Taking off the quadrail M&P 15-22

[vitamind3]

im sure Im missing something very simple, but in my quest not to use my retard-strength and break something.. Im hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Ive got the front clip in part out, but havnt got the quadrail off yet. can anyone help?

Thanks.

 

[tacticool22]

There's stuff on eBay for what you need. There are two tabs on the upper, one smaller and one larger, that go into the quadrail. They keep it oriented and don't allow it to rotate. Everything about this rifle is an awsome design. That does not mean there is no room for "improvments though.

 

[vitamind3]

There's stuff on eBay for what you need. There are two tabs on the upper, one smaller and one larger, that go into the quadrail. They keep it oriented and don't allow it to rotate. Everything about this rifle is an awsome design. That does not mean there is no room for "improvments though.

on ebay? is it a specific tool? where on the upper are you talking about? do you have a pic you can post?

 

[hopperb]

I have the M&P 15T and on the bottom of the rifle near the front pin there is a small silver button that if you press it in with the end of something like a allen wrench then slide that section forward and it will come away from the other sections.

Then you can take an allen wrench and remove the four or so allen screws and remove the full rail.

Hope this helps

Sorry I just noticed you were looking for how to remove on the 15-22... I have no idea...

 

[vitamind3]

I think I may have found the answer. It appears as if you need to remove the barrel in order to remove the quad rail. can anyone confirm this?

 

[tacticool22]

Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.

 

[vitamind3]

sweetness! thanks brother-man! thats kind of what i figured was going on in there. thanks again!

 

[Crazy Ed]

Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.

Thanks for the great pics and info. Sure would be nice if S&W would release a schematic and IPB.

Ed

 

[tacticool22]

Not to be a nit wit, but what is IPB?

 

[OneUp]

Not to be a nit wit, but what is IPB?

Illustrated Parts Breakdown

 

[chuck s]

Another made-up abbreviation.

-- Chuck

 

[gundam83]

So would it be possible to put a Vltor CASV fore-end on the M&P15-22?

 

[tacticool22]

15-22 handguard swap

No, you can't put the Vltor CASV fore-end on. That particular handguard needs a delta ring and front sight mounted to the barrel. It is specifically for the M4 Carbine or the CQB (10.3-inch barrel) configured flat top upper receiver assembly.
You CAN put on any handguard that replaces the AR-15 barrel nut. The 15-22 does not have that specific barrel nut, but there is an adapter available on eBay. No delta ring handguards work on the 15-22, yet.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Here is a pic of the rifle dis-assembled. The barrel nut goes inside the quad rail, and squeezes the quadrail onto the upper. It also pulls the barrel tight against a metal bushing in the upper. The bigger part, above the threads is the part that stops the barrel from moving forward. The nut, keeps the barrel from moving backward, and holds the quad rail tight. There are "ears" on the barrel keeper that keep it from rotating. Those ears go into polymer channels in the upper. That is why you DO NOT hold onto the reciever to tighten or loosen the barrel nut. Only hold onto the barrel. There is a replacement barrel nut. It has inside threads for the 15-22 barrel and outside threads that are identical to an AR upper. Those are used for the barrel nut (not used on the 15-22) or for threaded AR forearms.
Hope these pics and info help. I have more.

So.... just to tighten the barrel nut (after making the tool) all I need to do is snap off the front thing-a-ma-gig, then slip the tool down and into the barrel nut grooves, then hold onto what's left of the end of the barrel with one hand hand and rotate the tool clockwise, right?

I recon I can get enough grip on the barrel using a rubber pad or something. As far as 15-20lbs? I guess I can't overdue it with just a hand grip on the barrel?

 

[vitamind3]

I recon I can get enough grip on the barrel using a rubber pad or something. As far as 15-20lbs? I guess I can't overdue it with just a hand grip on the barrel?

well,no. youre not trying to turn the actual barrel, just the nut that secures it.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

well,no. youre not trying to turn the actual barrel, just the nut that secures it.

Right, I got that part. But the amount of torque I can apply to the barrel nut tool (with pliers or whatever) will be limited to how much I can grip the barrel with my other hand... at which point the rifle will just spin around, right?

What did you use to grip the barrel when tightening the barrel nut?

 

[tacticool22]

You "can" hold onto the upper reciever or the assembled upper and lower, or the handguard. None of those are recommended tho. The channels that orient the barrel are not very deep. The handguard could break from twisting. These parts are VERY tough and should be fine. You could always get some vise jaws to hold the barrel.
It your tool long enough to stick out of the handguard. I'm supposing it is, cause you said you were going to grip it with pliers or whatever.
Good luck, be safe and let us know how quickly Smith sends replacement parts.

