Haven't taken possession of the 15-22 yet, but have a question regarding lead deposits in the barrel. I shot my S&W 22A pistol last Sunday, shot 50 rounds of Blazer LRN, 50 rounds of Federal Lightning LRN, and 100 rounds of Federal bulk copper plated HP's. When I got home, cleaned the barrel with my bore snake and found that it removed some significant strips of lead that were deposited between the rifling gooves.

Are you folks experiencing something similar in your 15-22's on unplated or unjacketed lead rounds after only shooting 100 rounds? I'm just surprised by that, but don't think I need to be concerned about it. Anyone disagree and can tell me why?

Since the takedown of the 22A is so simple, I clean it after every range visit, so it isn't a big deal that I'm removing some lead from the barrel. I plan on doing the same with the 15-22 after each range visit of 200 rounds or so.

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S&W15-22 RIA 1911
CZ75B SR9

Yeah, that's normal. Lead has a low melting point and softens readily from barrel friction heating. Generally the higher the velocity, the more heating, and the more lead gets left behind. (BTW some of it even gets atomized and blown around with the combustion gases - not something you want to inhale.) I don't like to use bare lead except for subsonic.

I have read some posts here about NOT cleaning the barrel. A "seasoned" barrel is supposed to be more accurate, esp if you always use the same ammo.

I always clean after shooting. I'd spend 20 rounds seasoning a clean barrel than taking a chance on a malfunction of some kind.

Most guys that say not to clean .22lr barrels are target shooters using high grade low velocity ammunition that is well lubricated from the factory. Bulk pack ammo is not lubricated as much if at all and is often high velocity and does have a tendency to lead. Also these guys are using match grade barrels that have been lapped and have a very smooth bore as opposed to a basic barrel that may have tool marks in it that collect lead and copper.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

I think im reading this wrong. But the 15 22 also has a match grade barrrel. S&W even lists it as such on their site. Sorry for any confussion about the previous post. I was just wondering if he meant the people that say "not" to clean the barrel are using match grade barels or not.

There are small imperfections in every barrel. After just a few rds those imperfections will "fill in". I think everyone would agree to clean your barrel, but what I do is lightly run a lubricated patch followed by 2 or 3 runs with a dry one and I only used the copper brush on the "just out of the box cleaning". Q-tip the flash hider and and the inners up the upper paying special attention to the firing pin end of the bolt and the feed ramp. Below that in the triger assembly you'll find that it doesn't get very dirty. First time i cleaned it I ran it wet, then ever since I only lubricate the parts that need constant attention.

Folks who say not to clean are also using high end target ammo along with the match target barrels. I don't know of anyone who shoots $5.00 a box Wolf Match ammo or better yet $19.00 a box Eley Tenex through their 15/22s. Most guys that I know use the high velocity bulk pack ammo in the 15/22 and other semi automatic fun guns. Years ago I built a tricked out 10/22 that had a Clark barrel and Volquartsen custom innards. That rifle, even with all it's fancy schmancy goo gaa's needed HV ammo to function reliably. The custom hand lapped barrel still leaded, though not near as much as the stock barrel.

My current target .22s have never tasted a high velocity .22lr, in fact I don't use anything but sub sonic target grade ammo in them anymore because of the leading issues I had with the customized Ruger and due to the accuracy lost by the buffeting of the projectile when passing through the transonic barrier after about 40 yards. I only clean my target .22 barrels when accuracy drops off, generally about every 500 rounds or so. Then go through a 10-15 round process of fouling to get the barrel to settle down.

That reminds me, competition season is over at my local club, it's time to clean my rifle.
Edit:
To the OP, given the high velocity ammo you are using I don't think your leading issues are anything to worry about.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

While I totally agree with what has been said here other than the 15-22 having a match grade barrel(and yes I know it says it but ive not seen 2 the same since Ive been working on them..) I think s&w match grade means it "matched" their specs... but as a 15-22 owner, moder, active shoot( way over 20,000 rds of feds threw it) I dont think you have anything to worry about as long as you stick to the copper coated rds. because there has never been a cleaning rod down my barrel...

And another good reason alot of comp shoots dont clean their comp barrel all the time is because they cost alot of money and are easily damaged with a bore brush or rod... shoot it and enjoy it if you can visually see lead build up then clean it.. dont waist all your time worrying about stuff and get back to the fun part......SHOOTING

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Smith 357 is right, on a target barrel we only cleaned it when it started to shoot off. Take a dry brush and swap one trip each down the tube before shooting a match. Then when you did clean it, it would take two to three boxes of ammo to get it back on target. When you are talking a 1/16 of a inch at fifty yards alot. In the scoring on the 22 you use the lease number - like you hit the 9 and 10 ring - you get the 9 points not the ten. Plus you use a 32 power scope on it.

