Recommend a Gunsmithing Bench Block
- Thread starter X-Raycer
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
I have been using one like this for over 20 years
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Block-Non-Slip-Universal-Armorers/dp/B0CLP4HL1B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1W7B5HQVWIRO6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4-38cnDRpfN3nClvnBLxE7e68I2BpQKeocI51MsUA8hpKpJ6AqyAomGDzcINLahxNh90FC5dviasQWGtQXVOQfgvvEdpDJ54RcMgyj25978h7ytBRDLaKCNy3Y9NK2NOVy2cW4bPCHXJ9qcy-ONbY7Tk2VXzhnsJldix8WURg1U9XpZkrBA-JGHDoJ5NHWdk28yMHPnQmGWm5F4Dk1sJW_euv0qG49PkCMriQk8jP8Ak_JMkYo7Ocs-tI-6UCj-e0nbrJsbRZTnfZie4fv_dX9-vOfCnHVnPy2YlylzPGz8.RITNKj8ecgC2shoN1rYIzzthHz12FpAzpfi-lTYxlVg&dib_tag=se&keywords=bench+block&qid=1740748599&refinements=p_72%3A1248957011&rnid=1248955011&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bench+block%2Caps%2C726&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1[/ame]
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Block-Non-Slip-Universal-Armorers/dp/B0CLP4HL1B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1W7B5HQVWIRO6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4-38cnDRpfN3nClvnBLxE7e68I2BpQKeocI51MsUA8hpKpJ6AqyAomGDzcINLahxNh90FC5dviasQWGtQXVOQfgvvEdpDJ54RcMgyj25978h7ytBRDLaKCNy3Y9NK2NOVy2cW4bPCHXJ9qcy-ONbY7Tk2VXzhnsJldix8WURg1U9XpZkrBA-JGHDoJ5NHWdk28yMHPnQmGWm5F4Dk1sJW_euv0qG49PkCMriQk8jP8Ak_JMkYo7Ocs-tI-6UCj-e0nbrJsbRZTnfZie4fv_dX9-vOfCnHVnPy2YlylzPGz8.RITNKj8ecgC2shoN1rYIzzthHz12FpAzpfi-lTYxlVg&dib_tag=se&keywords=bench+block&qid=1740748599&refinements=p_72%3A1248957011&rnid=1248955011&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bench+block%2Caps%2C726&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1[/ame]
mckenney99
Member
The one I use the most I made out of a hockey puck. I drilled a hole all the way through in the middle and others in strategic locations. I cut a "V" groove down the middle on one side on the table saw. The rubber material really helps to keep items from slipping around and it is non-marring. +CHEAP!
I use a roll of duct tape.
I've had this one maybe 10-12 years. I like it because it won't scratch your gun. But, occasionally I need to have the part against solid steel to get a stuck pin knocked out.
adrianolsen
Member
I've been using a 1 1/2 x 6 block of Delron for 20+. Most versatile. Block, punch for adjustment, non maring
I pour lead into the bottom of an emty clean tin can. About an inch deep, maybe a little less.
Coffee can dia works good for me.
When cooled, peel the tin can way and there's your bench block.
I drill a couple of holes into it, some thru it.
The bottom side will be smoother than the top as it will have been 'cast' against the bottom of the can. But both are usefull.
It never bounces around when driving pins out!
It conforms to odd part shapes easily when needed which I find helpful when polishing on them.
I often open the vise jaws wide enough so the lead block is supported by them. Then place the block on top and work right on it there.
Up high is easier to see (for me) and the heavy lead block doesn't bounce around nor mar any part finish.
Usefull for a weight when gluing stuff together on some projects.
After a time when the surface is beat up enough and un-even to suit you,,re-melt the lead and pour another.
I haven't found the need to do that with the 3 or 4 I have around on the various benches in quite a while though.
They are looking pretty sad of late, but they still do what they need to do.
Coffee can dia works good for me.
When cooled, peel the tin can way and there's your bench block.
I drill a couple of holes into it, some thru it.
The bottom side will be smoother than the top as it will have been 'cast' against the bottom of the can. But both are usefull.
It never bounces around when driving pins out!
It conforms to odd part shapes easily when needed which I find helpful when polishing on them.
I often open the vise jaws wide enough so the lead block is supported by them. Then place the block on top and work right on it there.
Up high is easier to see (for me) and the heavy lead block doesn't bounce around nor mar any part finish.
Usefull for a weight when gluing stuff together on some projects.
After a time when the surface is beat up enough and un-even to suit you,,re-melt the lead and pour another.
I haven't found the need to do that with the 3 or 4 I have around on the various benches in quite a while though.
They are looking pretty sad of late, but they still do what they need to do.
geeollie
Member
Before I had any money I used a 2x4. Using a router to make a couple v grooves and drilled some holes.
Once I got into money I went to using hockey pucks like mckenney99 said.
Some Academy's Sports sell them.
Once I got into money I went to using hockey pucks like mckenney99 said.
Some Academy's Sports sell them.
kev74
Member
I use a hockey puck as well.
JohnHL
SWCA Member
A piece of scrap wood with some holes drilled into it.
John
John
Made my home one out of a brass block, my travelling kit one out of an aluminum block. Just used what I had around, and when I needed oil, I drilled for it.
Yeah sure, you can use a block of wood, a roll of tape, etc., but if you want something nice, I'd look at this;
Master Bench Block(R) Pro-Kit
– Real Avid
Master Bench Block(R) Pro-Kit
– Real Avid
I bought a bunch of hockey pocks. I milled a rounded groove in a couple. Have several holes drilled in them. 2 of them will support most revolvers. Sometimes with a long barrel I will add a 3rd. No marring but solid enough that if your driving a pin they don't absorb the energy. I also have a brass block
Jeppo
SWCA Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,298
- Reaction score
- 30,211
I do a fair amount of smithin' and I have two blocks I regularly use. The steel one is a Starrett and was my Grandfather's. The "soft" one I made myself from an old hockey puck. Over the years I've made probably a dozen or so. I do replace them when they get too ugly and have made some for friends. I basically use the hockey puck more than the steel and it works superbly. I basically just copied the design of the steel Starrett and used a hacksaw to cut the V. I find the hockey pucks are dense, stand up a long time, soft enough that they won't harm any gun but still hard enough to perform well as a gun block. Drilling and cutting them is pretty easy but does create a minor mess - no biggie, cleans up easily!
My son used to play hockey as a kid so I have a bunch laying around. BTW, I also use regular uncut pucks to support and level out guns when working on them. They are an excellent shop "tool" to have.
My son used to play hockey as a kid so I have a bunch laying around. BTW, I also use regular uncut pucks to support and level out guns when working on them. They are an excellent shop "tool" to have.
Attachments
I also use a commercial steel bench block and one I made from a hockey puck.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,298
- Reaction score
- 30,211
The pucks I have are regulation NHL pucks and work great. Don’t know too much about them and their variations however I would think any NHL approved puck would be virtually the same.
