I purchased both the paste and liquid of FrogLube to use on my M&P 40 and 9c. As I remember, you only use regular gun lubes on the barrel, slide, and slide contact points. Is this the same for Froglube, or do I also allow some to get on the trigger assembly? Thanks.

There are dozens of great video's on youtube about how to apply this AMAZING product. Check out "CrucibleArms" page. armshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-depzYZC8w

I found that the hardest thing to get use to, is that you don't use anything after you put on the Froglube. So far, it has worked for me in my competition guns.

This is what I do:

Degrease with rubbing alcohol
Use the paste to season the parts with heat
Use the CLP (liquid) to clean after firing
Use the CLP (liquid) to lube after cleaning and between seasonings with paste. Lube points are the same.

When seasoning a M&P (paste), I will do the slide (no lube/paste of any sort in the FP channel or the striker block/channel), the barrel, and just the guides on the lower. I do not season the trigger mechanism, the FP, or the RSA.

There are 8 points outlined in the manual where it should be oiled. It doesn't matter what product you use, those points should have lubrication.

Now that I'm done with the party line, I use Frog Lube with a tooth brush. I scrub wherever I see dirt or carbon built up. I take the slide off and scrub down the rails on the slide. I scrub all over the slide itself to get powder residue off the muzzle end and dirt off the sights. I scrub the breech face to get the carbon residue off.

I generally leave the frame alone. At least I don't hit it with the toothbrush. After a short period I wipe everything down with a rag.

That's what I do. I have 1,849 trouble free rounds and have used Frog Lube from day one.

__________________
Freedom isn't free.

I started with FL on 3 new pistols. After cleaning and scrubbing with alcohol I put some paste in a lid and melted with a hair dryer before applying to hot parts. Let sit an hour then wipe down and re apply to hot parts then after an hour or so wipe again lube the points outlined and shoot them. When dirty just blow out everything with an air compressor, heat and wipe down, clean the extractor hook and breech face with a nylon tooth brush re lube with the liquid and shoot. Over 6,000 rounds with 3 pistols and never a hiccup. I also use the liquid for the chamber and bore cleaning. The one I'm most proud of is the XDs which is now at 1,860 failure free rounds.

First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?

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M&P-9FS,Shield40,642,32ColtPPS

No you're not. I use Hoppe's, & Tetra, which works great, so for me there's no need to try something different. GARY

No your not! I picked up some Seal#1 orange in color same minty smell as F/L most feel it's the same stuff.. I'm using the Seal 1 on some things I like some extra slip too.. I think it works and supposed to work it's way into the metal at a molecular level. I enjoy cleaning my guns so it's just hard to get past the old school how to's with them.. Don't know if I will ever clean the hole gun with it.. George

I bought into the hype and now am a regular user on all my revolvers and polymer guns. My cleanup is much easier and faster, I have had zero issues with my guns, and my wife likes the way my workroom trash bags smell.

autos

I'm the same way. I've used Eezox and Mil-Comm grease for years now and couldn't be more pleased. Having to do the additional work of using a hairdryer or another means of heating up the gun every time (I know you don't necessarily have to) for the best results doesn't appeal to me.

hype-
exaggerated publicity; hoopla.

I believe this is the context in which you've used the word hype. There are many products that are "hyped" in this world. I too thought, "Oh boy, another gun cleaning product"

Then I was out of town at a gun training school and had forgot my regular lube. So, I bought some Frog Lube because it's what they had. The kit I got had the paste and liquid. It didn't come with any directions so, I just used the liquid stuff as a cleaner and lubed the rails of my 1911 with the paste as though it were a grease. The gun ran well.

Later, when I got home, I saw a video about heating the gun first and allowing the paste to "soak" in. I figured that since I had the stuff, why not try it. So, I did. I was quite surprised at the result.

Previously I had to scrub certain parts of the gun to remove the carbon fouling. Once treated properly with Frog Lube all that carbon just wiped right off. This is not hype, it really works like that for me.

