The FPC manual offers little more than to lightly coat all metal parts. Any more detailed advice, procedures, preferences?

I have little long gun experience. Mostly a revolver guy. Used an M16A2 in the Army but recall lubing mostly with CLP. Probably inadequate. So, what lubes to you prefer? Any parts require special attention.

No mystery here. CLP will do fine. Lightly coat all metal parts. Surprisingly, S&W knows how to best maintain the guns they make, and they don't keep it secret...

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Pisgah

I cannot get this bolt carrier to go back into the closed position. The instructions say that there might be resistance and to push with a wooden dowel or other non-marring tool; however, there's no way that this amount of resistance is appropriate. I feel like I'm forcing something.



Turning to Google but anybody encounter this problem?



EDIT: Disregard. Apparently, there is really A LOT of resistance. I pushed harder than seemed reasonable. It worked. That's a "negative." We'll see how this thing shoots later today.

EDIT 2: Wow. Shoots great. Love it. Now we just need 10mm, .357 Sig, and 5.7 options

I have found that it gets easier after you've had it apart a few times. If you have no tools I found that bumping the rifle barrel on a padded surface worked to get the bolt carrier to drop in. When reassembling mine now I can just shake the rifle to get the bolt carrier to drop in.

Mine has about 750 rounds through it with no issues. I'm shooting it in steel challenge matches and it gets cleaned after each match.

Edit: very lightly lube, too much and it will get really dirty. I use a light coating of Lucas Extreme gun oil. I also bought some bottle brushes sized to clean out the buffer tube.

Forney Tube Brush

Attached Images

tube brush.jpg (9.9 KB, 22 views)

For my Ruger 10/22s and my S&W M&P 15/22 I've found Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube (not the case sizing lube by the same name) to be fabulous. Because it's a dry lube all the residue from firing turns to dry soot that's easily wiped off instead of turning to muck. Most important, it provides good lubrication for these heavily used 22s.

When I got my FPC, first thing I did was completely remove the oil on the gun and give it the One Shot treatment that works so well on my 22s. My results were not satisfying. After 50-75 rounds the bolt began to move sluggishly. I cleaned the gun thoroughly and repeated the procedure. Same sluggish bolt after less than 100 rounds.

Next, I modified my procedure. I applied the One Shot and let it dry. I then applied a very light coat of Tetra gun grease to the high points on the bolt that contact the inside of the receiver and the bottom of the bolt that slides over the hammer and (what appears to be) the trigger disconnector. Freshly lubed, this leaves the bolt action really slick and smooth.

I've now fired the FPS lubed this way in seven IDPA and USPSA matches -- a little over 1000 rounds. It stays almost as smooth after 100-150 rounds as when freshly lubed. But the Tetra gun grease and powder residue turns to muck. It really needed a thorough cleaning after every match.

I own two other 9mm PCCs and realize the blow-back action is dirty. But my Ruger PCC and Hi-Point run fine with just One Shot and, consequently, can go longer between cleanings -- the Hi-Point almost forever. This is because neither has any real metal-to-metal contact when the action functions.

So, I'm wide open to others' experiences and suggestions. Meanwhile, I'll keep enjoying my FPS, which has never had a malfunction, and clean it thoroughly after every match.

I just give the bolt, bolt carrier and recoil spring a generous spray of Hornady OneShot. I spray some down the receiver tube also, as well as some on the portion of the charging handle that contacts the receiver tube.

I use a little lithium grease and rub it over the bolt. As far as putting the bolt back, I put it in and just tap the barrel on a rubber mat on the floor a couple of times and it slides right in. Never had a problem with it. Not sure why others are having a hard time with it.

I use a similar approach. I hold the carbine muzzle down with the bolt and carrier in the receiver tube and give it a downward shake without hitting the muzzle on anything. Works like a charm. The Hornady OneShot slicks things up nicely also and does not attract crud like an oil or grease would.

I use Breakfree CLP, Hornady OneShot & TW-25b grease.
Things like slide rails, or in the case of the FPC, the charge handle, gets grease. Anything that doesn't need regular cleaning.
Everything else either gets CLP or OneShot. For lubing the bolt out of the gun, OneShot works good, easy even coat. For hard to reach places, I keep liquid CLP in a needle oiler. Extractor & feed ramp get a few drops.
I like to go heavy on lubes during the break in period and clean frequently, then after break in go light. Blowback carbines can build up a LOT of crud before they start to slow down.
Most of my other rifles get a light cleaning after every range trip but all my blowback pistol caliber carbines usually just get a wet patch down the bore and a few drops on the extractor & feed ramp, with a full cleaning only after a lot of rounds.

One cannot go wrong following the factory directions.

The use of grease is not mentioned in the instructions. I have never seen grease recommended in any factory instruction manual, but what do the engineers who designed it know???