Best way to clean up a blued finish?

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I may come into a M581, whose finish is dull. I didn’t notice any rust in my quick look, but the gun finish was dull.

Any suggestions to help renew the finish short of sending it out for a reblue?
 
I don't think there is much that can be done to brighten a blued finish.
I'd apply some Renaissance wax and live with it.
Always some risk in a reblue job. I wouldn't take that route unless a finish had major problems.
 
I use Isopropyl alcohol on a cleaning patch, wipe down with a microfiber cloth.
Then I lightly clean with Fritz, using only a tiny bit on my finger tip. I then buff with clean a microfiber cloth and finish with a thin coating of Renaissance Wax. Buffing it off again with a microfiber cloth. Go slow, go lightly, with the Fritz on Blued guns.
Fritz is not for regular use.
 
I use Isopropyl alcohol on a cleaning patch, wipe down with a microfiber cloth.
Then I lightly clean with Fritz, using only a tiny bit on my finger tip. I then buff with clean a microfiber cloth and finish with a thin coating of Renaissance Wax. Buffing it off again with a microfiber cloth. Go slow, go lightly, with the Fritz on Blued guns.
Fritz is not for regular use.

Only use Flitz on an original factory finish bluing. Don't have any before and after pictures but the two blue revolvers and the nickel had the the Flitz / Ren Wax treatment after I bought them used. The finish when I bought them was in very good shape but dull.

1974 Model 15
1956 Colt Official Police
 

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One non-harmful technique to clean and brighten bluing is to apply a coat of CLP Breakfree and let soak a few days, then apply more CLP to a clean patch and gently rub the finish.

This lifts and removed old crud and oxidized bluing that can dull the finish.
You know it's working when you see brown stains on the patch.
 
I may come into a M581, whose finish is dull. I didn’t notice any rust in my quick look, but the gun finish was dull.

Any suggestions to help renew the finish short of sending it out for a reblue?

My guess is dried gun oil. remove the grips and take a cotton ball and Hoppes # 9, and go all over it. Then, take another cotton ball, and go over it with alcohol. Then wipe with microfiber cloth. Then a coat of Renaissance ( Ren wax ) wax.

Whatever you do, no steel wool, no matter how fine in grade
 
I've become a fan of a good soaking in "Ed's Red" but to be honest I think Kroil oil or other oils probably do the same thing. I usually will soak a new gun for a few days, cleaning every so often and getting all the parts separated from the gun. Maybe it is wishful thinking, but they seem to look much better after. I also apply several coats of ren wax, even if I oil the gun after. I like to think it rejuvenates the finish. They do look better for it regardless of what it does. I try to avoid Flitz on a blued gun. I polished a stainless gun in short order with the stuff and a rag so I know it is abrasive.
 
Clean the gun well first using Hoppees #9 (or similar solvent, not oil) and extra fine steel wool (or equivalent synthetic 3M) Clean that off with some brake clean or Scrub free gun cleaner.


Then polish it lightly with Flitz paste and soft cloth (yes it is safe for factory bluing)
 
As it turns out, the finish is not that bad. Got the gun today & in better light it’s pretty decent, only some minor wear but the muzzle. I plan on giving it a good cleaning & inspection later this weekend.

Only thing I noticed is the extractor rod needed tightening. It’s straight, so no bent rod issues, but was tough to open. Realized the rod was unscrewed a bit, so hand tightened it for now.

An aside, my friend who sold me the 581, also asked me to look at his M13-2; the cylinder didn’t rotate freely- turned out 40+ years of gunk retarded the rotation. Gave it a good cleaning and returned it to him- it’s his Dad’s so he was super pleased

All in all, a good day
 
Yup - a LIGHT polishing with Flitz and a microfiber rag will do a nice job. That said, this is NOT something to do on a routine basis and I'd recommend only doing it once. While Flitz is the best and most mild product for this task, it IS still an abrasive and will remove bluing with more than a LIGHT or repeated cleaning/polishing.
 
Polishing occurs before the finish goes on. You can brighten things up a bit with stuff like Flitz, but don't overdo it.
 
Both this Model 27 and 36 benefited nicely from a single, light application of Flitz followed by a coat of Ren Wax.
 

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