One thing with Frog Lube is that it doesn't seem to work as well as a lubricant if you let it sit. As an experiment, I lubed the slide of one gun with the liquid stuff and let it sit for one week and then two weeks. After two weeks, the Frog Lube seemed to turn back into the paste form. After two or three shots it liquified again and was fine. It just makes me wonder, for a self defense gun, I want it to work perfectly from the first shot. So, I just re-apply to my carry gun every week. I don't consider this an issue as I usually shoot my gun every week, but I think it's important to note because most don't shoot that often.

__________________
Freedom isn't free.

If it really does get down into metal on a molecular level I think there will be a trace there always.. My bet is that it's better than regular gun oil or any dino products.. Jjust hard to switch for me.

The owners manual of my gun sez to use 4 drops of oil on my 3rd gen and it seems to work fine. If I wanted to try something different I MIGHT use white lithium grease. I don't see any need to get fancy with lubes. When you finish cleaning your gun you put a few drops of oil on it and it''s done.

When using FL, instead of bothering with a heat gun or a blow dryer (unless you've already got them), heating the gun up can be easily accomplished by disassembling it into it's component parts and letting them sit in the sunshine for a short while.

I did this a few days ago and the metal heated up to the point of near discomfort to the touch, whereupon I proceeded to brush on the paste. It turned the paste quickly into it's liquified form and brushed on easily.

For additional heat, put the parts in the sun within a glass enclosure. Like a magnifying glass on a grasshopper, it'll heat everything up quicker than you can say "Grandma Pass The Gravy, Please."

Go solar!

Lots of folks are skeptical but FL works and is easier to clean your guns after heavy use. After two applications and 300 rounds thru my XDs9 I blew it out with a compressor , lightly lubed the rails and front and back of the barrel and put 425 rounds down range in a little over an hour. The stuff starts sweating out of the metal pores as it heats up and continues to lubricate. The one thing that concerns me about it is a freezing environment if you needed it now. I suppose body heat would keep it warm enough. Thought about sticking mine in the freezer and seeing how it performs but haven't worked up the courage to try. Anybody up for the test? At your own risk of course!

Have used FL exclusively on my 9C and Kahr PM9. No other lube has come in contact with either weapon since purchase. Cleaned with alcohol and commenced FL treatment. Weapon becomes "seasoned" after 3rd or 4th application. Then minimal application after that. Wipe weapon down after a healthy range session and the weapon is clean and ready to go. Use liquid form (CLP) when cleaning barrel after every range session (I'm a little OCD--like a clean weapon).
Plus no oil stains in pockets or holsters from oil leaking down and out of the weapon. Smells good too!

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M&P 9C-G19-Shield 9-Kahr PM9

I use FrogLube on all my pistols, no issues and easy clean up.

With FROG LUBE the cleanup is a breeze and it wild to check your weapon after 3 or 4 rounds and see it come back to liquid form. Work great.

Lots of great information coming here. I will be doing my 9c this evening. One question that I have, what about guns that sit in storage for long periods of time, such as the long guns that I don't use?

I have had guns from the 40's mostly in storage with nothing more than gun oil on them.. I do wipe them down and go over them inside and out of them every 6 months but no rust at all.. I don't have time to prove the new lubes good or bad.. Guns that I use I'm starting to use the new lubes. Guns that are safe queens I use gun oil and will continue to do so.. It has worked for me all this time..George

The thing I like about FL the most is that it does NOT attract dust, dirt, & lint like petroleum based cleaners & lubes. Its also made in the good ol USA!!

I was skeptical months ago and read all sorts of forum threads. The only reason I haven't bought any FL yet is I don't want my old cleaners to go to waste. I can't stand getting that petroleum mess all over my hands and the fumy smell. I don't like wearing gloves while cleaning, but I do it to keep my hands from absorbing that mess.

Hmmm. I wonder if my Hoppes #9 can be used as a carb cleaner? LOL

It will be nice to clean my pistols with FL someday where ventilation isn't required.

I clean with Hoppes and or Breakfree CLP but always use Mobil One full synthetic oil for my lube, it won't ever let you down.

Good old #9 has worked great for me.

I caught a video on YouTube (don't recall what it was called) but, he put the FrogLube in the freeze - it didn't freeze.

