Through some 'dealin' I managed to pick up a really nice model 1000 semiauto, It fits me well, swings easily, and line of sight is great, 'BUT' it does not cycle 50% of the time. Ive tried high brass, low brass, different brands of ammo and no noticeable difference. I really like the gun, and would like to use it for pheasant season. Can anybody help, short of going to a smith. Thanks!

Hello bradanita,
Have you checked if the gas piston moves freely?
What usually gums up the works on these is a rubber O-ring type
piston shock absorber that sits on top of the magazine spring retainer washer and over time turns into a black goo. The shock absorber is not
pictured but it sits just in front of where the dimples in the magazine tube are (about right above the "N" in PISTON pin)



KO

I checked the gas piston and it snugs up pretty tight at the end of the stroke, (about the last 3/8"). There were no 'o' rings on the piston, and the rubber of the shock was in perfect condition. At least it doesn't appear anybody used solvent on it. Thanks for the input it's greatly appreciated. B.A.

I'd see if cleaning the piston and the inside of the magazine tube helps free things up a bit.

This isn't a 3" chamber barrel that you are using 2 3/4" shells in is it?

KO

Yes, it's 2 3/4 only,and the tube and piston are shiny bright now. It looks like somebody wedged the piston pretty tight then twisted it back and forth extracting it, and scored the tube\,that might be what is sticking. This is going to be fun trying to polish them out. Gonna go shootin this weekend, we'll see how it works. Thanks for the help KO. BA

I just picked one up too, did the same thing and didn't cycle and upon inspection I found the the shock washer (what was left of it) had kind of oozed down the magazine tube and gooed everything together. I cleaned it up, replaced the washer and still no luck. Them I noticed it said 3 inch for shells and I've been using 2 3/4 shells. Will it cycle with 2 3/4 shells? or must I use the 3 inch. I have to tell you this is my first S&W shotgun so I need to be educated on this.

Semper Fi.

HavocUSMC.

You should be able to use 2 3/4", all my other shotguns will cycle them in a 3" chamber. I still can't get mine to work right, it will now cycle properly but it will not cock the firing pin. It's stil a nice single shot, I haven't had time to play with it again to figure out what's going on. Somebody out there knows something and isn't telling us.

The 3" chambered barrels only have single gas port and the 2 3/4" chambered barrels have 2 gas ports so getting 2 3/4" shells to cycle
reliably in a 3" chamber is kind of hit and miss.
In 1984 S&W came out with the Model 1000 Super12 that would shoot anything from 2 3/4" field loads to 3" magnums.

KO

I got mine to cycle with no failures with 3 inch shells, which it's made for. My question is what would I have to do so it would cycle 2 3/4 shells?. Would I have to buy the 2 gas port barrel or is there some other "relieable" mods I could do.

Thanks.
Guns - out
Semper Fi

I'd look for a 2 3/4" chamber barrel, or I suppose you could drill
another hole in the 3" barrel if you never plan on using 3" shells.

KO

Yeah I think that would be the best way too and just pick up a 2 3/4 barrel. Thanks for the reply.

Guns - out

Semper Fi

Also remember that the piston assy is designed to work DRY. Don't put any lube on it after you clean it. My 2-2/4" 1000 has been 100% reliable after removing the remains of the rubber goo-ring..

I had a M1000 back in the mid/early 80's. All I remember now is that it was the worst shotgun I ever (to this day) have had. I "think" it was the 2-3/4" model, but would not cycle either field loads or mag duck loads. It was sent back to S&W and returned in the same condition.

I traded it for a Browning pump (BPS). It still works as new and will paddle the duck boat in a pinch.

Good luck.

My old 20 gauge 1000 (2&3/4" ammo) has been, and is, perfect. Even the rubber washer is original and in good shape.

i bought a 12g 1000 brand-spankin' new in 1976. i was bagging groceries after school, and it was my first firearm purchase. i don't reckon it has ever failed to work flawlessly for its entire life. i love it!

I have had a S&W Model 1000 shotgun since 1984. I bought it new with money from a summer job. I have put many thousands of rounds through it in practice and while hunting upland game. It has the 2 3/4" chambered barrel. I have only had a problem with it not autoloading once. It basically turned into a single shot. It took me a long time to find the problem. It turned out that the magazine tube that the piston rides in had gotten loose and rotated slightly. This did not allow the gas holes from the barrel to properly line up so that it could actuate the piston when the gun was fired. Once I corrected that condition by tightening that tube back up, the gun has fired and reloaded correctly ever since. Just my 2 cent. YMMV.

