I'm not opposed to trying or learning, I'm just not trained in anything like this especially on an old gun like this. The most elaborate work I've done is pushing a new sight into a dovetail, installing a drop-in trigger kit, lightly sanding parts to fit etc. If I had a good video or manual to follow I can certainly follow directions. It sounds like I need to order a new set-up, I had no idea the spring was "Bubba'd" if you want to call it that, I picked up the gun used (from Cabelas of all places) for about $500 around six months ago, I've only had the opportunity to put around 250-300 rounds through it, but it definitely had inconsistent ignition and it sounds like we know why. Pardon my ignorance (again), but if I buy say a Wolff hammer spring pack, that should be all I (or a gunsmith) would need to replace the sketchy parts, right? Thanks again for all the expertise and insight.
36-1 with frequent light primer strikes, should I try new springs & if so, which?
- Thread starter Jboogie
- Start date
The good news is that you can be pretty certain you've found the problem. That looks like two springs instead of one, and it appears to be all bound up.
All you need is a mainspring, and the Wolff kit includes that, albeit a 1/2lb less pressure spring. As I stated above, with the lower-weight spring my 63 impacts primers hard and deep.
Replacement is not that difficult. With the grips off, you can see what you need to do. Cock the hammer back til it locks. At the bottom of the strut you will see a tiny hole. Slide a straightened paper clip about 1/4" into that hole. With your thumb on the hammer, release it and let it slowly ride forward. Your mainspring should basically fall out at this point.
Place the flat end of the strut in a vise and clamp it down. With a tight grip of your fingers, press up on the little cup that is pressing against the paper clip. If you press up hard enough, you should be able to slide the paperclip out and then slowly release the pressure. The spring will slide right off.
Installing the new spring is just the reverse of getting it out. I would suggest that you have something blocking the path of that spring if it slips out of your fingers. I actually point it towards my stomach when I push it on. That way, if I slip it will hit my fat and fall instead of flying across the room and going into the twilight zone.
Once you get the new spring on, and paperclip installed simply position the strut onto the hammer, cock the hammer (making sure to seat the cup into the cutout in the gripframe for it) and remove the paperclip.
You might not be able to position it on the hammer correctly without removing the sideplate. If not, don't despair. The sideplate is easy to remove...three screws and a rap. But, don't remove it without asking how, or watching a video or two. It's easy to damage it if you go at it without a little bit of knowledge.
All you need is a mainspring, and the Wolff kit includes that, albeit a 1/2lb less pressure spring. As I stated above, with the lower-weight spring my 63 impacts primers hard and deep.
Replacement is not that difficult. With the grips off, you can see what you need to do. Cock the hammer back til it locks. At the bottom of the strut you will see a tiny hole. Slide a straightened paper clip about 1/4" into that hole. With your thumb on the hammer, release it and let it slowly ride forward. Your mainspring should basically fall out at this point.
Place the flat end of the strut in a vise and clamp it down. With a tight grip of your fingers, press up on the little cup that is pressing against the paper clip. If you press up hard enough, you should be able to slide the paperclip out and then slowly release the pressure. The spring will slide right off.
Installing the new spring is just the reverse of getting it out. I would suggest that you have something blocking the path of that spring if it slips out of your fingers. I actually point it towards my stomach when I push it on. That way, if I slip it will hit my fat and fall instead of flying across the room and going into the twilight zone.
Once you get the new spring on, and paperclip installed simply position the strut onto the hammer, cock the hammer (making sure to seat the cup into the cutout in the gripframe for it) and remove the paperclip.
You might not be able to position it on the hammer correctly without removing the sideplate. If not, don't despair. The sideplate is easy to remove...three screws and a rap. But, don't remove it without asking how, or watching a video or two. It's easy to damage it if you go at it without a little bit of knowledge.
Matt_X
Member
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I look at the situation a little differently.
Yep. You could say its been Bubbad. Now what else did Bubba do? I think it is worth a look see.
Aside:
Sometimes, although not often, what looks like a Bubba had more thought behind it than we knew. Search for a recent thread on Farrant grips for an example. (Still might call it Bubba depending on your perspective, but thats another story).
You have the stocks off, and you have a set of good screwdrivers. Then might as well take the sideplate off and have a look see. Here's a thread. Side Plate Removal
I'll add the following:
Keep the three screws lined up or seperate in some way to guarentee each goes back in the hole they came out of. The yoke screw is probably shorter but just keep them in order and then there will be no issue.
With the screw drivers. Use your own eyes to determine the best fit for the slot. For some people, supporting the tip of the screw driver with a finger helps keep it in the slot while turning.
Don't snap the action with the sideplate off. In fact if you want to remove the mainspring before removing the sideplate, that's fine. Well its fine if you can. I'm pretty sure I could on the 36-1. My recollection was that reassembly was easier with the sideplate off.
Finally, the hammer block. It's retained in position by the slot for it in the sideplate. Look at my thread and you'll see lots of pictures and drawings of the hammer block. But you may want to take a photo of your own when the sideplate pops up. Find the channel in the sideplate so you can position it for reassembly.
MidwayUSA.com has a decent video showing sideplate removal although its a K frame.
Go to "Video Library"
Select Smith & Wesson Revolver, and then select the 'safety features' or the disassembly video. I am not suggesting removing anything at this time beyond the hammer block (which will basically fall out). You can even leave the cylinder and yoke installed if you want.
