|
|
05-14-2012, 01:58 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Breaking in a New M&P?
Well I finally managed to track down a new M&P and purchase it. I'll be picking it up later this week. So now I need to know how to properly break this beautiful toy in properly. I know I need to clean and lubricate it after I pick it up ( any new things ican learn about on this would be awesome), but how do you M&P experts reccomend breaking her with rounds?
Also is there any kind of info I need to know about what ammo to use or not use? Cleaning supplies or oils?
Also any holster or accessory suggestions?
|
05-14-2012, 03:05 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
|
|
What M&P did you get? Full size, compact or Shield? The compacts are the most versatile when it comes to accessories and its use. Compacts can be made to full size grip with full size mags & X-Grip adapter. M&P40s can be converted to 357 SIG or 9mm.
As for breaking it in. Just follow the manual where to lube and you will be fine. I use Breakfree CLP. Always worked for me.
The M&Ps will eat any ammo you feed it. The Federal or Winchester you find at Wally World will be fine for range ammo. SD ammo most people will suggest Speer Gold Dot.
I carry IWB with Crossbreed SuperTuck. Find them very comfortable.
Most important, just shoot the heck out of it.
Last edited by SoleShtr; 05-14-2012 at 03:18 AM.
|
05-14-2012, 03:32 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
I got the full size 40 cal
|
05-14-2012, 04:17 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 340
Liked 736 Times in 398 Posts
|
|
In addition to hte clean-and-lube, you might want to dry fire 50-100 times before going to the range. You're likely to feel the slide loosen up, and the trigger smooth out a bit. After that, just shoot and have fun.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-14-2012, 04:26 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Aren't dry fires usually bad for firearms? Always was told that but never knew why
|
05-14-2012, 05:50 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tspoon
Aren't dry fires usually bad for firearms? Always was told that but never knew why
|
This really only applies to guns that have a magazine disconnect and the mag is removed. With snap caps in you can dry fire all you want.
|
05-14-2012, 06:13 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 9 Posts
|
|
Always a good idea to take down a new gun and run a patch down the bore before firing it. There is no 'break in' per se.
|
05-14-2012, 06:39 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: God's Country
Posts: 4,711
Likes: 1,235
Liked 3,535 Times in 1,770 Posts
|
|
Dry firing is only bad for rimfire guns because the edge of the chamber may get peened. This prevents cartridges from easily entering the chamber and causes difficult ignition. The firing pins in some older firearms would break if dry fired excessively. There should be no worry about newer guns.
My preferred method of breaking in a new gun is to clean, oil, and shoot lots of ammunition in that order. Clean and repeat.
Hand cycling is a waste of time and usually suggested only by manufacturers of firearms with design or manufacturing defects that they try to blame on the shooter when the shooter complains about malfunctions. I will not bet my life on any gun that needs to be broken in.
Last edited by MichiganScott; 05-14-2012 at 06:43 AM.
|
05-14-2012, 07:30 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 13,465
Liked 8,496 Times in 2,835 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tspoon
... I know I need to clean and lubricate it after I pick it up... [...]... Also is there any kind of info I need to know about what ammo to use or not use? Cleaning supplies or oils? Also any holster or accessory suggestions?
|
Congrats. I've got the 40cal as well and it's just nice to shoot.
You are right, take it apart and clean/lubricate it before you go to the range. For target shooting I use Federal Premium (Champion) 180gr. FMJ. A box of 50rds runs for $15.95 at ammo to go right now.
For home defense I would switch to JHP ammo.
But also shoot the JHP at the range, so you can get used to it.
I bought the Holster offered at the S&W website for the M&P40. It's made by DeSantis and really nice. Affordable too.
Most important, get used to your gun and have fun
__________________
Jorge
|
05-14-2012, 09:25 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 182
Likes: 21
Liked 31 Times in 23 Posts
|
|
Disassemble, clean, lube, shoot, repeat. Run a few hundred fmj's through it, and at least 50 but preferably more of your selected JHP's.
