I was disassembling a friend's pre-Model 37 Chief's Special Airweight to clean it when I discovered the frame to be cracked under the forcing cone. Can this frame be repaired or is it a parts gun? It has been owned since new and is in excellent condition otherwise - we'd like to save it if possible.
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Cracked Frame
- Thread starter Dosgatos
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That’s very very very discouraging news on a very classic pistol… unfortunately the frame cannot be repaired or replaced. I recently bought a 38-2 that had a similarly cracked frame. It was sent to the factory by the original seller and subsequently deemed unrepairable. The factory replaced the gun with a current production 638.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Unless it is bad enough to make the barrel loose in the frame the gun can still be used. If the barrel is loose it can be re-installed in the frame using Loc-Tite Sleeve Mount. Many S&W air-weight guns had the barrels secured from the factory with Loc-Tite.
Weird. I just ran into the same thing. A gorgeous 38-2 in Satin Nickel. Halfway home I remembered I didn't check for the crack. Sure enough, it was there. I was heat broken. Took it back to the store and pretty much traded it for a Colt Officers model. Would have preferred that 38-2 though.
To the OP. I sent S&W a 1983 2" model 10 I bought used about 3 years ago with a cracked frame. They sent me a new model 10. Contact S&W for a return and they'll probably send you a new gun.
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IMHO once the Frame is cracked it SHOULD be sent back to the Factory for a replacement under warranty. I personally would never try and fix it or fire it knowing it has been compromised - especially a lightweight Aluminum frame gun. I highly doubt S&W would want it fired either if you told them it's cracked. If they are willing to give you a brand new gun with a new warranty, it makes little sense to keep or mess with a defective one.
Cracks only get worse and spread farther, they never get better.
Cracks only get worse and spread farther, they never get better.
Friend received a new 686 after sending his Airweight in for the same issue.
I've had a Mod. 38 and a 642 with the same crack. Eventually the barrel will get looser and become a safety issue (the Mod. 38 barrel canted noticeably after a bit which is how I noticed it). There's no fix, in the case of the 642 S&W replaced it, I'd hope they would on your 37 but with how my last S&W CS experiences went I'd not be holding my breath.
DWalt
Member
One reason I have always avoided purchase of any revolver having an alloy frame. Too much luck involved.
.455_Hunter
Member
OP- Do you have any idea on the round count for the gun in question?
From what I have seems, the alloy frames tend to fail either very early in their "careers" or only after very extended usage. Essentially, if they tend to get past initial factors of over tightening or manufacturing/metallurgical defects, they run successfully for a long time.
From what I have seems, the alloy frames tend to fail either very early in their "careers" or only after very extended usage. Essentially, if they tend to get past initial factors of over tightening or manufacturing/metallurgical defects, they run successfully for a long time.
I like shooting my handguns — a lot. And particularly so for any piece I’m going to carry for self-defense. As such, my only J-Frame is an all steel Model 36.
Send it in and ask for a new 432. 
Marshal Tom
Member
I had a beautiful condition model 12-2 that I actually owned twice. I never shot it or carried it due to the frame cracking issue and the fact that those anodized frames have a tendency to wear poorly when carried. I ended up selling it.
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