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Problem fixed Mine came back a couple weeks ago and I just got to the range on Sunday. The problem was the Hand on mine as well. The original came with a burr on it which I could feel. Now after a couple hundred rounds everything works as it should with no hiccups of any kind. S&W had it for 3...

Same problem I have one of the Talo Wood grip 686+ purchased late last year. Mine's a 3". And I ran into the same problem. I put a Wolff hammer spring in and the FTF were over the top so I went to Wilson Combat's spring. Same problem and about once per cylinder I had the same thing, hitting a...

I bought a SD40VE yesterday and cleaned and lubed it last night and was at the range today. I love it. The trigger is not much different from dozens of DA revolvers and I got into 3" groups at 12 yards quickly. The groups opened when I started to increase the speed but mine always do. 70 rounds...

Thank you I really enjoyed all the new and nearly forgotten info on what was my first center fire semi-auto. I bought my 4006 in late 1992 or early 1993. I was a true blue 686 shooter and the idea of a pistol that closed the gap between the 9MM and the .357 intrigued me. I've owned alot of...

A friend just purchased a good looking 659. It's a tank. We got it sighted in but the trigger needs work. Double action must be 12 lbs or more and gritty. The single action has a lot of take-up, enough to throw off your aim, and the final 1/4" is tough to release with any consistency. If your...

It's a beauty. I talked to S&W today about barreling my 6" No Dash with a 4" and when they said 6-9 month turnaround I said no thanks.

I'm curious, why that bullet at max? Bearing surface for accuracy?

Put my name in the hat. I'm getting close to needing LCT parts again. It's my favorite set-up. Faster than single-stage-less complicated and expensive than a full auto press. Thanks for the offering!

I'm with Fred on this all the way. Power Pistol is a great metering powder made especially for auto-pistols. I've shot more 10X's with it than anything else in .40's. I also use WSF as a Unique replacement for all cast bullet loads. It too meters well, is cleaner than Unique and is a medium...

I had the Modification done on a No-Dash 3 years ago. I believe it was on a gun from the 2nd year of production of the 686's. I think you got a rookie on the phone. Call again

I started loading .357 with Blue Dot in 1990. The load books were all over the place back then. I had Sierra, Hornady and Speer. Sierra was hottest and Speer was the lightest. I was seeing some occasional pressure signs in the Sierra loads but I suspected the brass. One brand wasn't standing up...

Here's my .02 worth. I've been loading BP and Pyrodex products since 1980. Use a FFFG grade powder or Pyrodex Pistol or an equivelent in a .38 case, measure by volume ( a dipper is a simple way to do it, use a consistant scooping action and stroke off the excess with a playing card: your SD...

nice work! I like the grey/blue format-thanks again for all the work you put into this forum.

Late to the party... I have the same rifle and I've had the same problem. I started with full-length resized Fed. cases, trimmed all, fired in the rifle, neck resized and could only chamber a few of them. I went back to full-length resize and have never had another failure to chamber. Accuracy...

No matter how rounds it has, the 686 4" is a sweet gun. There are lots of good holster choices and it's about the max length for carry. With the right rig it will ride close to the body and there a couple good shoulder rigs too. You will fall in love with it. With steady hands and young eyes you...

I agree on the Missouri Bullets for sure. I ordered 1000 170SWC .40's last Friday and they'll be here by Tuesday, for sure. Total cost $86 delivered to my door. I switch back and forth between WSF and Power Pistol as my .40 lead powder. WSF is my first choice. My range gun likes bullets in the...

I saw a picture on this forum some time back of a pretty 5" 686 with a FO front sight, wood grip and polish finish. I'm thinking about having a no dash M rebarreled and dressed up at the factory. The factory parts list shows the 5" bbl. at $139 and has a suffix of CH on the part name. My first...

According to the factory parts list the cost of a 4" bbl is $132 so I'd be looking at $192 plus shipping. I'm still thinking it over. The other posts have me second guessing myself.

i reload so I have lots of choices. If I shoot anything less than 1000fps my point of aim has to change because the .38's always group higher. I prefer to shoot point of aim so I stick with mag loads ranging from the 1000fps 158SWC to full boat H110 or Blue Dot loads with 140JHP's.

I want to rebarrel my old 686 from 6" to 4". Anyone have a factory rebarrel? How much? Or, should I go to an independent gunsmith? How much?