I use Shooter's Choice grease that comes in the little syringe tube thingamabob.
|
05-14-2012, 09:36 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
|
For cleaning, well, there are as many cleaning products as there are opinions on the best. Me, I've tried a bunch: Breakfree CLP, Mil-com grease/oils, FP-10, Ballistol and a few others before settling on Gun Butter oil and grease. Just follow what the owners manual says, and don't over lube. I clean after every match or range trip, no matter what the round count.
Break in: I recently bought a Shield and M&P 9. No break in required or stated in the manual, unlike some manufacturers. Like someone else said, Just Shoot It!
Get some snap caps for dry firing and drills, definitely.
Be safe and have fun!
|
05-14-2012, 02:36 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 340
Liked 736 Times in 398 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tspoon
Aren't dry fires usually bad for firearms? Always was told that but never knew why
|
You've gotten some answers to this question, but I would also point you to the manual for your pistol which says you can dry fire it safely. You do not need snap caps to do this.
As for pre-range dry-firing being a waste of time . . .
Frankly, you can take your new S&W directly to the range and the odds heavily favor it will work just fine.
Cleaning and the limited lubing outlined in your manual simply minimizes the chances that your particular weapon was gunked up by protective oils applied at the factory. It minimizes the chance you will have early failures (eg, failure to feed, load, fire, or eject).
Similarly, pre-range dry-firing will familiarize you with your weapon and will (from personal experience with my own MM&P9 FS) begin to loosen up the slide, work in your lube job, and polish the internal parts. You *will* notice a difference between your first dry-fire and (eg) your 50th.
I'd rate the pre-range clean-and-lube as a very important best practice, and the dry firing as an optional aid to enjoying your first range visit.
|
05-14-2012, 04:04 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: MI
Posts: 64
Likes: 30
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
|
ive had mine since late april fs 9mm, ive put 800 rounds of winchester walmart white box through it and 1 dud round - the bullet was struck in the same manner and depth as my empty shells around me so i determined the round was bad
|
05-14-2012, 04:56 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJEH
Congrats. I've got the 40cal as well and it's just nice to shoot.
Most important, get used to your gun and have fun
|
the more people talk about it the more anxious I get because I want it now!!!
|
05-14-2012, 05:37 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,880
Likes: 1,673
Liked 2,345 Times in 1,111 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoboxer
You've gotten some answers to this question, but I would also point you to the manual for your pistol which says you can dry fire it safely. You do not need snap caps to do this.
|
I'm probably just missing it, but I can't find the page in the Shield manual that mentions dry firing. Can someone can give the page #?
When friends ask, I like to be able to refer them to the source.
Thanks!
|
05-14-2012, 07:18 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobzGuns
I'm probably just missing it, but I can't find the page in the Shield manual that mentions dry firing. Can someone can give the page #?
When friends ask, I like to be able to refer them to the source.
Thanks!
|
I'm missing it too in the PDF
|
05-14-2012, 07:59 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hendersonville Tennessee
Posts: 881
Likes: 111
Liked 156 Times in 114 Posts
|
|
You need to look at the FAQs FAQs - Smith & Wesson to see that answer!
Which is basically if it is a 22 or a rimfire then no you cant without damaging the firing pin so most all M&Ps can be dry fired just don't do it 20,000 times!
__________________
59,M&P9,40,40C,357,(2)45,G26
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-14-2012, 08:17 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,880
Likes: 1,673
Liked 2,345 Times in 1,111 Posts
|
|
Aha!! I'm NOT blind!!
Thanks for the link Houdini.
|
05-15-2012, 02:53 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Thanks for all the great info guys! Now I just have to finish up my waiting period, stock pile ammo, and go nuts getting used to the new caliber and trigger. And I have a feeling it will put a grin on my face!
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|