Since I couldn't find a thread with good instructions and pictures for converting a 25rd S&W mag into a 15rd mag, I figured I would give it a try and report back. I considered using the tacticool mag restrictor but I also wanted to reduce the overall length of the mag for bench shooting. I live in NJ which has a 15rd mag limit. Colorado is the only other state with a 15rd mag limit so I figured it was unlikely the manufacturers will ever make a 15rd mag.
I just received 4 new 10rd Long magazines from S&W and figured I'd give it a try and report back. The end result was even better than I expected. Here's the steps I took with pics.
Step 1: I removed the factory restrictor pin from the 10rd Long mag from S&W. This took about 30 secs. Long screw driver press against the restrictor pin. I placed the mag on a folded towel on a concrete floor and hit the screwdriver gently but firmly with a hammer. 3 strikes later the pin fell out.
Step 2: I loaded the unrestricted mag with 15 rds to take measurements to determine where to make cuts.
Step 3: I determined that I needed to make 2 cuts. 1st cut just above the baseplate. I used painter's tape to mark the cut.
Step 4: I decided to make the cut using a hacksaw with a brand new blade. The saw made the cut in less than 2 minutes and I was taking my time and using a vac to clean the plastic dust as I cut to ensure I had a clear view of the cut. This step was alot easier than I thought it would be.
Step 5: I used a small exacto knife to remove the debris from the baseplate.
Step 6: I used the painter's tape again to mark above the first rib up from the bottom of the oem mag based on my measurements. I made the cut approx. "half a .22 casing diameter" above this rib. By locating the cut in this location, the new mag will only hold 15rds but you'll be able to use the stock spring just as it is. No cutting of the factory spring is needed. Here's how the baseplate and the rib cut look afterwards.
Step 7: I have a grinder and gently ground the surfaces of both the baseplate and the mag while doing dry tests to get as close to a perfect mating as possible across all cut surfaces.
Step 8: I inserted the blue follower in the opening of the main mag in the proper position but as close to the new cut as possible. By placing the follower in this location, you'll be able to maintain the proper dimensions of the channel as you glue the baseplate on to the bottom of the mag.
Step 8: I used normal liquid superglue. I carefully place superglue on all of the new cut surfaces on both the faceplate and the main mag. (Be careful not to get any superglue on the blue follower.) I then matched the wet surfaces together while aligning the outer surfaces and seams for as close to a perfect mating as I could get.
Step 9: I doubled a bunch (6-8) rubber bands lengthwise around the mag and left it alone for about 2 hrs.
I just received 4 new 10rd Long magazines from S&W and figured I'd give it a try and report back. The end result was even better than I expected. Here's the steps I took with pics.
Step 1: I removed the factory restrictor pin from the 10rd Long mag from S&W. This took about 30 secs. Long screw driver press against the restrictor pin. I placed the mag on a folded towel on a concrete floor and hit the screwdriver gently but firmly with a hammer. 3 strikes later the pin fell out.
Step 2: I loaded the unrestricted mag with 15 rds to take measurements to determine where to make cuts.
Step 3: I determined that I needed to make 2 cuts. 1st cut just above the baseplate. I used painter's tape to mark the cut.
Step 4: I decided to make the cut using a hacksaw with a brand new blade. The saw made the cut in less than 2 minutes and I was taking my time and using a vac to clean the plastic dust as I cut to ensure I had a clear view of the cut. This step was alot easier than I thought it would be.
Step 5: I used a small exacto knife to remove the debris from the baseplate.
Step 6: I used the painter's tape again to mark above the first rib up from the bottom of the oem mag based on my measurements. I made the cut approx. "half a .22 casing diameter" above this rib. By locating the cut in this location, the new mag will only hold 15rds but you'll be able to use the stock spring just as it is. No cutting of the factory spring is needed. Here's how the baseplate and the rib cut look afterwards.
Step 7: I have a grinder and gently ground the surfaces of both the baseplate and the mag while doing dry tests to get as close to a perfect mating as possible across all cut surfaces.
Step 8: I inserted the blue follower in the opening of the main mag in the proper position but as close to the new cut as possible. By placing the follower in this location, you'll be able to maintain the proper dimensions of the channel as you glue the baseplate on to the bottom of the mag.
Step 8: I used normal liquid superglue. I carefully place superglue on all of the new cut surfaces on both the faceplate and the main mag. (Be careful not to get any superglue on the blue follower.) I then matched the wet surfaces together while aligning the outer surfaces and seams for as close to a perfect mating as I could get.
Step 9: I doubled a bunch (6-8) rubber bands lengthwise around the mag and left it alone for about 2 hrs.
Attachments
Last edited:
