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    Regular 642 or 642pro

    Why not just five cartridges in another moon clip? You'll be able to reload faster and it's a smaller package in your pocket.
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    S&W revolvers of today vs. yesteryear-which are better?

    Happily, it didn't turn out that way. For the most part I have felt this a positive, objective discussion.
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    S&W revolvers of today vs. yesteryear-which are better?

    Before last week I believed there could be no comparison between older S&W revolvers and new ones. Of the six I own, issue dates range from 1917 to 1970. Three are pre-war and my S-prefix M&P dates to 1947. I regarded my 1964 19-2 and 1971 36-1 as being as "new" as I'd probably ever own...
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    Color change in a blued cylinder

    I have a very nice M&P from the early to mid-thirties (6275xx) that is not a reblue that has a plum-colored cylinder. I find it both interesting and attractive. I have a K-22 Outdoorsman that's just a bit newer (6574xx) with a cylinder without a trace of the plum color. But . . . my S-prefix...
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    Question: Re 1917 Rifling and Lead Bullets

    I have read on this forum and others that S&W 1917 revolvers have shallow rifling and prefer jacketed bullets. It seems to be implied that they won't provide acceptable accuracy with lead bullets. Is this based on a long-accepted theory or actual experience by people participating on this forum...
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    Pachmyer Stocks?

    The Pachmayr "Presentation" grips fit my 1917 (made in 1917) perfectly. Naturally, this is with the lanyard ring off. However . . . Look carefully at the inner surfaces of Pachmayr grips before installing them. On two pairs that I own, one for a 1911 and the other for N-frame S&Ws just...
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    Early Model 1917 value assistance please

    Get some full moon clips. They're easier to load and unload with cartridges than half moon clips and they're available everywhere.
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    1917 Mystery Mark

    I have a relatively early (sn 307xx) with the "GHS" marking. On the lower region of the left side of the frame is what I would describe as a "Maltese Cross" mark. Is anyone here familiar with this? I've also included overall photos, as this gun is in very nice condition. At some time during its...
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    Need Help with M36-1 SN

    I'll try to get some up this afternoon. This is a really nice little revolver that was pristine when I bought it several years ago. The grips were perfect, but being post-1968, no diamonds. Well, I picked up a perfect pair of diamond grips (dated 1956) this weekend at a gun show. They really...
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    Need Help with M36-1 SN

    I have a cute little M36-1 square butt with a three-inch barrel. I'm trying to date it, but its serial number doesn't exactly comply with the format in the SCSW. Or, I'm not able to interpolate correctly. The serial number is 18J9xx. This format is similar to the 1971-1972 range of J1-999J99...
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    Help with History of the Hammer Block?

    What was S&W's motivation to add the hammer block after WWII? Had there been accidental discharges resulting from guns being dropped on the hammer? Was it marketing? Or, was this just a preventative measure anticipating a possible AD from a dropped gun? I have a couple prewar models (M&P and...
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    Grip Checkering Border Transition

    When did grip checkering make its transition from the finer checkering pattern with a hand-excised border to the coarser checkering with the routed border? How long were magnas made with the finer checkering and hand-excised border?
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    M36-1 Square Butt Frame Question

    It honestly doesn't affect double-action mode. In fact, that's why I put it there. Shooting the M36 (or any other S&W with a serrated) trigger isn't a problem in single-action mode. It's double-action mode that makes my finger sore. I didn't want to visibly alter the gun, but I did sand the...
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    M36-1 Square Butt Frame Question

    The stocks fit perfectly, but but the bluing loss is not from wear. They are original -- all numbers match. The "corners" have been reshaped after bluing. Thanks for the lead on posting photos.
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    M36-1 Square Butt Frame Question

    I have a delightful M36-1 square butt with a three-inch barrel. What has always puzzled me is that the corners of the butt of the frame were rounded after the frame was blued. Was this done in the factory? Or, was it done by a previous owner? In other words, were the corners of the frame...
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    Ok to dry fire?

    Really cheap, reliable .22 Snap Caps I have a .22 Outdoorsman (1937) that I wouldn't dream of dry firing without snap caps. I won't take credit for discovering this, but here's the absolute best solution for .22 snap caps I've found. They're hollow wall anchors for #4-#6 screws. A box of 100...
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    gold (brass) medallions

    I don't have the answer, but I can complicate the question. My pre-war Outdoorsman (1937), post-war pre-10 M&P (1947ish), and 36-1 (1971) all have brass medallions. Polished with Brasso, they all appear to have been manufactured the same day even though their ages differ by almost 35 years...
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    Model 36 3" Brl. Need input

    Just about a year ago I paid $471.70 for a Model 36-1 just as you describe. The odd-ball number comes from the fact that the seller was asking $500 and I was going to have to pay 6% sales tax. He fiddled with the price so I could have it for $500 OTD. Not meaning to highjack the thread, but . ...
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    (Found!) WTB: S&W 19-2 6" Barrel

    A forum member helped me find one. My life is now complete, so I no longer need the WTB ad. I'm entering this copy because I don't know how to delete the ad.
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