Taking off the quadrail M&P 15-22

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vitamind3

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im sure Im missing something very simple, but in my quest not to use my retard-strength and break something.. Im hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Ive got the front clip in part out, but havnt got the quadrail off yet. can anyone help?

Thanks.
 
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There's stuff on eBay for what you need. There are two tabs on the upper, one smaller and one larger, that go into the quadrail. They keep it oriented and don't allow it to rotate. Everything about this rifle is an awsome design. That does not mean there is no room for "improvments though.
 
15-22-maniac said:
There's stuff on eBay for what you need. There are two tabs on the upper, one smaller and one larger, that go into the quadrail. They keep it oriented and don't allow it to rotate. Everything about this rifle is an awsome design. That does not mean there is no room for "improvments though.
Click to expand...

on ebay? is it a specific tool? where on the upper are you talking about? do you have a pic you can post?
 
I have the M&P 15T and on the bottom of the rifle near the front pin there is a small silver button that if you press it in with the end of something like a allen wrench then slide that section forward and it will come away from the other sections.

Then you can take an allen wrench and remove the four or so allen screws and remove the full rail.

Hope this helps

Sorry I just noticed you were looking for how to remove on the 15-22... I have no idea...
 
Last edited:
I think I may have found the answer. It appears as if you need to remove the barrel in order to remove the quad rail. can anyone confirm this?
 
Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.
 

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15-22-maniac said:
Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great pics and info. Sure would be nice if S&W would release a schematic and IPB.

Ed
 
So would it be possible to put a Vltor CASV fore-end on the M&P15-22?
 
15-22 handguard swap

No, you can't put the Vltor CASV fore-end on. That particular handguard needs a delta ring and front sight mounted to the barrel. It is specifically for the M4 Carbine or the CQB (10.3-inch barrel) configured flat top upper receiver assembly.
You CAN put on any handguard that replaces the AR-15 barrel nut. The 15-22 does not have that specific barrel nut, but there is an adapter available on eBay. No delta ring handguards work on the 15-22, yet.
 
15-22-maniac said:
Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.
Click to expand...

So.... just to tighten the barrel nut (after making the tool) all I need to do is snap off the front thing-a-ma-gig, then slip the tool down and into the barrel nut grooves, then hold onto what's left of the end of the barrel with one hand hand and rotate the tool clockwise, right?

I recon I can get enough grip on the barrel using a rubber pad or something. As far as 15-20lbs? I guess I can't overdue it with just a hand grip on the barrel?
 
vitamind3 said:
well,no. youre not trying to turn the actual barrel, just the nut that secures it.
Click to expand...

Right, I got that part. But the amount of torque I can apply to the barrel nut tool (with pliers or whatever) will be limited to how much I can grip the barrel with my other hand... at which point the rifle will just spin around, right?

What did you use to grip the barrel when tightening the barrel nut?
 
You "can" hold onto the upper reciever or the assembled upper and lower, or the handguard. None of those are recommended tho. The channels that orient the barrel are not very deep. The handguard could break from twisting. These parts are VERY tough and should be fine. You could always get some vise jaws to hold the barrel.
It your tool long enough to stick out of the handguard. I'm supposing it is, cause you said you were going to grip it with pliers or whatever.
Good luck, be safe and let us know how quickly Smith sends replacement parts.
 
hey bud, i just held on to the entire gun got a spare set of hands just to make sure i didnt put to much pressuer at 1 point. and held it with my legs from 1 end to the other.. u turn the pipe counter clock wise (lefty loosey righty tighty) i made the pipe 16" long to clear the end of the pipe then drilled a hole in it and inserted a metal pin about 6" long it was more than enough to break it free
 
All the words and pictures are nice, but how about a video for us that need a lot more guidance. Please.
 
15-22-maniac said:
You "can" hold onto the upper reciever or the assembled upper and lower, or the handguard. None of those are recommended tho. The channels that orient the barrel are not very deep. The handguard could break from twisting. These parts are VERY tough and should be fine. You could always get some vise jaws to hold the barrel.
It your tool long enough to stick out of the handguard. I'm supposing it is, cause you said you were going to grip it with pliers or whatever.
Good luck, be safe and let us know how quickly Smith sends replacement parts.
Click to expand...

BELT_FED said:
hey bud, i just held on to the entire gun got a spare set of hands just to make sure i didnt put to much pressuer at 1 point. and held it with my legs from 1 end to the other.. u turn the pipe counter clock wise (lefty loosey righty tighty) i made the pipe 16" long to clear the end of the pipe then drilled a hole in it and inserted a metal pin about 6" long it was more than enough to break it free
Click to expand...

Well.... I kinda like the bluing on my barrel so I thought I'd try to use PVC instead of steel pipe. After I get done with a dozen or so attempts to cut the tabs in, I should have enough PVC left from an 8 foot piece to have an 11 inch tool. Then just glue on a 4-way PVC connector so I'll have a T to turn. But that will only give me about 3-4 inches of barrel left to hold onto.

All I'm trying to do is see if my barrel is lose.... I wonder how much a new handguard cost.... I've already got the $40 medical visit deductible figured into this project.
 
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