Seems like a lengthy wait time for a 30 minute job.
Carter
Carter
686-1 M stamped frame hammer bushing
- Thread starter tony wb
- Start date
I would turn it straight up with a small blade screwdriver, then put some LocTite 290 wicking grade around the stake so it sucks in around the perimeter. Let it sit for a day with the barrel pointing up, and you're good to go. Mop up any excess with a Q tip once it starts to come out the back.
The proper way to fix this is to send it back to the factory for a new bushing. This is a way to make the gun usable until snipe hunting season is over and the factory has time to work on it.
The proper way to fix this is to send it back to the factory for a new bushing. This is a way to make the gun usable until snipe hunting season is over and the factory has time to work on it.
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I appreciate all the responses, I thought the same thing when he said “hunting season “ and mentioned “since my gun is so old” as reasons why it would take too long. I’ll probably call back again for a second conversation with SW.
As far as the glue, would it be better to take the side plate off first to catch any excess? Thanks guys
As far as the glue, would it be better to take the side plate off first to catch any excess? Thanks guys
That would be a good idea.
Spoke to a lady who’s been at SW for two years ”very nice” said it’s first come, first serve” no guarantee things will slow down in the future. Said there’s only three or four experienced armorers in the Performance Center, and they are extremely busy with mods, engravings, old gun repairs, etc…and it could take a few months.
Any ideas why my bushing is so loose? I was wondering if they use the same bushing again with a different sleeve around it, or does it require a new bushing?
Hope I’m not boreing you guys.
Any ideas why my bushing is so loose? I was wondering if they use the same bushing again with a different sleeve around it, or does it require a new bushing?
Hope I’m not boreing you guys.
Since that bushing is loose, they would probably use a new one.
I can literally tap the gun against my hand and make the bushing rotate. I’ve been reading reviews on the 290 Loctite. I suppose it would void the warranty, but it looks like some good stuff. I tried to get the side plate off to see if I can catch the excess properly , but she’s on there good.
Well, after much research, and observations on my gun, It seems the hammer nose has been beating the bushing to death. If the hammer nose is all the way through the bushing, it’s tight—no movement.Looks like it will need some filing on the nose to provide a little wiggle room when the hammer is against the frame, and forward through the bushing. Guess I’ll try to explain all this to SW , and hope I can communicate the issues. Whoever did the mod, must not have checked for proper clearance of the hammer nose through the bushing. ��
The refit hammer nose bushings provide just enough clearance for the newly installed hammer nose. In fact, the new hammer nose essentially makes it's own clearance at the breechface opening during test firing after installation.
If you look closely at the bottom of the bushing (new, uninstalled) in the attached image, you can see a small "curtain" of material that has been left at the breechface side of the bushing cavity. (this can be seen in the photo of the new bushing in post 8)
The new L-frame refit bushing is, in fact, actually not bored all the way through. The cavity is approx. .065" diameter down to the bottom, and there is a "curtain" of material that is approx. .010" smaller left at the bottom. (breechface side of the cavity)
When the new bushing and hammer nose are installed, and the new hammer nose, which measures approx. .065", hits the bushing, it penetrates through this restricted opening, or curtain. This results in essentially a "press fit" clearance between the new bushing, and the end of the new hammer nose. This insures that there is no opportunity for the primer to be compromised because there is virtually no gauge between the diameter at the end of the hammer nose, and the opening it created in the bushing by impact. Any burrs created on the breechface side of the hammer nose bushing are cleaned up with a file or stone.
Another overlooked and minuscule design detail in the refit parts.
Carter
If you look closely at the bottom of the bushing (new, uninstalled) in the attached image, you can see a small "curtain" of material that has been left at the breechface side of the bushing cavity. (this can be seen in the photo of the new bushing in post 8)
The new L-frame refit bushing is, in fact, actually not bored all the way through. The cavity is approx. .065" diameter down to the bottom, and there is a "curtain" of material that is approx. .010" smaller left at the bottom. (breechface side of the cavity)
When the new bushing and hammer nose are installed, and the new hammer nose, which measures approx. .065", hits the bushing, it penetrates through this restricted opening, or curtain. This results in essentially a "press fit" clearance between the new bushing, and the end of the new hammer nose. This insures that there is no opportunity for the primer to be compromised because there is virtually no gauge between the diameter at the end of the hammer nose, and the opening it created in the bushing by impact. Any burrs created on the breechface side of the hammer nose bushing are cleaned up with a file or stone.
Another overlooked and minuscule design detail in the refit parts.
Carter
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That’s very informative, and interesting. Explains why I can wiggle the hammer nose bushing from the breech side with the hammer nose protruding partially through the breech face, but it’s tight when the hammer meets the frame. What’s your opinion on the 290 Loctite?
With the sideplate off, and hammer and hammer block out, there's nothing in the immediate area it can get into.
I called them back with the serial number, and SW said since it’s so old it isn’t under warranty, unless it is a part of the recall, and they also said my particular gun was modded at the factory. Guess it’s all in who you speak to. Such is life.
If the refit wasn't done properly, and it wasn't, the defect should be repaired by them at no cost.
Carter
Carter
Yes sir, I agree. She kept putting me on hold several times while she was getting answers from a supervisor. Keep coming back saying it isn’t under warranty. After I asked to speak to her supervisor, kept on hold another 7 minutes, she said the supervisor is too busy to talk, but “if” the mod was the issue it will be covered. This was what I kept trying to explain the whole 20 minutes I was in the phone.
Just waiting for the return label to come over. Hopefully it will make it into good armorer hands.
Just waiting for the return label to come over. Hopefully it will make it into good armorer hands.
