Just wondering what people are using to lube the internals of their revolvers.
Oil or a very light amount of grease ?

I would never suggest you grease the internals; attracts too much dirt. They are designed to run dry. VERY little oil on moving parts will be fine.

__________________
Ban this man,
'89

Oil. I only grease the spur on the back of the extractor star where the hand contacts it.

On my very old revolvers that have two leaf springs, I'll put a dab of grease where the hammer "foot" slides along the face of the second leaf spring.

Elsewise oil.

__________________
SWCA #3356, SWHF#611

If it slides>>>Grease it If it turns>>>Oil it.

__________________
S&W Accumulator

There has never been anything wrong with lubing S&W guns, revolvers or semiautomatics, exactly the way they say to do it in their owner's manuals. If you don't have a manual for your gun, get it from S&W and read it.

BTW, it's oil...

__________________
Pisgah

I grease the internals more than use oil. Oil drips out.

Yoke, the pins, and on the sides of the rebound slide. Grease. I prefer boron nitride grease.

Light coat of oil everywhere else.

__________________
Psalm 27:2

Watching “ Smiling Larry” of Midway, he wets his fingers with oil and rubs the internals and springs with those fingers.
I think that’s a good program.
A little of good lube goes a long ways

__________________
“Look life in its iron face”

When I hear his voice on a video, I immediately think, "My gun is going to work after today!"

__________________
Psalm 27:2

I use heavy oil -- any 30-weight motor oil works well.

Light oil disappears way too quickly (it oxidizes too quickly).

Grease can cause problems because it hardens or turns gummy over time. Forget grease. (Although your mom's/wife's Vaseline does not seem to turn gummy or hard over time, who knows why ).


-------

Except for break-action shotguns where it is the opposite.

I wiped everything with a light coat of oil then smear a little grease on a few areas where metal rubs on metal.

Light viscosity full synthetic grease applied when I pull the sideplate.
Oil everywhere else.

And wheel bearings, u-joints, ball joints, etc, etc, etc.

I use oil. Just a small amount. For the internals, I put a drop of oil on each side of the trigger, let capillary action pull it into the action, then cycle it a few times. With the grips off, I'll sometimes put another drop where the bottom of the rebound slide meets the frame before cycling the action.

FYI, I have Centennials so I can't cock the hammer and apply oil that way.

That right there.

If oil is dripping out, you are using too much. All it takes is a thin film. Never "wet". Ever.

No grease.

I like Dri-Slide. It's a liquid moly whose volatile carrier evaporates leaving the moly particles intact. It creeps everywhere, and becomes dry, making all moving parts slick. It works pretty good.

Yep. I grease the trunnions on my under and over shotguns. I only use white lithium grease on my guns where grease is needed.

__________________
S&W Accumulator

I use a little bit of Tetra Gun Grease under the rebound slide and in the bolt trench. Just a touch of oil elsewhere. My revolvers don't get much use besides fondling...

Only oil in my guns.

I believe oil is a better lubricant than grease for tight clearances of metal to metal. Grease doesn't seep into very close tolerances like oil can. I also don't think grease does much in the way of embedding into smooth surfaces like oil can.
Wilson Combat says gun grease is for heavier guns and definitely not used where it is cold.

YEP. "grease what slides and oil what rotates".

__________________
John

Vaseline was the only recommended lube on early Luger's + many other firearms for many years - never seen it hardened on anything -

The only type of lubricant I use inside of Revolvers is Rig #2 Oil. It is similar to Remoil in that it is very thin, won't attract crud and debris and the carrier evaporates leaving protection and lubrication behind. It has not let me down in over 40 years and I would NEVER use any grease inside a Revolver - but that's just me.

OP specifically asked about revolvers-- oil. Light oil.

Non-revolvers, have used a little grease on slides, BCGs, etc.. it is like a magnet for carbon and gunk and adopt the light oil approach.

I have learned over time a little truly does go a long way, especially if one maintains their gear properly.

We all have our favorites. My revolver internals and pistol internals get Neco Moly Slide............look them up, you might be glad you did It will lighten a trigger pull, I have measured it!
Karl

Might not be the best but 3in1 oil has worked well for me

I'm old and I used to use only Rem Oil. When I found G96 products I switched to that. I like the smell, to me it's like bubblegum.

__________________
Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

On revolvers, I use oil, Corrosion X is my current favorite, which is good since I have 3 bottles of the stuff and that is likely to be a lifetime supply. Oil is applied sparingly, you need just enough to lubricate and protect, nothing more.

I use a very tacky grease used on centerless grinding machines on the hinge pins only of my comp trap shotguns. If I do use a grease elsewhere, it is Ponsness -Warren STOS. Internal revolver compoents of any gun get a couple drops of military grade surplus LSA small arms weapon oil. I figure the govt did plenty of testing before they put something in service. I believe LSA stands for lithium small arms

__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

Larry Potterfield is a blessing for those of us who work on our guns. Love that guy and his videos.

==============

As for revolver lube, I stick with some sort of light oil.If I goof up and use too much, a little compressed/canned air gets out the surplus.

