2 piece barrel tool

[H47]

I understand that the wrench/tool for unscrewing and reinstalling the new 2 piece barrels in the 66, 69, etc. Are not available from the factory. I just read in another post that supposedly the factory gunsmiths "make their own. "
So.... has anybody yet managed to unearth plans or instructions for making these tools, or alternatively has anybody explored making them "freelance?"

 

[colt_saa]

I understand that the wrench/tool for unscrewing and reinstalling the new 2 piece barrels in the 66, 69, etc. Are not available from the factory. I just read in another post that supposedly the factory gunsmiths "make their own. "
So.... has anybody yet managed to unearth plans or instructions for making these tools, or alternatively has anybody explored making them "freelance?"

Can I ask Why do you want one?

Do you have a project in mind?

 

[H47]

Sure... I do gunsmithing. .. only been at it 44 years or so and I guess that makes me a newbie. So I'd like the tool to be able to do barrel replacement in these guns.
More specifically, I have a new model 66-8 myself. I'm very happy with it, but the crown has a few burs and the barrel cylinder gap is .011". So I would like to dismount the barrel and put it in my lathe to clean up the crown (I do a bunch of barrel work and like to lathe cut crowns where possible ). I'd also like to explore facing off the shoulder that tightens inside the shroud in order to adjust the barrel cylinder gap.
I know I can send it back to the factory, but don't go there. I just had a very unsatisfactory experience with another gun I sent back and I ain't going there again.

 

[steelslaver]

If I wanted to remove one of the 2 piece barrels I would try 2 approaches.

1. take and make a piecee of brass or square or hex stock that fit down the barrel, plug the forcing cone, warm barrel assembly and brass to about 300f then pour some molten low temp solder that melts below 250 in barrel and insert brass stock. Let cool and use a frame wrench and something to hold brass stock. Once I was done heat it back up to remove solder. I would not use any flux. You can buy solder that melts as low as 117f. Indalloy 158 melts at 158f and has a tensile strength of about 6000. Should clean out easy at 200f when your done.

2. Machine a 4" piece of say 3/4" brass so 3" of it just slips down the barrel. Then make a hex or square head on the remaining 1", drill the hole thing to say .15 then ream it with a tapered pin reamer. Turn a smooth steel pin with the same taper. Then drill and tap the large end to 1/4 20 or 24. Then use slitting disks on a dremmel or a mill with a slitter blade (you can use a real small circle saw blade mounted on and arbor) to slice the barrel piece of the rod length ways in 4 places. I guess you could also slice it with a band saw. Insert in barrel, insert pin, screw in set screw to press tapered rod down the tapered piece hole in the brass so swell the slit pieces tight against the rifling. Kind of a backwards collet. Should give you a good bite on the inside of the barrel without damaging it and allow you to turn it out with the frame held by a frame wench.

 

[H47]

I was thinking of something along the lines of approach #1. Do you think something like Cerro safe would work?
#2 reminds me of an old fashioned shotgun barrel expandable dent raiser.
I I think I would feel safer using #1.
Does anybody know what the torque specification is? I know the factory wants to treat all this like it's some sort of mystical sacred secret squirrel ju-ju, and that approach really ticks me off. Just makes me more determined...

 

[steelslaver]

I have never used Cerro safe and I am not sure how strong it is. I don't see how it could hurt anything to try it and have it fail to hold. If you set your extractor up with a head that you could attach a torque wrench to you could get an idea when you loosen the barrel. The torque to loosen one should be the same as to tighten one. I would think it is about the same as a normal barrel.

Yer the the thing about approach #2 is how thick is the barrel, but it takes a lot more force to expand small bore tubing than large bore of the same thickness. I have to think that a 357 caliber barrel is thicker than a 12 gauge. I wonder how much step there is in the barrel at the muzzle where it shoulders to the shroud.

Your like me. Don't try to lock me out of working on something.

 

[H47]

Thanks. I think I will try something like approach #1 and use cerro safe. I feel comfortable using it, and my thought is that if the load is,spread out over the entire barrel diameter, all 5 grooves, and in an approximately 2 inch long section, then it should be able to take some decent torque.
I'm going to get some 5/8" brass hex stock and devise something for an in-the-bore section. Maybe leave a 2 inch long hex protruding for a socket to attach. That would make a nice heat sink to heat with a torch.
You've got to think that if the factory gunsmiths "make their own," it can't be too complicated and is probably reusable too.
Would be interesting to get ahold of one and pick his brain. Or find out if there's any info coming out of the current armorers courses..

 

[H47]

As far as the barrel step shoulder, probably not much, but it has to be enough to hold and can likely be faced off a few thousandths in order to close up the barrel cylinder gap.
And I agree with the reverse engineering approach to see how much torque it takes to loosen. Good idea.

 

[H47]

It might be good if something about this could be added to the FAQ. I always like to follow factory methods if possible....

 

[steelslaver]

Please keep us updated on your experiences with this. I have 3 guns with 2 piece barrels. No plans to work on any off them, but you never know what the future holds.

Like you I wish S&W would relese some information on things like this.