I have nowhere near the knowlege many posting here do (such as BELT_FED, what a cool name btw); but I'll not let that stop me from posting. The only thing I would add to the excellent advice given above is:
For a S&W 15-22 I make sure to do a good job cleaning the chamber after each use. Since we had a OOB with our first 15-22, I have been, ..., ah,... compulsive about making sure our chamber stays very clean. Same with the M&P15 I have, I have a chamber brush for that which I use always (I do understand the locking bolt, and that this design will not OOB).

BELT_FED - as you are extremely knowledgeable, and are one who doesn’t see the need for a lot of barrel cleaning, what is your opinion related to chamber cleaning? You say "there has never been a cleaning rod down my barrel..."
I'm very curious, what sort of cleaning of your 15-22 do you do?

Hes Belt_fed.. his rifle cleans itself lol!

I clean the fire control and everything else and use a qtip to clean the chamber .. I pretty much make sure everything is spotless minus the bore itself if it doesn't have build up I leave it alone.. if I see any build up I. Clean it but as of right now I've not had any leading with it but I only shoot copper coated rds no waxed or uncoated bullets at all

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Another thing that can down your grouping is a bore snake, it can cut the crown. I have never used one and never seen one at a 22 match.

Hmmm.. I'm having a hard time understanding how a properly used boresnake could damage a barrel crown... but I guess it's worth some research.

For me it's:

1) Spend a thousand rounds or so at either the range (poking paper) or the local pit (chasing cans).
2) Observe a moment of silence for either the paper or the cans that have made the ultimate sacrifice
3) Break the rifle down, grab some CLP, crack a brew.
4) CLP the fire control group
5) CLP the bolt and components
6) CLP & Q-tip the chamber and breech area
7) Apply some CLP to a Hoppes Boresnake, before and after the brass brush section and drag it straight through, from breech to muzzle just once.
8) Wipe it down, re-assemble, admire, take another picture for the picture thread, stow the weapon.
9) Crack another brew, 'cuz that first one is long gone.

Elapsed time: < 10 minutes

It continues to shoot straight and reliably

allright non of us ment that a bore snake or cleaning rod "will" hurt your barrel what was ment is that it CAN hurt your barrel...

Rimfire barrels are usually made from softer materials and not hardend the way centerfire rifle barrels are made.. there is no need. there is not enough pressure to justify the exspense.

Rimfire barrels also have whats called or refered to as micro rilfling or grooving, not true rifling meaning that were a centerfire rifling may measure .015 deep per side a rimfire may only be .002 deep per side. because of this shallow rifling the crown is very easily damaged

Now with that said look at it as buffing your car out. if it had a foot of paint on it you would not think anything about buffing on it once a month or even every week but because of the thickness of the clear coat its only done as need to restore the shine to new.. if this all makes since please raise your hand lol and smile

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Thanks for the clarification, Belt Fed . I too pretty much have the same routine as Whoppo (though I do say a little short eulogy for the deceased paper and cans...lol ). After reading the post I was concerned if I should NOT use the boresnake at all to clean my barrel after each trip to the range for fear of damaging the crown.

So from your explanation and "car finish" analogy, I'm getting this: Due to the softness of the barrel metal and the relative shallowness of the rifling, "overuse" or "misuse" of a boresnake (or even a regular rod and patch system I suppose), could damage the barrel and crown due to the possibility of premature wearing?

I just want to make sure that I take care of my rifle properly and am not doing anything that could unnecessarily "damage" it.

Thanks for the info.

basicly all im saying if the bore needs it then clean it.. but as for me and my rifle im not going to risk damaging my bore or crown or waiste the time cleaning something that doesnt need it

the patch isnt what damages the bore or crown and its not an issue of wearing its the rod itself unless you can run a 2 foot long object down a barrel with out it touching the bore or crown on either side then you take a risk of damaging the barrel by scaring it

the bore snake is a better option but it still has a wire brush made on to it and it still can scare the bore allthough its less likely too

its your rifle and your money clean it however you feel it needs to be cleaned I was just trying to explain why many dont clean their bores every time and not even adding in the fact that the barrel will continue to shoot tighter groups until it fouls out.. and then all it takes is alittle solvent and the process you are allready doing to start the process all over..

back to car finish explaination if your car looked better all the time after a buffing each day looking better untill one day it just looked dingy would you buff it every day or would you wait until it had looked its best and then start all over with a fresh buffing..

im not trying to be difficult but ive shot rimfire comp since i was 14 and i own lets just say a few 22s (more than i can even justify and even my shooting buddies say i have a fetish with them) but i was trying to share info that ive learned over the years..

my belt fed guns get a rod run down them every time they are fired mainly because they need it dew to the corrosive ammo that is run threw them but on a rimfire its not needed as often

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Ok. I see the logic (i.e. why clean it if there's no lead deposits in the barrel). Makes perfect sense. I'll clean the bolt, trigger group, chamber and breech area after every trip to the range, but it does make sense to skip the boresnake if the barrel really doesn't need it.

Thanks for the info and clarification.