I just purchased a 1978 manufactured N Frame revolver that if it hasn't been factory test fired only, doesn't look like it had more than a couple of cylinders full shot through it. The action is a bit sticky. When I buy a used gun my usual procedure is to detail strip it to include the trigger, hammer and rebound slide, give it a thorough cleaning and then lube with a modern gun lubricant.

I have the proper gunsmithing screwdrivers and know how to remove the sideplate by rapping on the grip frame with a plastic mallet until it vibrates free and have done this to dozens of S&W revolvers. However in this case, the gun is in such perfect condition I am apprehensive about removing the sideplate.

My plan is to remove the stocks, crane and cylinder only and then hose the inside of the action with Gunscrubber to dissolve any old varnished oil and then use something like RemOil in an aerosol can to squirt into the action and let thoroughly drain. I understand that with RemOil the carrier will evaporate and leave just the lubricant ingredient.

Is this a sound plan or should I use something more aggressive than Gunscrubber like brake cleaner ? And is chlorinated or non-chlorinated brake cleaner better or does it make no difference ?

Tips & suggestions are welcome.

Many will probably disagree, but tearing down the innards is not that difficult. It allows you to reach, brush, clean, all the parts, on all sides.Generally, I use simple green, saving the brake cleaner stuff for other jobs. Simple green, rinse with water, dry, and wipe down with rag and light oil, like rem oil, CLP, or similar.

Pop the side plate off and give it a good cleaning.

It sounds like you know what you are doing, just use the correct tools and take your time.

BTW, it’s not uncommon to encounter N frames in “almost unfired” condition, often accompanied by a box of ammo with only six rounds missing…

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Richard

My way is to completely disassemble the entire revolver before I shoot it. I clean, inspect and properly and lightly lubricate it prior to reassembly. This way I can check for any burs, defects, rust, (yes I have encountered light rust inside brand new S&W revolvers) etc.

If you are not ready and willing to do the complete detail strip, you could pop the side-plate, take out the hammer block safety which will just fall out, spray it with Gunscrubber and let all the dirt and debris drip out (do outdoors). After you evaporate all the Gunscrubber with an air compressor, MAKE SURE to re-coat all the internal parts with a light lube and rust preventative like Remoil spray afterwards. Gunscrubber removes everything from the metal and leaves it completely raw and prone to rust! Then use an air compressor to blow out all the excess and let the Remoil evaporate (leaves behind some protection). The reason I suggest Remoil (not my favorite gun product by a long shot) is that it is thin and will go everywhere into all nooks and cranny's and will mostly evaporate after doing its job. Using a regular gun oil like a CLP will leave behind too much excess and gunk up the innards. G96 or BF CLP can be used sparingly on pivot points and where parts interact against each other after you use the air compressor to get the Remoil evaporated but regular CLP should not just be indiscriminately squirted in the inside of the revolver.

This method above is obviously not going to be as good as a complete disassembly, but will probably do an adequate job. This could be your golden opportunity to learn how to properly disassemble and re-assemble the complete revolver - it isn't that difficult and once you learn it you will be able to do this on other S&W's as they are all pretty much the same.

Both Birchwood "Gun Scrubber" and many "Brake cleaners" are the same thing, chlorinated hydro-carbon solvents, READ THE LABEL just in a different package and the brake cleaner is far, far, less expensive. So far as chlorinated or non-chlorinated brake cleaners it makes no difference whatsoever. The big difference is where you will be using it! The chlorinated hydro-carbon solvents are more toxic when breathed. As long as there is good ventilation use whichever is cheaper.

You can do as you propose, but properly dis-assembling the gun is more effective. If you choose to use the spray method a small air compressor is always a welcome tool to dry the solvent and blow off the excess oil.

I know many are down on Harbor Freight, but many of their tools are completely adequate for hobby use and inexpensive. I have two air compressors, a small Harbor Freight one for the gun/re-loading room and a 30 gallon Craftsmen in the garage for air tools, sprayers, etc. My 3 gallon from Harbor Freight was about $35 when I bought it ca. 25 years ago. The current equivalent one they have is $59.99.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

I have the skills to remove the sideplate without damaging it and completely disassemble the action, I have done it to many other S&W revolvers. And Colts.

I was just curious if I might be able to get satisfactory results without removing a virgin sideplate. I may try it using the GunScrubber and some RemOil and see if the stickiness goes away and if not then I will proceed with a detail strip and thorough cleaning & lube.

I have used one of those cans of compressed air that are sold to use to clean computers and electronics and it works well in the absence of an air compressor. It is residue and moisiture free. It can get expensive but for just an occasional gun cleaning task it does the job.

I guess I am old school, I just take the grips off and soak my smiths in gasoline. I work the action and swirl the pistol in the gasoline. Pull it out and blow it out with compressed air. Lube by dripping oil in around the hammer and work the action and blow out the excess. I have seen more damage caused by unneeded disassembly than actual use.

