Suppressor Compatability

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azcabal

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Maybe a dumb question but I'm new to the world of suppressors...are all 22lr cans compatible with any threaded 22's? Threading patterns and lengths all standard? Figure it's not worth the hassle and cost for just my 15-22, but if it will fit my pistols too, then I might just be able to convince myself...

FYI I have the A1 style compensator.
 
Thread pattern for .22 is generally 1/2" x 28 tpi. Thread length for .22 suppressors is generally .400" which is shorter than most rifles are threaded for (so you'd need spacers), but is usually what pistols are threaded at.
 
Just research your specific suppressor because I would think they all have similar specs... but would not assume so. The 22Sparrow is stainless & rated for full auto & works with all rimfire rounds, such as 22lr, .17 hmr & .22 wmr. It is threaded 1/2 x 28 & wants a length of .4. As said by telero, never screw it all the way down on a rifle (15-22) with longer threads. Use a spacer to get the rifle threads down to .4.

My bolt action CZ 455's factory threaded barrel is threaded 1/2 x 20, but you can purchase an adapter. I think it is a European thing.
 
Yeah, 1/2x20 is a widely used thread outside the USA, and very common for .22's. I have a bunch of them threaded at 1/2x20.

I had to order a custom one to get a 1/2x28 one.

(I don't live in the USA)

KBK
 
azcabal said:
Figure it's not worth the hassle and cost for just my 15-22, but if it will fit my pistols too, then I might just be able to convince myself...
Click to expand...
No real hassle, especially if you fill out the paper work as a trust or corporation. It just takes many months to get your stamp back. So with the proper setup, adapter & spacer, the one suppressor will service 3 of my guns... the 15-22, Buck Mark pistol & CZ bolt action.


azcabal said:
FYI I have the A1 style compensator.
Click to expand...
Please study up on removing it before you do anything. Very easy to damage the polymer receiver if you don't clamp down the barrel when removing the compensator.
 
thanks for the advice. looks like i'll need a 1/2 x 28 adaptor for my sig 1911-22 and i'll make sure to be careful removing the compensator.
 
There is some good advise in this thread. Before you invest in a barrel spacer; acquire the suppressor and measure the depth from the rear threads on the can to the first blast baffle.

Not all 22LR cans require a spacer for switching between rifle length and the shorter pistol length threads.

If your can's first baffle has enough depth to clear the rifle threading, don't worry about the spacer.

I run an AAC Element on my handguns and my 15-22, with no real need for a barrel spacer.
 
What Dirt says. If you can screw the can on deep enough it will help eliminate a lot of the first round pop. Many .22 cans have too much volume in the first chamber which allows the bang to be created, and they only work best once the air in it has been burnt up. IF you can reduce the volume by screwing it in deeper you'll reduce the noise of the first shot a bit.

KBK
 
i have to use one thin crush washer on the 15-22 and a Pilot II, but none if i run it on all the pistols. the Pilot 1 same, the Sparrow and Hunterstown and Silencio IDK about since they are in the NFA line.
Gemtech Sandstorm on the .308 and the Trek Ti do not require spacers on the rifle.
guess it all depends, i'm finding that if it has a AR type FH then it will be too long most of the times and require a spacer.
 
Never heard of anyone needing a spacer as most suppressor manufacturers recommend "no spacer". I have several suppressors in different calibers and they are definitely worth the "hassle factor" to jump through the hoops and get the stamp. BTW - individual, corp or trust take the same length of time so rule of thumb is if your LEO will sign, just go individual form 4 and save extra cost and aggravation.
 
15-22 have much longer threads (about .625) than standard rimfire .40. A spacer is useful for a couple reasons. If the barrel threads extend beyond the threads in the can, the exposed barrel threads will get filled with carbon and lead. This can be quite inconvenient.... think about it. ;)
On the flip side, threads in the can might be long enough to accommodate the longer 15-22 barrel threads. However, after you put a few hundred rounds through the can with your .40 pistols, the exposed threads in the can get filled up with carbon and lead. You won't be able to fully tighten the can on your 15-22 without first cleaning up the threads in the can.
 
Last edited:
ken158 said:
Never heard of anyone needing a spacer as most suppressor manufacturers recommend "no spacer".
Click to expand...

I think one of the main issues with thread length is that if the suppressor can't be screwed on so that it reaches the shoulder on the barrel, it can be more likely to come loose. Also, with some suppressors like the Sparrow, if the threaded length is correct, the barrel can engage an o-ring inside the suppressor mount that will help keep any debris off the threads as well as keep it from coming loose.
 
I have a Gem-Tech Outback II. It usually sits on my High Standard Citation but fits nicely on the 15-22 MOE. The thread pattern on the Gem-Tech is 1/2-28. Oh yeah, it looks cool as hell.
 
ChattanoogaPhil said:
15-22 have much longer threads (about .625) than standard rimfire .40. A spacer is useful for a couple reasons. If the barrel threads extend beyond the threads in the can, the exposed barrel threads will get filled with carbon and lead. This can be quite inconvenient.... think about it. ;)
Click to expand...

The exposed threads do pick up some fouling. However, I have never seen buildup to the extent that the removal of the can was impeded, nor could not be cleaned easily whilst cleaning the barrel. I guess it depends on how much you shoot between cleaning intervals.
 
telero said:
I think one of the main issues with thread length is that if the suppressor can't be screwed on so that it reaches the shoulder on the barrel, it can be more likely to come loose.
Click to expand...

Yep, and if it gets too loose and out of concentric alignment with the bore, you run the risk of a baffle strike. Not something you want to happen..........
 
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