What distance do you zero at?

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I sighted my irons in at 25 yards and was pretty accurate back to 40 yards. I will sight my scope in at 50 yards if possible
 
i have my nc start 3-9 scope set at 50 yards more or less since i can always get on the 50 yard range verses waiting around to the 100.
 
For my shooting, iron sights and RDS at 35 yards (splitting the difference between 25 and 50) and my scope at 75 yards. This is true of all my .22s.
 
Mr Arizona: How close are your shot groups to center?
Shooting at 50 yards with iron sights, what is considered zeroed? Within one/two/three inch of center?

I'm finding it extremely difficult to zero at that distance.
 
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My .22 rifle is zeroed at 50 yards, a fairly long shot at small game, and requires only about 2" of holdover at 100 yards for shots at other stuff, such as plinking targets. The 50 yard zero also means that there's no significant discrepancy between point of aim and point of impact at shorter ranges.
 
Mr Arizona: How close are your shot groups to center?
Shooting at 50 yards with iron sights, what is considered zeroed? Within one/two/three inch of center?

The goal is to have your shots centered on the bullseye at the desired distance.

I'm finding it extremely difficult to zero at that distance.

(1) When zeroing, you need to shoot off of sandbags or other SOLID support at both the front of the hand guard and the butt stock to insure the rifle doesn't move between shots. It's very difficult to zero a firearm otherwise.

(2) Zero FIRST at a closer distance (say 10 yards), then move the target to 25 yards and re-zero, if necessary. Finally, move the target to 50 yards and repeat the zeroing process.

(3) You will have to do this for each sighting setup (iron sights, RDS and or a scope)

It does take a little time, effort and ammo to do it properly.

Hang in there; you'll get it done.
 
The goal is to have your shots centered on the bullseye at the desired distance.



(1) When zeroing, you need to shoot off of sandbags or other SOLID support at both the front of the hand guard and the butt stock to insure the rifle doesn't move between shots. It's very difficult to zero a firearm otherwise.

(2) Zero FIRST at a closer distance (say 10 yards), then move the target to 25 yards and re-zero, if necessary. Finally, move the target to 50 yards and repeat the zeroing process.

(3) You will have to do this for each sighting setup (iron sights, RDS and or a scope)

It does take a little time, effort and ammo to do it properly.

Hang in there; you'll get it done.

I've never had to zero past 25m. I did both (2) & (3). (1) makes sense. That's probably why everyone at the range has a shooting rest. Thanks for the advice.
 
Try this:
First, determind what distant you want to use this rifle in. For me I know the 22LR's capabilities, so with that I decided to sight my iron sights for 25 yds. I have installed a Vortex SureFire Red Dot and that is set up at 50yds.

Note: This rifle will not be used in a defensive role, but it is setup for it for training on my full size AR15. Now that is how I plan on using my M&P 15/22. Others may have this a their only weapon and thus use it for what ever. You have to decide what the plan is. Good luck.
 
My scope (3-9) is set for 50yrds and is also good for 20yrds.
Red dot and irons are set for 20 yrds.
 
50 yards makes a good Battlesight Zero for this rifle. The high trajectory of .22LR, though, makes hold-over/under necessary. I can chase shotgun hull around the range with this zero. Especially easy with the Aimpoint clone on my rifle.

Note this is battlesight, not X-ring. .22LR trajectory demands a specific zero at specific ranges for X-ring. 25 feet is standard .22LR match shooting as I recall.

-- Chuck
 
Since this is a range toy, I zero my Bushnell Trophy MP at whatever distance I'm shooting. In the summer, I shoot my 15-22 at the outdoors range with my 5.56, so I zero at 25-50 yards.
During the winter I'm on the indoor pistol range, so I zero it at roughly 10 yards.
 
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