I went through this exact thing a couple of years ago. Bought a LNIB 15-2 that looked unfired. Action was sluggish. I hesitated just like you did but I finally gave in and did it carefully. What I saw in there was disgusting. Congealed goop everywhere. Once the sideplate is off there's no real fear of marring any finish so I tore it down completely. Cylinder included Goop everywhere. Owner must have cocked the hammer and squirted oil or something over about 50 years.

By the way, before I tore it down I tried to spray brake cleaner into the action and spray with compressed air. Not only didn't it help, but I think it made it worse. When I opened it up I could see the residue from where the cleaner mixed with the goop.

I too would pull the side plate. Not hard. And give you peace of mind that no gunk is hiding in small places

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Bobby SWCA #4067
SWHF #1144

If you'd rather not remove the sideplate just spray it down as best you can with brake cleaner a couple of times and use compressed air to dry it out. After that oil it as best you can and use compressed air to get the excess out and distribute the oil...it'll probably smooth right out...if not you can always do a complete disassembly

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Life Member GOA and NRA

Why not give Plan A chance and see if the action improves to your satisfaction? Nothing lost if that doesn't suit you. If that seems inadequate take the side plate off...

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

I just picked up an unfired Colt Cobra from 1953. The old lube was so gummy the cylinder would hardly open and close and the action barely worked. I’m fairly comfortable opening a Smith and taking it apart and have done it once on my detective special but Colts are different and myDS was a bit tough to get one spring I back in the correct position so I could get the side plate back on. I think it too thirty minutes to get it back in place.

I wound up flooding it with gun scrubber and then with a long needle put oil on pivot points and then a couple of random drops and then work the action.

I wound up doing this about theee times and after the 3rd everything smoothed out. I sat and worked it for a while between cleaning and oiling then oiled specific point again and now everything functions as it should.

When I’m feeling adventurous some day I’ll open it up and disassemble, clean thoroughly and more carefull lube it. Revolvers don’t need a lot of oil. Mainly just a small drop on points of friction. They’re much like a watch.

If I don't want to remove the side plate for whatever reason, I remove the grips, crane, cylinder and pour Ronson lighter fluid through the openings in the the frame and watch till it begins to run out clear. You'll see the dark dissolved gunk at first. Then I'll blow out the excess with compressed air and lube the gun as normal. The lighter fluid is petroleum based and leaves behind a slight film which protects. I read this was an old timers cleaning trick on another revolver/gunsmithing forum and gave it a try. It worked great for me and I could tell a difference in smoothness of the action when I was done. Obviously safety precautions when using flammable liquids applies.

I bought a Model 19 that was made around mid 80's to 1990. It's action was sluggish. When I opened it I found out the lube had turned to varnish. A good cleaning and lubing fixed it. I'd at least take the side plate off and clean it with naphtha and q tips then lube it.
Do it. You ain't gonna hurt it.

I'm a Gunscrubber Spray cleaner ... when you take off the side plate there is one part than falls out ... watch for it and learn where it goes ...
Assembly diagrams and drawings will ID it .
I hose the innards down , let soak ... repeat untill all old crud is gone (soft tooth brush + gentle scrubbing helps) ... dry and lube .

If I take 'em apart chances are they go to the Gunsmith in a shoebox ... for proper reassembly . The local gunsmith advised me to stop taking them apart ... he was tired of putting them back together !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Only gun I ever needed to bring to a gunsmith to put back together was my old Ruger Mark 2. There are some great videos out there to do it. It helps to have the rebound slide removal tool but other than that it's very easy.

Walter - thanks for asking your question. I have acquired more than a few pre-1960 revolvers, both Colts and Smith & Wessons, but have been nervous about popping the side plate on a pristine, old revolver.

I know how to do it thanks to Jerry Kuhnhausen and plenty of practice with newer, less valuable Smith & Wessons. I had avoided going inside a Colt because of advice from my hand loading mentor. However, I got out my book and screwdrivers when a first-year Colt 3-5-7 wouldn’t carry up correctly. I had hoped that it was gunk inside slowing the action down. There was gunk and I was able to adjust the bolt drop. Unfortunately, the hand needs to be stretched. I still haven’t worked up the nerve to try that task and probably will pay to get it done.

The idea of letting a screwdriver get within 3 feet of my 1916 Colt Officers Model still gives me the heebie-jeebies.

This was in the 1960's ... I had no video's or even books to look at ... no you tube expert to show me the way ...
Just the local Gunsmith ...but he always let me watch him and explained what he was doing .
It were the Dark Ages !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

That gun got sticky somehow. It might be a good idea to pull the sideplate just to see if there is more wrong than old varnish residue. Hope not.

Just a quick reminder that “good enough” rarely is…

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Richard

BTW, semi-auto's are also subject to getting pretty gritty and gunked up - especially hen shooting reloaded lead bullets. I completely disassemble, clean, oil and reassemble my Colt 1911 GCNM at least twice a year. Note: I do shoot it more than any other handgun I own! After 6 months it gets 2,500-3,000 rounds through it. Suffice it to say, this pistol has a plethora of rounds through it!!! Normal cleaning will not get the crud out of the firing pin tunnel, extractor tunnel, and what works its way into the sear, trigger and linkage areas. The whole process takes about 60 - 75 minutes and I take my time and enjoy.