N Frame rear sight elevation screw fix
- Thread starter Will049
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Joni_Lynn
US Veteran
At this point the best move is to remove the front screw, slide the sight to the rear and remove it from the gun. Be watchful of any part that may be loose under the back end.
You can probably get just the parts needed to get it back in good working order.
It may just need to be put back together without any tension on it. (the elevation screw and it's lower parts)
You can probably get just the parts needed to get it back in good working order.
It may just need to be put back together without any tension on it. (the elevation screw and it's lower parts)
john traveler
Member
The rear sight elevation screw threads into a square boss that engages the frame in a keyway. If the screw or boss is stripped, they can be easily replaced without replacing the rear sight.
G
Guest
Guest
I would start out but making sure you have the right sized screwdriver and just simply loosen the front screw a few turns. Then try to screw the elevation screw down in a Clock-wise direction. You shouldn't have to remove the front screw unless somebody has bent the whole sight tongue up for some reason.
If the elevation screw is messed up it is held in place by a ring of spring steel that fits into a groove. If the first suggestion I made doesn't work , then I'd suggest you take it to a Pistolsmith and have it done right.
If the elevation screw is messed up it is held in place by a ring of spring steel that fits into a groove. If the first suggestion I made doesn't work , then I'd suggest you take it to a Pistolsmith and have it done right.
idahostreams
Member
A few months ago I messed up an elevation screw and ordered a new one from S&W along with two extra retaining rings, plunger springs and plungers. The parts were for an old gun but Smith sent me the parts at no charge, including shipping.
Julian
Julian
If you need to replace the elevation screw, the spring clip that holds it is a @#%$#@ to get off, and very easy to lose. If you have a sharp pointed dental pick it can be useful.
John_Watson
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Just replaced the elevation screw and square boss yesterday that were stripped. The retaining spring that holds the screw from falling out is a bear to get off even with a dental pic it took me about 20 minutes and a couple sore fingers. Make sure not to lose the spring and detent in the screw. They are small and can get lost easily.
Got a 686 today and had same issue. The adjustment screw is the nut and was over tightened by factory. I took sight off and flipped it upside down, placed screw head on something soild and FIRMLY tapped the square piece and it loosened it right up. Now I can adjust the elevation.
Same problem as up above, but on a Model 14-4.
I have the same problem on a Model 14-4. The gun is shooting much too high, and I can't tighten the screw to adjust it.
The rear sight is now removed from the gun. Here are three photos:
From reading the above, I understand there is a chance the screw can be screwed into the "square plate", so the sight is adjustable. How do I position the parts to try to do this - hold the square fitting with pliers, and try to screw the adjustment screw in clockwise?
Right now, the entire assembly, the square plate and the screw, moves up and down quite a bit. Maybe that means that the parts may not be stripped?
If I need to call S&W for replacements, can someone suggest what parts I need to ask for?
Seems to me that if the screw and the "square fitting" both move up and down together in my hand, maybe I somehow just need to get the screw started threading into the "square part".
I have the same problem on a Model 14-4. The gun is shooting much too high, and I can't tighten the screw to adjust it.
The rear sight is now removed from the gun. Here are three photos:
From reading the above, I understand there is a chance the screw can be screwed into the "square plate", so the sight is adjustable. How do I position the parts to try to do this - hold the square fitting with pliers, and try to screw the adjustment screw in clockwise?
Right now, the entire assembly, the square plate and the screw, moves up and down quite a bit. Maybe that means that the parts may not be stripped?
If I need to call S&W for replacements, can someone suggest what parts I need to ask for?
Seems to me that if the screw and the "square fitting" both move up and down together in my hand, maybe I somehow just need to get the screw started threading into the "square part".
Protocall_Design
Member
It looks like the screw is already all the way down on that one. The "square fitting" has the screw on it. The part with the screwdriver slot on top is actually the nut. It is a right hand thread, #3-80. You need to hold the square part and turn the screwdriver counter clockwise to get it loose.
Thanks, I didn't realize that. So the part on top is really the "nut", and the square fitting has the "screw" on the top.
I can put one finger on the bottom of the square, and another finger on the top of the "nut", and the assembly moves up and down. Is that normal?
