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Just a couple of shooting tips not necessarily related to your original question... First, replace the recoil spring. In my experience they take a terrible set, and after maybe 700 rounds can shorten excessively. They will also shorten just sitting there inder tension. S&W really cheaped out in...

Looking at the photo, there seems to be nothing in the way of pulling the trigger back.

Oh, also, you have to pull the cylinder release button to the rear when doing this or the hand will hang up and not rotate forward... sorry I left that out before.

Pull the trigger to the rear. The hand will rotate forward enough to get out of the way of the hammer foot and with the hammer at full cock position you should be able to lift it out of the frame.

Okay, now next question: Anybody have any experience or info on whether this stuff works as a release agent for epoxy bedding? I use Kiwi clear shoe polish and I've also heard of using Johnson's paste wax. I know Ren Wax is more expensive and maybe no actual advantage there, so the question...

Years and years ago, I was a firearms instructor in the old U.S. Customs Service. Back when we used the CS-1 (686) .357's. We offered the officers the option of using .38+p or .357. Over years, I noticed no flame cutting with the +p or with Federal 357s (I'm thinking they used flake powder.)...

This sounds like you may be using steel cased Russian ammunition. This stuff has a lacquer coating on the case to lubricate it during function. If a round is placed into a hot or warm chamber and allowed to sit while things cool off (doesn't take very long) the lacquer melts and then solidifies...

It might be good if something about this could be added to the FAQ. I always like to follow factory methods if possible....

As far as the barrel step shoulder, probably not much, but it has to be enough to hold and can likely be faced off a few thousandths in order to close up the barrel cylinder gap. And I agree with the reverse engineering approach to see how much torque it takes to loosen. Good idea.

Thanks. I think I will try something like approach #1 and use cerro safe. I feel comfortable using it, and my thought is that if the load is,spread out over the entire barrel diameter, all 5 grooves, and in an approximately 2 inch long section, then it should be able to take some decent torque...

I was thinking of something along the lines of approach #1. Do you think something like Cerro safe would work? #2 reminds me of an old fashioned shotgun barrel expandable dent raiser. I I think I would feel safer using #1. Does anybody know what the torque specification is? I know the factory...

Sure... I do gunsmithing. .. only been at it 44 years or so and I guess that makes me a newbie. So I'd like the tool to be able to do barrel replacement in these guns. More specifically, I have a new model 66-8 myself. I'm very happy with it, but the crown has a few burs and the barrel...

I understand that the wrench/tool for unscrewing and reinstalling the new 2 piece barrels in the 66, 69, etc. Are not available from the factory. I just read in another post that supposedly the factory gunsmiths "make their own. " So.... has anybody yet managed to unearth plans or instructions...

Excellent idea. Good tools give service and pleasure for a long time, and are never a waste of money.....

Here's the way I look at it... I see little conflict between magnetic replaceable bits and classic wood or plastic handled screwdrivers. They are both quality products and both can work well. So get which ever floats your boat. Personally, I just love tools of all sorts, I've been into this...

Since the OP specified a non- magnetic tip screwdriver, I can give Grace a good recommendation. .. have used them for years myself with no problems. If you break one they say they will replace it. .. I've never had to test that one. As above, I would just get the set and have done with it...

Big D et al.... Didn't mean to start a ruckus, and it wasn't I who implied anything adverse. I think you pretty well answered my question, that professional LEO'S have no problem with LEOSA. Several situations can occur in which LE "becomes aware" that one is armed, that don't amount to...

Re: Massachusetts and Connecticut... I recently did my LEOSA qualification in Maine, have my retired creds and a qualification card issued by the Maine Criminal Justice Academy. I'm wondering if anybody here who is a non-resident of either Mass or Conn, who carries in either state under LEOSA...

Ed: I did,shoot mine. How did you think I got "excessive leading?" Cowboy: I've worked in retail and as a gunsmith for 44 years. Smith's people were very polite, and their return time was just fine. One reason for the return was that customers looked at the barrel and went, "Yuck!!" At...

I'm following this one too. I recently had a similar issue with the barrel interior finish in a new 6" 586. There were burrs around the forcing cone and two of the rifling grooves were dark, one more than the other, and collected excessive leading. Inspection with a borescope showed a rough...