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I am 66 now. At 7 yards with my snubbies in double action, my goal is 3" groups centered on the bull's eye. If I have a flyer that spreads it out to 4" or so, that's still OK. If my group spreads beyond that, it's generally because I relaxed my grip a little or just wasn't focusing hard on...

Back in 1972 when I was in Basic Training we were trained on the boyonet and trenching tool the same day. The trenching was highly recommended (more highly so than the bayonet -- especially so given that when afixed to an M16 there was not much length or weight to work with).

If TALO's claim to fame included inspecting the guns, you'd think they'd put it in their marketing materials. Can you imagine: "Buy a S&W revolver that's actually been inspected!"

Try the Ahrends tacticals. Great fit and finish. Several kinds of wood offered over the years. BTW, I thought those fancy deluxe grips on the 686-6 Plus were really cool until I bought the gun and tried shooting it with those grips. The finger grooves don't match my medium to large hands...

I have a bunch of revolvers chambered for .357, but for home defense they are all loaded with .38 Special. Cops used it for 100 years and they did OK. Cordially, Ashlander

The word "collection" may not approriate, but rather an accumulation. I too have a lot of guns I had wanted but never shoot. I sold some to folks who were willing to pay me a lot more than I had paid. Others I sold break-even or even at a some loss just because I didn't see them appreciating...

In 9mm I have a nice CZ75 BD (Police), but in 45 ACP, I went with the Sar K2-45. That's 14 + 1 rounds! What a gun. It's 40 ounces unloaded, so it must be a ton with a full mag. So I'll never carry it, but for home defense in close quarters..... I got it for less that $600 new in 2012 (with...

I've had my K6S since the year of their intro. I haven't even dreamed of shooting magnum loads. I did that with my Model 60 when I first got it in 2008. I can't remember if I even got through the whole cylinder. I shot some too out of a SP101 many years ago and it was brutal (to use your...

I sold my SP101 and my S&W J-frames after I shot my K6S for a while. Much better all around gun. I also have a new Taurus 856 (6 shot snubby of the same size and weight). It's a back-up to the Kimber. It's trigger is comparable to my old S&W Model 60.

I have had my K6S snubbie for well over a year (maybe 2 by now). I carry it in the same holter I used to carry my S&W Model 60 in. The K6S is only a tiny bit wider and an ounce heavier. The trigger on the K6S is really nice and as pointed out in an early comment it is very easy to stage and...

I have the 856 in stainless. Great carry gun (on the waist under a Hawaiian shirt). I have that and a Kimber K6S in my rotation (both 6 shot snubbies). I carry them in a holster designed for my old S&W Model 60-14 (which I sold -- just didn't need a 5-shooter anymore).

Goodness gracious!!! That's an unreal price. Good job.

You seriously think that fixed sights on a gun render it no more accurate than "random hits?" Just as an example, there are a multitude of guys on this forum who think a 3" Model 65 is one of the best carry guns ever. The DEA used them until they switched to semis. The FBI used the blued...

I have always thought they put adjustable sights on their revolvers so they wouldn't have to regulate them at the factory. I like my model 64s and 65s and my J-frames precisely because I can count on them to give me accuracy "out-of-box", while adjustable sights - I have to adjust them. Of...

So, not only do you stand to lose the money you paid for the gun, but you paid good money to a smith to replace the rear blade sight. Add to that the let down of having finally found a gun you had been wanting for years only to have it go kaput after a relatively few minutes of range time. I'd...

I had both a low back and a high back Speed Six. The low back tends to want to roll back in your hand on recoil. The more vertical rise of the high back where the web of your hand meets the gun is much better at minimizing the roll. I sold the low back.

In terms of accuracy, I suppose it is enough to say they are accurate enough to shoot human sized targets at intermediate distances (I was always happy if I shot a 3" group at 100 yards). They are certainly rugged. Some 20 years or so ago I was told they cost one tenth what an M-16 took to...

In terms of something dragging -- all my S&W revvolvers took some time to smooth out -- I'd wait after several hundred shots or a thousand dry fires (with snap caps -- with that many dry fires - I want the firing pin hitting something) before taking any drastic action. On the question of...

I had the same problem and the same lines. Rather than buying a special reamer, I used a wooden dowel of slightly less diameter than a 22 casing and super glued some 320 grit wet-dry around it the length of a 22 casing. It snugged in and I turned it by hand a couple minutes in each chamber...

I used a wooden dowel of slightly less diameter than a 22 casing and super glued some 320 grit wet-dry around it the length of a 22 casing. It snugged in and I turned it by hand a couple minutes in each chamber. Then I turned a cleaning patch with a bit of Mothers Mag polish to the same length...