If I press down on the "nut" with a screwdriver, and prevent the square fitting from turning, it sounds like the nut and screw will eventually separate - presumably at that point, the square piece would fall of, and the nut would be retained by the spring parts. Is this correct?
I do have another rear sight assembly, which originally was on a Model 28 Highway Patrolman. It's too long to fit onto the Model 14, but if I want to take off the screw, there should be no problem, right? Maybe I can try to put the screw from the Model 27 onto the Model 14, where maybe the nut on the Model 14 will engage the threads, and it will work. If I can get the rear sight blade down just a little, I can shoot the gun while waiting for new parts. (I'll call S&W in the morning.)
Thanks for all the advice. A few hours ago I didn't have a clue as to how any of this works. Now it makes sense.
I removed the "screw" from both of my rear sights, and the thread on both of them was fine. I re-assembled the sight on the gun, and adjusted the "nut" almost as far as it could go. I then took the following two photos, how far down the sight is going, as seen from the side, and also a view from the rear. If everything else is correct, then maybe the gun has the wrong sight blade in it.
If it's dry tomorrow, I'll see if it shoots any lower. Since it ought to be able to shoot "center hold", and it's nowhere even close, maybe it came with the wrong blade. How can I find out what size blade is appropriate for a standard Model 14-4 ?
I removed the "screw" from both of my rear sights, and the thread on both of them was fine. I re-assembled the sight on the gun, and adjusted the "nut" almost as far as it could go. I then took the following two photos, how far down the sight is going, as seen from the side, and also a view from the rear. If everything else is correct, then maybe the gun has the wrong sight blade in it.
If it's dry tomorrow, I'll see if it shoots any lower. Since it ought to be able to shoot "center hold", and it's nowhere even close, maybe it came with the wrong blade. How can I find out what size blade is appropriate for a standard Model 14-4 ?
More information:
I think this is the right page for my Model 14-4:
Smith & Wesson 14-4 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts
If so, this might be the correct sight blade:
Rear Sight Slide, White Outline, New Factory Original (.126) | Gun Parts
It specifies the size as 0.126"
The part that's in the rear sight right now seems to be very close to the 0.126, so it's probably correct.
If tomorrow is dry, I'll try it again, but this makes no sense. If the shots are hitting too high for a sub-6 hold, they'll be that much worse if I was trying to shoot center-hold, which is probably what the gun was designed for.
None of this makes sense to me - one way or another, the rear sight blade needs to be much lower, so I can lower the point of aim when I align the sights.
I think this is the right page for my Model 14-4:
Smith & Wesson 14-4 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts
If so, this might be the correct sight blade:
Rear Sight Slide, White Outline, New Factory Original (.126) | Gun Parts
It specifies the size as 0.126"
The part that's in the rear sight right now seems to be very close to the 0.126, so it's probably correct.
If tomorrow is dry, I'll try it again, but this makes no sense. If the shots are hitting too high for a sub-6 hold, they'll be that much worse if I was trying to shoot center-hold, which is probably what the gun was designed for.
None of this makes sense to me - one way or another, the rear sight blade needs to be much lower, so I can lower the point of aim when I align the sights.
One last thought...
This is a photo of my Model 28, after adjusting for sub-6-o'clock hold:
Maybe the real answer is staring me in the face - is the rear sight supposed to be flat on the bottom? Mine is bent, so the rear end is up in the air. Maybe that is the entire problem, and I either need to make it flat, or replace it.
Is this the way it's supposed to look?
This is a photo of my Model 28, after adjusting for sub-6-o'clock hold:
Maybe the real answer is staring me in the face - is the rear sight supposed to be flat on the bottom? Mine is bent, so the rear end is up in the air. Maybe that is the entire problem, and I either need to make it flat, or replace it.
Is this the way it's supposed to look?
Yes, it needs the "spring" actionOne last thought...
Maybe the real answer is staring me in the face - is the rear sight supposed to be flat on the bottom? Mine is bent, so the rear end is up in the air. Maybe that is the entire problem, and I either need to make it flat, or replace it.
Is this the way it's supposed to look?
Protocall_Design
Member
The curvature of the tang is what makes it elevate when the elevation screw is turned CCW. Otherwise (straight) it would not go up and down, it would just be all the way down all the time. You would have no elevation adjustment.