Tom

I have a 12ga 3" Full Choke Model 1000M. Needing a barrel for other uses, I purchased what I thought would be perfect - a barrel with screw-in choke tubes. Problem, it turned out to be about 1/2" too long from the breech to the gas-port ring, so I can't use it.
Anyone need a nice barrel with Mod choke screwed in?
Anyone know if a barrel exists for my 1000M with screw-in chokes?

There is a 28" Multi-choke barrel with 2 3/4" chamber that can be used on the 1000M and 1000 12 gauge semi-auto. The only 3" chamber barrels for the 1000M were full or modified fixed choke.

The Model 1000 Super12, which your barrel is for, had a totally different gas system for using 2 3/4" and 3" shells using the same barrel.

Unfortunately Model 1000 semi-auto 12ga barrels are pretty scarce.

KO

Hello
Here's the culprit and cure to your cycling issues. Also see the link for part's for your S&W Model 1000 or Super 1000 shotgun... I hope this help's, Hammerdown



LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing



Smith & Wesson Model 1000 Gas Piston Fouling




Manufactured for S&W by Howa Machinery of Japan the Model 1000 is a very sound gun indeed. Although S&W got out of the shotgun business in 1985 a good many Model 1000's are still being used regularly. The first thing to look for when a Model 1000 begins to malfunction is the black sticky residue shown on the Piston in the photo to the left. The Piston is the heart of the gas operation that works the feeding and ejecting of the gun. To get to the piston remove the barrel (is it necessary to remind you to unload it first?) You should be able to easily remove the Presssure Valve. Next remove the pin that connects the large black ring on the outside of the magazine tube to the Piston inside the tube and slide the black ring off the tube. The Piston should come out easily if it's clean.



the Piston Shock Absorber is next in line down the Magazine Tube. The Shock Absorber is just a steel washer with a rubberized cushion stuck to it. After many years and especially if any oil gets on it, the cushion dissolves and leaves a part of itself stuck to the Piston as the Piston bumps into it under recoil. Replacements have recently become available through the Gun Parts Corp. and they seem to be quite durable. Over the years, however, I've been replacing these worn out Shock Absorbers with a plastic (not rubber) hose washer available at most hardware stores. Just trim the washer to fit the tube snugly and place it on top of the remaining factory steel washer. One other thing to look for is dents on the long slots on either side of the magazine tube where the Connecting Pin rides. When the Shock Absorbers get really bad it can allow the pin to slam into the end of the slots denting them up pretty badly. This can cause the entire assembly to stick and create a jam. The best preventative for all of this is to NEVER let any oil get anywhere near this assembly. In conclusion I have a friend that removed the Piston shock absorber in his S&W 1000 shotgun and has fired over 20,000 round through it in competition Trap meet's with no ill issues....

Gents, not to hijack the thread but is there a way to quickly check the piston assembly and washer at the gun shop BEFORE purchasing? I'm handy but don't know squat about how to tear down an auto loading shotgun.
p.s. They are asking $300.

__________________
Dave

Hello Dave
Yup... Take the forend securing nut off and remove the gun's forend. Once it is off remove the barrel and carefuly turn the gun so it is pointed down with your hand over the end of the magazine tube and shake out the gas Piston. Pay close attention to the gas Piston to make sure it does not have Black Goo on it. If it is clean, with only mild burnt powder residue on it chances are the recoil Buffer is still good. While the Gas Piston is out shine a light down into the gas chamber and make certain it is not all Black goo under the gas piston area. if it is clean in that area chances are it is fine. I hope this helps, Hammerdown

Thanks Hammer!
Just what I was looking for. I'll check it out tomorrow and decide if I "need" it ;-)

__________________
Dave

This thread was a huge help! Yesterday, my son an I were hunting with a SW 1000 and it would not cycle. In the middle of nowhere Nebraska, my son Googled "smith and wesson shotgun not cycling" and found this thread. We conducted field maintenance -- literally -- taking the gun apart and there it was... the black goo. We cleaned it up with gun cleaner, re-assembled the gun, and BINGO... it works like a champ! I simply replaced everything minus the rubber shock washer and it works with low brass and high brass, just fine. 2 3/4 inch shells. JUST WANTED TO SAY THANK YOU to this thread, Tim Berners-Lee (inventor of the WWW), Apple for the iPhone, and Verizon for the wireless service in the middle of nowhere! It's amazing what's possible given all this technology and people williness to share expertise! Keep up hte good work!

