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I've just taken to ordering whatever components/rounds online or randomly picking up stuff when I go by somewhere that has something. Ordered a brick of .22 and 200 .44-40 brass just before Christmas. Came in fine.

Excellent transaction, kept me informed of progress and item was as promised and delivered quickly.

Why not just fire them and see if these marks affect anything?

My $.02 is if you're a shooter, and it's a shooter, then just shoot it as is. It's not like it's going to be a competition or a carry gun, so, to my mind, its inherent accuracy is all you would need and there a way more better things to spend that kind of money on.

You need to decide which ones you like the most. Nothing says you have to have all pre-#, or N-, K-, etc. frames. Of course, I'm sorry to see you've wasted your money on that Pre 24 with 4" barrel, nickel. I will take it off your hands and save you the aggro of having to decide on that one. No...

Maybe people's hand were smaller or less fatty or something making the older grips not as bad back then? Or maybe people didn't shoot as much recreationally as we do nowadays?

I have 2 A3's and a receiver plus various spare parts. I'm torn between building an A4 clone or simply using the receiver as the basis for a custom rifle. I'm happy I can finally afford the rifles I've always wanted.

Why did you buy it if you didn't know what to use it for?

That gun may be dangerous to shoot, but I'll give you $100 for it!

credit to Jim Croce: He had a .32 gun in his pocket for fun/ he had a rzor in his shoe!

27, 29, 28. Quit messing about!

I agree and endorse this viewpoint.

My only thought is that in a garage there are any number of pounding or prying type implements immediately at hand that may keep a thief interested in that safe far longer than an inside safe. Even if he had to keep running back and forth to that same garage to try another implement, it would...

Items were as described, delivered promptly and it was an easy transaction to complete.

It would probably help if you'd give some idea of y'alls location and where you're willing to travel and any bona fides in re experience/competence. JMHO. I will be watching this thread to see the responses. Good luck.

I wonder about using chain oil or lubricant. Seems like it would have significan wear inhibitors. I notice Lubriplate makes a line of rifle grease and chain oils.

PM sent on #1 & #2.

A knife. Something always needs cutting.

I always look for wear or impressions around the firing pin hole inside the frame behind the cylinder. Search GunBroker and look at all the pictures and you'll see the differences. Also depends on are you looking for a shooter or a collector/safe gun?

I'll take #1 & #2. PM to follow.