on the recoil plate. I reload my brass and hope to get some life out of them before they get 'tired'. Especially with not so heavy loads.
 
Back about 30 years ago, when the M modification was initiated by Smith, a lot of police armorers were provided tools, parts and instructions on replacing the bushing and hammer nose. These tools were specialized tools made to insert a new bushing and stake it in place. I would guess that there are not too many of us left with those tools to install and stake the bushing.
I would guess that since you are shooting magnum ammo that it is not a matter of the bushing not being seated, but it is too high.
The instructions given to us was that the new bushing should be flush or just above the frame. We were given a file to file the bushing flush with the frame shield. My guess is that this step was not done.

If you feel confident enough, carefully file the bushing flush with the frame area surrounding the bushing. Otherwise, send it back to Smith.
 
If you feel confident enough, carefully file the bushing flush with the frame area surrounding the bushing. Otherwise, send it back to Smith.

Thank you kindly for the post. It is exactly the type of discussion I was hoping to have.

Before posting, I was thinking about either attempting to tap it down with a wooden dowel or filing it down a bit, but I was hoping someone with more experience than me could point me toward the proper step to take.

I get that I could just send it in, but since I like to tinker and have a decent amount of experience working on my own firearms, I thought it would be more fun to learn about what it would take to fix it properly and give it a go if it was something I think I am capable of.

It's really not the end of the world. The gun runs fine and my brass isn't being damaged to the point that it is drastically reducing case life, I just figured I'd investigate fixing it myself. It's so minor that it doesn't really seem worth it to send it in and wait 4-6 weeks for S&W to fix it haha.
 
Thank you kindly for the post. It is exactly the type of discussion I was hoping to have.

Before posting, I was thinking about either attempting to tap it down with a wooden dowel or filing it down a bit, but I was hoping someone with more experience than me could point me toward the proper step to take.

I get that I could just send it in, but since I like to tinker and have a decent amount of experience working on my own firearms, I thought it would be more fun to learn about what it would take to fix it properly and give it a go if it was something I think I am capable of.

Please let us know when you fix it and test fire, so we will know how well it worked.

It's really not the end of the world. The gun runs fine and my brass isn't being damaged to the point that it is drastically reducing case life, I just figured I'd investigate fixing it myself. It's so minor that it doesn't really seem worth it to send it in and wait 4-6 weeks for S&W to fix it haha.

Please let us know when, or if, you file it and how it works when test fired. Pictures would be good too.
 
The third photo posted of the bushing shows that it is not in straight.

The one half is high while the half furthest from the camera is below the surface.

I think the pounding on the bushing done by firing the cartridges would have seated it deeper if it was going to budge but since it's seated crooked I'd send it to S&W and not file or stone it down.
 
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