Hello bassman523
Fantastic. I am glad my Post helped you out in the field about the rubberized recoil Buffer. I ran a model 1000 Shot gun without one for year's they are really not needed if you do not desire to put one back in if you are shooting low Brass shells. I think they were for High Brass shwell's to Buffer the recoil action more. I hope this helps and Happy Hunting. Regards, Hammerdown

Hammerdown,
There is something I don't understand about removing the "rubber" piston shock absorber and operating the gun without one. You mentioned in your 2/24/12 post that "When the Shock Absorbers get really bad it can allow the pin to slam into the end of the slots denting them up pretty badly. This can cause the entire assembly to stick and create a jam." This was my experience exactly. The magazine tube was damaged, and it took a lot of work to sand it smooth again. I then replaced the old gooey shock absorber with 1/4" of black rubber heater hose (as recommended by somebody at Smith and Wesson years ago), and it has worked pretty well over the years. Recently, however, I am having an ejection problem every 12-15 shells, usually on low-powered shells. I was reading your suggestion, but I'm afraid that if I remove the shock absorber, the piston pin will slam into the bottom of the slots and damage the magazine tube again. Can you clarify for me? My ejection problem is a little unnerving, because when it jams, the little "claw" on the ejection bolt actually ends up jammed almost right on top of the primer of the live shell, which is lodged almost sideways in the chamber. It's got me feeling like I really need to fix this or stop using the gun. Thanks for any help, Tom

I know this is an old thread but I just came across this post, and someone might be able to use this information. Drilling and tapping an extra gas port in the barrel was a common modification to the Model 1000M back in the day. The extra port was tapped for an allen head set screw, so the extra port could be closed when using 3" Magnum ammo. My gun would function with 3", 2 3/4" Mag., and 2 3/4" "High Brass" shells without the modification. I still use mine and like the fact that the "Magnum" model has a steel receiver, as opposed to aluminum on the standard models.

I bought a real nice condition shotgun recently in 20 Ga. 3" magnum with the steel receiver and I too had the problems with it not cycling with any 2 3/4" or 3" ammo. I soon discovered the black goo on the piston that seems so common an issue and spent quite sometime cleaning up the mag tube inside, reaming it with a brake hone, cleaning the piston, etc. I put it all back together and it still would not cycle but I noticed that when I inserted the piston, it went in quite tight as it hit the slotted areas of the tube even though it was cleaned up. My first thought was that the mag tube was bent or gouged inside preventing the piston from going in easily. By chance I came across a used 20 ga. piston on Ebay which I bought just to have a backup to the original. Guess what, it fit down the mag tube easily and now the gun will fire 3" ammo and cycle perfectly. It will not however, cycle and 2 3/4" ammo, low or high base.
Is it possible that somehow my cleaning of the original piston caused it to swell? Or maybe it was a little over size to begin with???
I may look into the modification of adding the 2nd gas vent hole in the barrel and having the Allen screw fitted to allow the use of all ammo sizes.
I would prefer to buy another barrel for just 2 3/4" ammo but am not having a luck finding one.

I have an original S&W 1000 Semi auto shotgun. My original problem is th cycling of shells, but my new problem is somehow (unknown) my barrel is bent (curves to the left). The gun fires but can't put it on the paper. One gunsmith is scratching his head and can not think of how this barrel got bent, no damage to barrel, no markes etc. Does anyone know where to purchase a new or used barrel

You could have it straightened.

I have a model 1000 auto 12ga that had the same "no cycle" problem. Took me forever to figure out the piston was dragging on something. Then took me forever to figure out what! After cleaning and honing the tube, it helped but still wouldn't cycle low brass dove loads so I just shot high brass.

The other day while cleaning it, I had major trouble getting the piston out. Turns out the slot that the pin that runs through the piston slides in was dinged up on the ends! A deburring tool cleaned it up nicely and now the piston slides freely. Any way to prevent this in the future? It appeared the worst damage was on the end of the slot furthest from the receiver (barrel end).

Also, there are no o-rings on the piston. Are there supposed to be?

Last question, can someone describe or post a link to replacing the rubber washer at the back (receiver end) of the tube with a hose washer (or similar) item? Mine was pretty bad when I bought the gun! Heck I thought it was a leather washer!!!

My dad had got me the 20ga 3" chamber for Christmas when I was a kid and it had the same cycling problems. He took it to the local gun smith and had an extra gas port drilled and it has worked beautifully ever since. I do take time to clean it when I know I'm not going to be shooting for a while or after shooting a bunch.