Which stones should I buy

m41

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I am needing to know which type of stones I need to buy as a new person who wants to lessen the trigger pull on a J frame S&W I have already tried going from 12# to 14# trigger springs without any success
 
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stoning

I'm not sure of your past experience with revolvers, but I wouldn't be in too big a hurry to try to fix a J-frame trigger pull issue by stoning the action. A lot of harm can be done to your revolver by doing this, especially if your experience is limited. Because of the design of the action itself, J frames have a very "heavy" feel in terms of trigger pull, especially when compared with larger frames, like the K frames, for instance.

You didn't mention the model you are working on, but you'll also want to consider how the gun will be used. Will it be a carry gun or a range gun?
This is a big part of the decision to modify the gun, because the reliability of the revolver will, to some extent, be compromised by spring changes and internal modifications.

I'll assume you are posting about double action.....most of the heavy feedback in the trigger in double action is caused by the mainspring, and because of the coil mainspring in the J-frame design, you're spring options are limited. Wolff, Wilson, Apex and others do offer a slightly lighter mainspring, and lighter rated rebound slide springs, sometimes in "kit" form. These springs can provide a bit lighter feedback from the action in terms of tension. After installation, testing trigger pull results with a reliable gauge, and field testing at the range is always a good idea in order to confirm reliability.

WILSON COMBAT #321 S&W J FRAME SPRING KIT | Brownells

Reference your question about stones, S&W armorer's tool kits come with a 6"x1/2"x1/2" Norton medium India stone, which is used for dealing with burrs on hardened internal parts, and for sharpening the trigger bevel to repair push off. They are available from Brownell's, and other places. Always fall back on your training, and use caution when considering material removal....unlike the barber shop when you make an error.....what is removed won't grow back.

NORTON 6" X 1/2" X 1/2" INDIA STONE | Brownells

Carter
 
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In my uneducated but slightly experienced opinion, you might consider disassembling and cleaning the internals, lubricating VERY sparingly with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube, especially the rebound slide, hammer, trigger and DA sear. This will probably improve things. Whether it will be enough for you is another question. There are probably one or two other magic high-pressure lubricants, but I don't have any significant experience with them.
 
I'd be very reluctant to stone the innards free hand. Too easy to change the angles and mess up the works. That's me though, with a history of messing up the works. As others have noted, try some other things first. There may be a jig you can use to keep the angles correct. Stone a little, test a lot.
 
Like armorer951 said, to lessen the SA trigger pull you must alter the angel on the trigger bevel and it’s very easy to mess it up and have an unsafe trigger. Power Custom makes a really good stoning fixture for this job, but this will only make sense to buy if you are planing on working on more than one firearm. If it’s a lighter DA trigger pull you are after, buy a Wilson Combat spring kit. If its a lighter SA trigger pull you want, give it to a gunsmith.
 
All of the above advice is good. Just my preference, but I very much prefer for my double action pull to be pretty firm. Sometimes I will install a 12 or 14 lb. rebound spring but I leave the mainspring at full or nearly full tension. One thing that I notice that you said you went from a 12# to 14# rebound spring. The 14# is a heavier spring.
 
I've got some diamond polishing compound......I used it on a new 9 mm semi auto........put it on/in the trigger components and dry fired it as much as needed......it smoothes things out. I'd have to check but I have 2 different grits.......

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I have been inside all my Smiths I have owned and took them all apart for years. I have even changed springs in alot of them. One thing I have NEVER done is tried to meddle with sear engagement with a stone or file or anything. I use stones for stuff like smoothing rubbing parts and cleanup so stuff slides smooth. As for springs, I fiddled with them enough to know that the aftermarket leaf springs are strictly for maybe a special target purpose. As for the reduced power return springs, I stopped at about the value in the middle, that is less than factory. The light ones will NOT return the trigger very well and would lead to a gun action jam up in a crisis probably. You want that trigger to snap back surely and fast, in fast DA triggering. Or you are dead. I always get some improvement up to quite a lot of improvement depending on the gun, but I respect my limits, as not being a trained and experienced REAL smith. But you should invest in the Jerry K. S&W revolver shop manual to get some idea of the facts.
 
I have and like using Arkansas Stones. They are harder and cut slower - less likely to go too far by accident. Yes - the job takes longer but IMHO gets it done more precisely and with a smoother final finish.

Most use India Stones which for Gun Smiths and super experienced Revolver Guys (cut faster where time is money) however I'm not in a rush and like the super smooth finish of an Arkansas Stone.

NOTE: Before putting ANY STONE to metal, PLEASE make SURE you know exactly what you are doing!!! Just a few strokes can ruin a great gun! I'd try swapping out springs first!!! These days replacement parts are both expensive and in some cases very hard to get.
 
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