M64-2 Sharp edges, advice.

mckenney99

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I spent all day Sunday taking a snubby revolver class using a M64-2 2inch that I picked up here on this Forum. The M64 shot great but I did wind up shedding some blood due to some sharp spots that I would like to smooth out. Before I get out the Dremel and some Cratex bits, I figured I better get some advice.

Sharp Point#1. The cylinder latch thumb piece has a tendency to chew on my strong hand thumb. I believe the thumb piece is solid stainless so I am fairly confident that I can smooth off those offending sharp spots without any real issues. Has anyone else had this issue and have any suggestions or tips?

Sharp Point #2. This M64-2 has a narrow serrated trigger (the only S&W revolver I own that has this trigger). After a short number of drills I had already gone past the blister point to the bleeding point. The offending hot spot is on the bottom of the trigger finger where it contacts the bottom of the trigger bow. Am I correct in assuming this trigger is NOT stainless but flash chromed tool steel? Is it possible to polish/meld the serrations at the bottom of the trigger without going through the flash chrome? I am not talking about completely removing the serrations, I just want to try and take the bite out of the bottom edge of the trigger. (At least I hope that would take care of the issue.)
Once again I would most likely just be using Cratex bits, no files or grinding bits.
Would I be better off trying to find a smooth trigger and then find someone to install/fit it for me? Numrich has new M64 stripped smooth triggers in stock but I assume the individual parts from my trigger would need to be transferred into the new trigger and there is likely to be fitting involved?
 

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Every S&W revolver I own with a serrated trigger has had the Cratex treatment. I don't give didly about removing the bluing or flash chrome, what I don't want is a revolver that leaves me bleeding after a box of ammo. My model 36 was the worst offender, it was a Sock Drawer Special that had never been fired and featured a 14.5 lbs. DA trigger weight and factory sharpened serrations on the trigger. That one drew blood after just 10 rounds fired. Note, in addition to the serrations I also installed a Wolff Spring kit and the DA trigger is now just over 9 lbs and 100% reliable with Remington UMC ammunition. Note, in my testing of primer sensitivity the Remington UMC features the hardest primer's I've ever shot, in comparison CCI is much more sensitive. Someday if I get ambitious enough I may rust blue the polished surfaces but in 4 years it still looks like the day I did the serrations.

PS; A Sock Drawer Special is a gun that was purchased new and then stored under socks in the sock drawer. The tipoff for these is it will have a 100% perfect finish expect for one side that will have teeny tiny rust freckles scattered randomly on just one side. My theory is the freckles are on the side laying on the raw wood in the sock drawer.
 
I have had the serrations taken out on a 10-6, three 36s, a 64-1, 65-2,
66-1 and a 67. Never any finish issues. The case hardened ones are cold blued on the face. The stainless or flash chromed ones are shiny. All great for double action work. Have never had any issues with sharp edges on a cylinder release.
 

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I don't understand why S&W put serrated triggers on "fighting" guns. I do have a 6 inch M14-1 with the serrated trigger, it's not an issue on a target gun & it's not nearly as sharp as on this M64-2.
 
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