I am asking what is your favorite gun oil for your favorite guns. I'm wondering if there's some really good oil that doesn't gum up and has to be replaced every 2 months. I'm the proud new owner of a 5 screw pre 29 and I want to pass it down in 20 years in as good shape as it is today. any feed back would be appreciated

As someone who has actually done long term storage of guns for five years at a time, Remington oil is what I have only used . It does not gum up so it's safe to use on all actions.

Gunslick (semi liquid graphite lube), been using it since 1968 on a S&W Model 39.

I still have Hoppe's

Internal, LSA military lubricant. Exterior, Kelloggs #110 pure silicone applied with real lambswool. Treat a 6" square pad of wool with silicone, and wipe gun. No issues with either in 50+ years

I use weapon shield but not because I’ve tried other stuff and this works better. I started using it almost 10 years ago and have never had a reason to switch.

I also have rem-oil that I use occasionally too. Ren wax for wooden stocks

Full Synthetic motor oil (Quaker State or Valvoline).

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THROUGH 60+ YEARS OF SHOOTING, I HAVE READ COUNTLESS ARTICLES AND RANKINGS OF DIFFERENT LUBRICANTS. THE LATEST HIGH TECH SYNTHETIC GREASE, MIGHT BE JUST THE TICKET FOR SEMI AUTO RAILS AND BOLTS, ETC.......

BUT, FOR A NICE OLD REVOLVER LIKE YOURS, REGULAR CLEANING AND SPARINGLY APPLIED "3 IN 1 OIL" LUBRICANT, IS ALL YOU NEED......

WHATEVER YOU DO, KEEP WD-40 FAR AWAY FROM THAT REVOLVER ! ! !

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Ballistol is the way to go. You can read some very interesting things about it on their web site. How many other gun products are also good for your skin? It's been in use for over 100 years. That should tell you something.

Bore Tech gun oil.

Depends on my mood (or specific need) but most of the time Rig#2 Oil.

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FP10 or Mobil 1 synthetic.

Good old "3-in-1" or Mobil 1 synthetic oil. No kidding. Been using the stuff for many years . We ( shooters, gunsmiths, etc. ) once used Singer Sewing Machine oil.

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John

Breakfree CLP where I want thin /light lube. Wilson Combat Ultima Lube (Grease) where I need something with a more viscosity to stay put.

Honestly though, I think almost any oil works fine for revolver applications.

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Dave

Recently a friend asked me if I would take a look at his Ruger revolver. He said it was working when he put it in the safe , but now it wasn't.
When I took it apart there was a lacquer like coating on all the parts. I soaked the parts in a pan of Kroil for 24 hours. The coating was still there.
Soaked it another 24 hours in 'Ed's Red'. Then had to use a brush, paper towels, cleaning patches and various tools to clean the gummy mess off each part.
I called him up and said, OMG what kind of oil did you use on that gun?? He told me Hoppe's oil. ( Never did find out the exact type / name)
I know Hoppe's makes several different lubs. etc. And I have used Hoppe's #9 forever and never had any problems. But this was the worse mess I have ever seen.

I've had good luck with Breakfree CLP. But, recently I've been using Kroil and Kroil oil.

I don't know why a lot of folks don't like WD-40 ?

Many many years ago, when I was in my muzzleloading phase.
I came home from a match,, tired, busy, didn't feel like cleaning my muzzleloader right then. Put a piece of leather over the nipple and gave it a big shot of WD-40. Figured I'd clean it tomorrow.

When the next month muzzleloader match came around. I went to get my rifle and realized I hadn't ever cleaned the rifle from last month match.!!
I figure the barrel would be totally destroyed with rust. I started cleaning the barrel. To my total amazement and joy there was no rust in the barrel..
I never forgot to clean a muzzleloader again,, but was totally impressed & happy with how the WD-40 had worked..

I use only Ballistol and no other oil for cleaning and lube outside and on internals. Always worked really great. I also think that it is not as damaging when seeping towards the wood. I do not use it on wood but I think I could. I use Ren Wax on all of the outsides for storage and dressing up the gun nice. On pivot points, rails and ratchets I use Shooters choice grease.

If I'm at the range and have forgotten gun oil I've pulled the dipstick and applied some Mobile One Full Synthetic 5-30 to whichever firearm needed it.

Since it's already warm it penetrates real well and being 5-30 it works in all seasons.

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Fools despise wisdom.

Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 different answers. Just about anything will work. What oil gums up in 2 months?

For a revolver the lubricating requirements are pretty minimal. Anything from lightweight machine oil to a light coat of heavyweight gear oil will do just fine. Many people are adamant their oil is best because they've used it for years without problem. The truth is that any product sold as gun oil will work just fine and just about anything in your garage labeled "oil" will suffice.

I've sprayed plenty of newly purchased, decade old guns with WD-40 and never experienced any problems. The first thing I do when I get a old gun is lightly clean it and then spray it down with WD-40 and let it sit for a couple of days and then disassemble and do a deep clean. I'm pretty sure there have been times where WD-40 was all I used and the gun sat for months without any ill effects. The nice thing about WD-40 is that it will penetrate and loosen up any stuck parts and make old gunk easy to clean out. Letting excessive quantities of any oil build up in the action of a revolver will eventually cause a problem.

I agree that revolver lube requirements are minimal, except for the hand and star engagement. I think it's best to put a bit of synthetic grease on them.

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Foster Positivity.

Awesome! An oil thread!

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America First

You guys that like WaterDisplacing-40 need to do yourselves a favor and pick op a can of Kroil.
You can thank me later.

