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04-05-2020, 07:39 PM
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Revolver Disassembly
I've never took a revolver apart in my life. I have a model 69 that I would like to remove the lock and plug the hole.
I've polished the mat finish off and replaced all the black screws and thumb piece with stainless. I'd like to polish off the black coating from the trigger and hammer while I have it apart.
Was watching this YT video, and it doesn't seem like there's that much to mess up.
In the video he's using an older Smith, other than the lock, is there much difference? I know my 69 obviously doesn't have a hammer mounted firing pin also.
Would this video do the trick?
Thanks,
Kevin
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04-05-2020, 07:43 PM
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There are disassembly videos available that have the lock and I think the guy that sells the plug has one on his site.
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04-05-2020, 08:17 PM
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The new guns are pretty much the same as far as removing and replacing the parts. There are a few obvious differences like the lock and firing pin, but the major parts are the same.
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04-05-2020, 08:56 PM
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A few of the parts aren't pinned together like they were. Take pictures with your camera as you go to make orientation easier on reassembly.
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04-05-2020, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken158
There are disassembly videos available that have the lock and I think the guy that sells the plug has one on his site.
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I'd forgot about that video.
Figure it would be a good time to do it, since we ain't supposed to be going out much.
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04-06-2020, 06:57 AM
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The black finish on the hammer and trigger can be easily removed using Naval Jelly. Works in just a few minutes. I used it on my model 69 and 625PC. It can be found at the local hardware store.
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04-06-2020, 12:42 PM
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My biggest problem came when I let the little spring that hides inside the trigger come out. Getting it back in place required some ingenuity. I also managed to lose a couple but S&W sent replacements to me gratis.
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04-06-2020, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastie762
The black finish on the hammer and trigger can be easily removed using Naval Jelly. Works in just a few minutes. I used it on my model 69 and 625PC. It can be found at the local hardware store.
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What is left after the Naval Jelly does the magic? Do you have to put another coating on it to keep it from rusting??? My experience using Naval Jelly is that after you get rid of what you want to get rid of-the metal starts to rust immediately unless you are ready to go with another protective coating
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04-06-2020, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAJUNLAWYER
What is left after the Naval Jelly does the magic? Do you have to put another coating on it to keep it from rusting??? My experience using Naval Jelly is that after you get rid of what you want to get rid of-the metal starts to rust immediately unless you are ready to go with another protective coating
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The black screws, ejector rod, and thumb piece are stainless treated with something to make them black.
Not too sure about the hammer and trigger, but I'd guess they are also stainless.
I replaced everything black on mine except the ejector rod. I used a buffing wheel in my grinder to take it off. Took less than a minute.
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04-06-2020, 04:51 PM
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Unless something has changed in the last couple of years, the only actual stainless steel revolver hammers and triggers S&W ever used were on the very early Model 60 and Model 66.
The stainless hammers and trigger didn't wear like S&W needed so they went to standard carbon steel with a flash chrome plating on stainless guns.
In the 90's they went to plain color case hardened carbon steel.
After they went to MIM parts they gave the hammer and trigger a "sort of" color case hardened finish, actually a black, blotchy finish over carbon steel.
So, I'm pretty sure that your hammer and trigger are carbon steel with a blackened finish.
Remove the coating and the parts will rust quickly.
I don't recommend Naval Jelly because it etches and roughens the steel and requires polishing to get it smooth again.
Some hard chrome plating services offer special pricing for small parts.
Years ago I had several S&W Model 66 hammers and triggers with the factory flash chrome plating re-plated after rounding off the sharp edges.
You might check the top platers like Cogan and Ford's and ask about plating your hammer and trigger.
Last edited by dfariswheel; 04-06-2020 at 04:52 PM.
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04-06-2020, 06:22 PM
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Whatever you do PLEASE do not pry the side plate off with anything and PLEASE do not install side plate with the screws.
I’ve seen so many warped and gouged side plates on very nice revolvers when touched by bubba.
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04-06-2020, 07:38 PM
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Your gun has MIM trigger and hammer. One of the characteristics of MIM is that the heat treating is very shallow. It is a very good possibility that you will ruin your parts if you try to polish off the finish. I'm not sure how you could remove the finish without damaging the part and I don't know if it is even possible to shine a MIM part.
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04-07-2020, 05:36 AM
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After removing the coating with naval jelly. the hammer and trigger are a gray color like those on standard guns. I just wiped them down with a light coat of oil, no problems with corrosion.
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