My Dad and I only used WD40 and 3 in 1 oil for over 40 years.....Clean with WD40 and oil with 3 in 1...............This we started in the late 50's......before all these other "snake oil " products appeared.

__________________
S&W Accumulator

Are there any manufacturers that recommend grease on their firearms? As far as I know, they only recommend oil of some type.

I saw the "Smiling Larry" bit on tv last night. I was a bit surprised that
he didn't use grease on anything. Not even the yoke. Oil only simplifies
things so that's what I will do from now on.

Oil. Applied with either a small hypo type syringe/bottle or a toothpick.
If grease then I use Rig but a small can of that has lasted me 40 years.
The grease is mostly used on a rag to wipe down the exterior of blued guns and the bore if going into storage.
My grease rag now has most every lube ever made on it but Rem oil and Rig grease are the 2 biggies.

As an aside, when I took delivery of my 444 Marlin double rifle, it was packed with white lithium grease.
All over and in everything including the forearm (and poking out of the firing pin holes)!
It took me several weeks of carefully cleaning with Q-tips, patches, and toothpicks to get it all out.
I sparingly used some solvents but kept them away from the wood which I had removed and cleaned separately
before sealing the unfinished insides with some Dembart London stock finish.
I did use bore solvent on the copper that was filling up the rifling.
I think that gun was last "serviced" at an automobile garage before I got it.
Now it's a gem, fitting me perfectly as if I had "tried" at the factory and well regulated to boot.

That whole experience made me even less likely to use lithium grease on any gun for any reason.
There are better solutions.

__________________
NEMO
"Everything 44"

I got a bucket of popcorn and a liter of soda I'm good to go. Okay continue.��

__________________
2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

Grease is a lubricant oil is a rust preventative. What are you trying to do with these? I sat in on a "Fafnir" siminar early in life and was told the reason most bearing sufaces fail in over lubrication!
Steve

Been using Lubriplate 105 for many years on anything that slides.

__________________
I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

After serving as a police armorer for several years, (30+) I'll give an opinion based on that experience. Those of you who carry firearms for a living, or for personal protection should carefully consider the environment you are going to be working in, (or outside in) and choose your favorite cleaners and lubricants based on this information.

Grease is never a good idea. Ever. Lots of oil, even light gun oil, only serves to attract dirt and dust, and render the firearm unusable or unreliable should it get really cold. Today's firearms, and particularly S&W produced revolvers need very little lubrication anywhere to function properly.

I would suggest looking under the sideplate of an "out of the box" gun (S&W) you have purchased recently for a suggestion on what and how much lubricant is needed in there. You won't find any.....zero. For those of you who carry and expose your carry gun to extreme cold, that is exactly what I would use under the sideplate. Nothing.
Be careful when doing your maintenance and cleaning too. The wrong liquids can get down inside the gun and cause all kinds of issues. I have some horror stories, believe me.

Exterior surfaces and parts of the gun exposed to rain, snow or sweat should be wiped down frequently with a lightly oiled cloth, or even better, with a cloth exposed to a good rust preventative like CorrosionX, Hornady One Shot HD-Extreme, or Frog Lube CLP Paste.

The bottom line is it's your gun, your choice. Choose wisely, and please, do regular practice, maintenance, and function checks.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Decades ago I got introduced to a lubricant labeled Dri-Slide. It's a moly based dry lube in an evaporating carrier liquid. Goes on wet, dries to a film of lubricant that doesn't attract dust, dirt, unburned powder and stays put. I use it sparingly on the internals. Probably as much for corrosion resistance as lubrication.

You may have to find it in industrial supply stores. I bought a case about ten years ago and gave it as gifts to family members and still have a lifetime supply.

For the internals of a S&W revolver, there are probably several acceptable lubricants, but either THE best or one of the best is RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. This lube should be used sparingly. If you don't recognize that word, look it up in the dictionary. If you use it on a 1911, re-test all of the safeties in accordance with the appropriate military publication. I am not just trying to be funny - do it.

BTW, don't be put off by the cute +P designation. This lube is safe for guns made prior to 1957.

__________________
Formerly Model520Fan

Is a like worth a free sample?

__________________
Formerly Model520Fan

C-X makes oil specifically for guns, and it works well. The company HQ is just a few blocks from our shop, so I get it direct. As you say, very light coats.

__________________
Hal, SWCA 3340

Geissele triggers makes a #1 grease that is some really nice stuff. Very thin grease and super slick. Wont freeze or gum or anything.
Everyone should check it out, it really blows away everything else when it comes to lubricating firearms

Is butter on the popcorn grease or oil?

Straight pure 90 weight butter !!

__________________
2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

OK, where is are the Mobil 1 synthetic oil guys?

__________________
2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

You mean these guys?

A very sparing application of a very light gun oil (I like Remoil myself but others are fine) as indicated in the manual. It might be hard to believe but gun manufacturers usually know what they are doing, know what works and want your revolver to function properly for you. This has worked for me for over 50 years.

I'll admit to using Mobil1. Not all the time, but often enough. Especially when the lube/preservative has to be inoffensive smelling.

Heck, my milsurp rifles lived on synthetic Mobil1 ATF and motor oil.