 

[BELT_FED]

hey bud, i just held on to the entire gun got a spare set of hands just to make sure i didnt put to much pressuer at 1 point. and held it with my legs from 1 end to the other.. u turn the pipe counter clock wise (lefty loosey righty tighty) i made the pipe 16" long to clear the end of the pipe then drilled a hole in it and inserted a metal pin about 6" long it was more than enough to break it free

 

[OLDGUNMAN]

All the words and pictures are nice, but how about a video for us that need a lot more guidance. Please.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

You "can" hold onto the upper reciever or the assembled upper and lower, or the handguard. None of those are recommended tho. The channels that orient the barrel are not very deep. The handguard could break from twisting. These parts are VERY tough and should be fine. You could always get some vise jaws to hold the barrel.
It your tool long enough to stick out of the handguard. I'm supposing it is, cause you said you were going to grip it with pliers or whatever.
Good luck, be safe and let us know how quickly Smith sends replacement parts.

hey bud, i just held on to the entire gun got a spare set of hands just to make sure i didnt put to much pressuer at 1 point. and held it with my legs from 1 end to the other.. u turn the pipe counter clock wise (lefty loosey righty tighty) i made the pipe 16" long to clear the end of the pipe then drilled a hole in it and inserted a metal pin about 6" long it was more than enough to break it free

Well.... I kinda like the bluing on my barrel so I thought I'd try to use PVC instead of steel pipe. After I get done with a dozen or so attempts to cut the tabs in, I should have enough PVC left from an 8 foot piece to have an 11 inch tool. Then just glue on a 4-way PVC connector so I'll have a T to turn. But that will only give me about 3-4 inches of barrel left to hold onto.

All I'm trying to do is see if my barrel is lose.... I wonder how much a new handguard cost.... I've already got the $40 medical visit deductible figured into this project.

 

[tacticool22]

The barrel wrench costs 22 bucks and a length of black or PVC pipe is another couple bucks. Slide it over the barrel carefully and you wont scratch the blueing. Get some Brownells oxpho-blue creme formula for any touch ups. We all need to do touch ups once in a while. Once you have the wrench, you might as well take the rifle apart and clean out the shavings that some owners have found. Assemble, tighten, done.

 

[arizona98tj]

After I get done with a dozen or so attempts to cut the tabs in, I should have enough PVC left from an 8 foot piece to have an 11 inch tool.

First attempt was successful.....

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Well.... here's my streamlined 2 prong version next to yours. (4 prong was first attempt) two tabs had to go. And the evidence of disassembly.

Now... as far as endangering the handgaurd.... I mounted my Tapco riser across the handgaurd and receiver. I figured if the two could not move I'd be ok?

Anyway.... It took no twisting torque at all. I just gripped the PVC and turned. The barrel nut didn't even try to put up a fight.

Now what?

 

[tacticool22]

Now what?

Now the fun begins.
New barrel shroud, cleaning the upper completely, removing burrs and shavings, Etc, Etc, Etc. (From Willy Wonka)
Congrats on removing the barrel nut. It should be tight enough to almost break the tabs from a PVC pipe. At least mine was.
That was ingenius to use the riser as a spine to support the handguard.
Can someone come up with a for true torque for the barrel nut, with some kind of substantiation? From what I've read on this forum, maybe you should let S&W in on that information as well.

 

[27 Beck]

Well.... here's my streamlined 2 prong version next to yours. (4 prong was first attempt) two tabs had to go. And the evidence of disassembly.

Now... as far as endangering the handgaurd.... I mounted my Tapco riser across the handgaurd and receiver. I figured if the two could not move I'd be ok?

Anyway.... It took no twisting torque at all. I just gripped the PVC and turned. The barrel nut didn't even try to put up a fight.

Now what?

Why did you have to remove two of the tabs on your tool?

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

All the words and pictures are nice, but how about a video for us that need a lot more guidance. Please.

I need the manual to change the oil in my car... but taking off the barrel was easy even for me.

Here's how I did it.

-- Remove upper from lower.

1. I uncliped the front 'thingy' by wedging up with a plastic pen (photo below) and then just slid it off the barrel.

2. With a piece of PVC (3/4'' inner diameter) I used a Dremmel to cut out four tabs as shown in Arizona's pic.

3. I stuck the PVC pipe with 4 tabs down the handgaurd and hopelessly tried to line up the PVC tabs with the 4 cutouts in the barrel nut.

4. I removed 2 PVC tabs. Then things lined up real quick! And it was obvioulsy strong enough to do the job.


4. I gently twisted the PVC and the barrel nut lossened up easy. The barrel has got a lot of threads so I had to spin the PVC/barrel nut for a while. Once the barrel nut was off the barrel threads, I slid the barrel nut off the barrel just like the front 'thingy'.

5. I tapped the barrel's muzzle with the palm of my hand a couple times and it broke lose from the receiver, I then just pushed the barrel out of the receiver (backwards).

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Why did you have to remove two of the tabs on your tool?

Because I'm not talented enough to symmetrically cut 4 tabs to line up with the barrel nut all at the same time. But I was able to manage to get two tabs to line up.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Now the fun begins.
New barrel shroud, cleaning the upper completely, removing burrs and shavings, Etc, Etc, Etc. (From Willy Wonka)
Congrats on removing the barrel nut. It should be tight enough to almost break the tabs from a PVC pipe. At least mine was.
That was ingenius to use the riser as a spine to support the handguard.
Can someone come up with a for true torque for the barrel nut, with some kind of substantiation? From what I've read on this forum, maybe you should let S&W in on that information as well.

I put mine back together and I know I got it tighter than it was originally. I suppose I could glue a cap on the end of the PVC and put my torque wrench on it.... but I got it about as tight as a guy can twist a piece of 3/4 inch PVC.

Check it out-

 

[27 Beck]

Because I'm not talented enough to symmetrically cut 4 tabs to line up with the barrel nut all at the same time. But I was able to manage to get two tabs to line up.

LOL, understand.

 

[arizona98tj]

Here is something of a compilation of info on making a barrel nut wrench and removing your barrel.....

Smith & Wesson M&P15-22 - 5