I assume its the same for at least the 2 through 4.

How in the heck do you get the battery cover to consistantly start the threads?

This specific III is new to me, and was an open box. The cover was chewed up, and Burris sent me a new cover, because they are AWESOME! Anyway, it starts fine without a battery, but with a battery in there, it just teeters back and forth, and won't stay flat long enough to get it rotated and start the threads. Its maddening.

Now I see why other manufacturers' newer designs use a battery tray on the side.

as an aside, I buy a lot of my optics used, but only buy manufacturers with a lifetime warranty, and not requiring the original receipt. Burris, Vortex, Athlon and Primary Arms for example.

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NRA RSO

I must say I don't usually have any trouble with my FFIII. I sometimes do rotate the cover CCW until I can feel the threads drop into each other (a very subtle feeling). The fact that you can install the cover without the battery makes me think that the battery's maybe not lined up right? Just a thought.

I use a wide blade screwdriver that fits the slot in the cover. Then push down while rotating CCW. When the cover is level compared to the housing at the front, start turning CW, still pushing down. Usually that gets it started correctly. That is a good red dot, but the battery cover on those can definitely be problematic.

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protocalldesign.com

As an addendum when you are turning the cover CCW you will hear a feint click. This is when you change direction to CW as the threads have now aligned.

this is my 3rd FF3. The other two are easier.

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NRA RSO

I own a couple, and that cover can be tricky. Counter rotating til you feel that slight click, then tightening seems to work for me. The sliding tray design like on my Vortex Razor is much more convenient.

Larry

If I recall correctly, the FFII takes a 2032 battery and the FFIII takes a 1632 battery. I agree, the FFIII battery cover is prompting me to use inappropriate language, but I prefer it to the FFII that requires complete removal from the base to change the battery. Usually requiring re-sighting in. But I like both. I just wish the FFII had a 6 moa dot as I use it outdoors quite a bit on my 617. The FFIII sits on my Bullseye gun and the 3 moa is fine.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I fought with a new FFIII and the battery that came with it for a while at my desk with lighting and a magnifying lamp,,, screw that nonsense. I returned it, Really sorry design. If it is that difficult at a desk, imagine doing it at a gun range.
Try a couple different batteries, hair difference in thickness may help

I just put a new battery in a FF III tonight. I used the tiny, included screw driver, turned the cover counter-clockwise, then clockwise to tighten it down. It started just fine, I switched to a larger screw driver when it began to tighten, then used the rim of a .45 ACP case to snug it down.

I never would have thought that tiny little driver would have done the trick.

A number of manufacturers do it this way, so there is at least some reason behind it.

I have had Burris replace several chewed up battery covers over the years. Their customer service is excellent, and I presume they understand that the design is a compromise, and having covers available is just good business to placate customers.

I have an account of sorts with them, and I can send an e-mail from their support website, and they recognize my e-mail and everything else is on file. The cover shows up in a week or so. I have gotten mounting screws, and several Signature ring inserts as well.

Vortex customer service is also top notch.

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NRA RSO

As a long time FFIII user, I'll let everyone know that the Vortex Venom battery covers are just as much of a PITA as the FFIII covers.

good to know.

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NRA RSO

I made a wide nylon sleeve for a driver bit that keeps the battery cover squared up whilst installing. It's relieved to clear the hood. There may be photos on an old thread on this site, but i forget which forum. Probably the Modern S&W Revolver forum.