The above may be some of the best advice tendered.
Old craftsmen and gunsmiths almost always had Singer Sewing Machine Oil and/or 3-IN-ONE oil on the bench. I have a lot of options available, and from experience over a long time, can assure you that that is about all you will ever really need. Splurge on a bottle of Mobil One if you wish.... or spend ten bucks for an ounce or two of magic, but the old standards will serve you well.
In 'gun oil' you don't necessarily get what you pay for.
WD is okay short-term, but I have personally seen real problems where it has been used for long term storage.
Since I sold my car that had a distributor cap, rotor, and points, I have no WD-40 on my shelf. I found it fantastic for water displacement on ignition systems, but not stellar as a lubricant.

0W-20 synthetic on the inside, CLP on the outside. My Honda takes 3.5 quarts, so there's always plenty left over after an oil change.

Another vote for RemOil, though I would not scream NO at Breakfree CLP either.

I use and clean my pistols often so I can't offer a long-term storage choice.

However, Grant Cunningham wrote an excellent article, Lubrication 101, that provides a great deal of information we might consider before making our next gun lubricant purchase. Here is the link: Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com

Pretty much anything will work.

I've tried just about every type of oil out there over the years and needlessly spent a lot of money on various snake oils.

My father and grandfather always just used the Hoppes in the little orange bottle and it worked just fine. What most most people don't know about the Hoppes oil is that it is just straight white mineral oil. I confirmed this through three different sources at the company including a call to the poison control hotline on the MSDS sheet.

I was told it was "industrial grade" mineral oil which they explained simply meant that it hadn't been purified and was full of contaminates unlike USP grade mineral oil, so Hoppes is nothing more than just dirty baby oil without the fragrance. If an individual likes Hoppes, they would be much better served by just picking up a bottle of USP white mineral from a pharmacy that would actually be better and cheaper.

This has been a staple of my bench for my entire adult life and most of my childhood when I used to filch the can from my mother's Singer sewing machine to use on my Benjamin air rifle.

Wow that's a lot of opinions. the Grant Cunningham article was a good read but mostly told me what not to use instead of what to use

Mostly Ballistol. Great Product.

Birchwood Casey Synthetic is also good, but has a strong chemical smell to me.

I also have some Tetra oil and Tetra grease. They are great too.

Hoppes no. 9

Ballistic always,best on market.

Gun Butter

THE INTENDED PURPOSE OF THIS PRODUCT IS EVIDENT IN ITS NAME--"WD-40". THE WD STANDS FOR WATER DISPLACEMENT. IT DOES A GREAT JOB---FOR THAT PARTICULAR PURPOSE ! ! !

THE SINGER SEWING MACHINE, AND 3 IN 1 PRODUCTS ARE BOTH LABELLED "OIL". INHERENT IN THAT LABELLING, IS THE FACT THAT THEIR MAIN PURPOSE IS LUBRICATION. THEY BOTH DO AN EXCELLENT JOB. IN THAT ROLE ! ! !

THERE IS A DIFFERENCE, BOYS AND GIRLS......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

While we are at it, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

I packed my guns away for nearly 20 years, stored in simple plastic gun cases in my closet. The only "prep" was a wipe down with Outers gun oil. Not a spec of rust or gunk when I pulled them out.

Rem Oil, 3 In 1, and Hoppe's. They all work for me.

So... a huge bottle of mineral oil will work just fine?

While I tend to use Hoppe’s for cleaning (No. 9 or Elite), I oftentimes reach for either Ballistol, RemOil or M-Pro7 for lube.

Kano Labs Microil, designed for guns.

Stu

A thread started by Scoobysnacker has some good info regarding Lubriplate and a cheaper version - here: Lubriplate oil equivalent?

Mobil One synthetic in a bellows bottle that you can get from Brownells.

Rem-oil and Breakfree CLP is what I use.

I see Break Free makes a so called Collector oil I'm going to give that a try

Just a footnote, sewing machine oil used to be whale oil and was even used in the space program due to it's properties. It was the finest grade oil you could get. I have no clue as to what is in sewing machine oil now.

Long term storage to me is maybe a month between uses.

Just as well as the Hoppes #9 lubricating oil since they are one in the same.

WD-40 is a fair solvent especially for stickers and tape residue. It is a good water displacer for ignition wires and the like. It is a lousy lubricant and a poor preservative.

I use Birchwood Casey Barricade for the outside of my guns. It leaves a friendly coating that is nicer to handle, after it dries, compared to any oils. It is very effective against corrosion. I use Weapon Shield for lubricating moving parts.

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Billy
Gunsmith, M/C mechanic

I used RIG grease for long term storage, but my general use gun oil is whatever I find of sale. Right now it's Rem Oil because I have a couple gallons of it.

I have probably 40 kinds of lubricants on hand. I like FP-10 for match semi-auto pistols for lubrication. I saw a demo, when it first came out and its lubricating properties are impressive. I use TW 25b grease for my carry pistols. I like Eezox for a rust preventative. For a penetrating oil, Kroil, is my go to stuff. There are plenty of other good oils out there. I would never use WD-40 on any of my firearms, and I did when I was new to guns. I don't like it because it isn't a good lubricant and will solidify over time, gumming up your firearms. You live and learn. Threads like this get all kinds of different suggestions. Most of them are good.

Hoppes #9 used to be my go-to chemical warfare salvo when the old lady busted out the nail polish remover... Then BreakFree CLP or Mobil 1 or whatever.

But then several years ago, I ran across FrogLube. The wintergreen aroma and edible quality stuck. Been using it on everything since without noticing any negative effects. I try not to eat too much of it when I'm lubing up the klatchers...