Yep. You could say its been Bubbad. Now what else did Bubba do? I think it is worth a look see.
Aside:
Sometimes, although not often, what looks like a Bubba had more thought behind it than we knew. Search for a recent thread on Farrant grips for an example. (Still might call it Bubba depending on your perspective, but thats another story).
You have the stocks off, and you have a set of good screwdrivers. Then might as well take the sideplate off and have a look see. Here's a thread. Side Plate Removal
I'll add the following:
Keep the three screws lined up or seperate in some way to guarentee each goes back in the hole they came out of. The yoke screw is probably shorter but just keep them in order and then there will be no issue.
With the screw drivers. Use your own eyes to determine the best fit for the slot. For some people, supporting the tip of the screw driver with a finger helps keep it in the slot while turning.
Don't snap the action with the sideplate off. In fact if you want to remove the mainspring before removing the sideplate, that's fine. Well its fine if you can. I'm pretty sure I could on the 36-1. My recollection was that reassembly was easier with the sideplate off.
Finally, the hammer block. It's retained in position by the slot for it in the sideplate. Look at my thread and you'll see lots of pictures and drawings of the hammer block. But you may want to take a photo of your own when the sideplate pops up. Find the channel in the sideplate so you can position it for reassembly.
MidwayUSA.com has a decent video showing sideplate removal although its a K frame.
Go to "Video Library"
Select Smith & Wesson Revolver, and then select the 'safety features' or the disassembly video. I am not suggesting removing anything at this time beyond the hammer block (which will basically fall out). You can even leave the cylinder and yoke installed if you want.
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Another possibility is getting one of these from Numrich. The M49 I bought off GB had the same problem with light strikes. Getting the whole assembly made fixing the problem relatively easy. I've since put about a thousand rounds through that gun, including a one-day class where the round count was 200+, and it's been 100%.
That would definitely make the installation easier since you wouldn't have to compress the spring to get it on the strut. But, I'm always leery about buying used parts without being able to inspect them.
Another issue that can cause light strikes is excess end shake. You have a lot of end shake and sometimes the cylinder is all the way back when hammer nose strikes the primer, then part of its energy is used up driving the round and the complete cylinder assy forward.
max503
Member
If you've got the tools and you are anywhere near being mechanically inclined, I would say go for it. Just read up on it first. Maybe watch some youtube videos.
I read-up and did it.
I recently replaced the spark plugs on my Dodge Grand Caravan. Was I nervous? Heck yes. But I read up on it, and took my time and I was careful.
It went well and it was a very rewarding experience.
If you decide to do it I'd say do you homework then take your time. It's really not that hard to do. You know your abilities better than anyone else.
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I bought my 36 in the Cabela's Gun Library 5 years ago. The price was fair, and the finish good. When I got it to the car and got the trigger lock off, I discovered is was practically glued together with old lube. I stripped it down completely, all parts off the frame, and started soaking them in a bath of Hoppes. I went after the frame with a toothbrush and q-tips, using Hoppes, and then CLP. Half a package of cleaning patches later, dried and lubed and reassembled, it turned out to have the best DA and crispest SA of any of my J's. Seemingly barely fired, then put away in a drawer somewhere for years. It's a keeper.
The 36 is worth fixing!
The 36 is worth fixing!
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Final update - springs replaced, gun working well now (& weird spring configuration)
Hi all,
Sorry to revive this dead thread, but I've been unable to set the time aside to mess with this gun until the past week or so. I ordered some replacement springs from Wolf (15lb hammer spring, 8lb rebound spring) and went to replace them this past weekend. I was pretty nervous but it wasn't too bad at all, the hardest part was getting the rebound spring in and out, but I only launched the spring twice before getting it in place.
Anyway, when I took the hammer spring off the strut, the suspicions of some of you were confirmed: there was a small piece of a small cut spring, clearly from something else, shoved onto the strut along with the main spring, which I guess they had cut too short... their solution to their bubba job was to add what looks like the spring from a toy onto it, reassembling and selling it. Thankfully replacing the springs was fairly simple, and I put ~125 rounds of FMJ, wadcutters etc through it without issue. Thanks again everyone for the help.
Hi all,
Sorry to revive this dead thread, but I've been unable to set the time aside to mess with this gun until the past week or so. I ordered some replacement springs from Wolf (15lb hammer spring, 8lb rebound spring) and went to replace them this past weekend. I was pretty nervous but it wasn't too bad at all, the hardest part was getting the rebound spring in and out, but I only launched the spring twice before getting it in place.
Anyway, when I took the hammer spring off the strut, the suspicions of some of you were confirmed: there was a small piece of a small cut spring, clearly from something else, shoved onto the strut along with the main spring, which I guess they had cut too short... their solution to their bubba job was to add what looks like the spring from a toy onto it, reassembling and selling it. Thankfully replacing the springs was fairly simple, and I put ~125 rounds of FMJ, wadcutters etc through it without issue. Thanks again everyone for the help.
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SGT ROCK 11B
Member
S&W revolvers from the 1950s and 1960s were built in a age of craftsmen/gunsmiths who were proud of their work.
Great revolvers but you never know what skill the previous owners have.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I am glad to hear problem resolved and a good Range Report.