We've been using FL for almost two years now to keep the lens for our weapon-lights from getting carbon buildup on them... It works great in that application.

I personally haven't used it on my guns, but many of my partners swear by it. I let a partner use my AR upper for a competition and he gave it back to me clean and "lubed" with FL. It sat in my safe for a couple months and I just took it out a couple days ago to re-zero the scope and play with it a bit. It looked dry so I figured it might end up having problems, but I didn't want to mix petroleum products with the FL, so I figured I'd see what happened. After the first couple rounds it looked like it had been freshly oiled. The AR ran great over my small 150rd session of zeroing and training.

I'm impressed and will continue to use FL on the AR and probably also my competition guns. Right now my defensive and duty pistols all use FP10, and have for many years, but after I get more comfortable with FL, I'll probably switch to keep it consistent.

I have been trying to help out the OP and other posters on this post
(M&P 22 Barrel Problems?)

I was wondering has anyone used Seal #1 or Froglube on there M&P .22's and has it well seasoned with the stuff? How it does now with leading using none copper washed ammo like Remington Lighting bolt ammo.. I have Seal #1 and do use it in limited applications but as of yet have not seasoned a barrel with the stuff yet. ( some say it's the same as Froglube but orange) same minty smell.. Would this help with the kind of leading the OP and others have experienced? I have not had a leading issue yet with my M&P .22 I clean after it puffs smoke and about 200 rounds of bad ammo.. Thanks George

I use Froglube on both of my Walther P22's (essentially the same gun) depending on ammo and speed of shooting I still get leading. (I don't actually shoot them but my wife and son do and neither are what I would call fast shooters). I'm just the one that gets to clean the lead out of the barrels.

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Minimize the variables

Bkreutz, Good info! Thank you for your reply! G

I've been using FL on my M&P 22 since new. I have over 7200 rounds through it without a single problem. I used 200 rounds of CCI mini mag to break it in and have been using Federal bulk since.

I have not had any leading issues or issues of any kind. I usually shoot 200-400 rounds per session and cleanup is a snap with FL paste.

After cleaning with the paste, I put a few drops of liquid on the lube points. After several weeks of sitting, the liquid is still there and the pistol is ready for another range trip.

Been using FL for a year on 1911's, only problem I have been having on Kimbers the barrel exterior rust or gets a rust stain(looks like a stain from touching the barrel,sometimes I can see finger prints) and yesterday I noticed where I usually grab the slide, small dots that appear to be rust. I really like using Froglube, but won't put up whit a gun rusting, going back to my Break Free CLP.

I have Frog Lube and used it on my firearms. It smells great and works pretty well but in the end... I didn't like the application of heating etc etc. I've switched to using Break Free CLP and like the way you just spray it on and let it sit. Seems to work just fine.

I've used real oil on my guns for over 40 years. FP10 works just fine. Hoppes still smells good. Old fashioned I guess but I'm not changing to new fangled stuff now.

Yeah, after 40 years of good luck with Hoppes and a good quality oil I'm not gonna change now.Sounds like a good product though.Sounds like "Slick 50" for guns.I know that Slick 50 worked well in my truck engines and transmissions by supposedly bonding polymers to the base metal.It stopped lifter tick and smoothed out transmission shifts.So if this Frog lube works in the same manner it would be great.

I tried Frog Lube with no adverse effects. Still, I didn't really notice that it performed any magic on an AR BCG - still had to scrape carbon. I've had better luck with Hoppes or MPro7 for cleaning, and Militec or Slip 2000 for lube. I recently decided to try Fire Clean, but haven't reached any conclusions. I treated treated one of two identical ARs with it. The other was lubed with Militec. I shot 150 rounds of Federal Tactical thru both. The end result was that the Militec lubed AR had less carbon buildup on the bolt tail and inside the bolt carrier than the Fire Clean treated gun. I haven't had time to clean the Fire Clean treated gun as of yet. I also treated an M&P 9 with it, and it did seem to wipe pretty clean afterwards. The jury's still out on this stuff, however...

I use Mil-Comm grease and the oil. The cleaning with degreaser and then cleaning with the alcohol is pretty much the first application. Yes, after the alcohol (first application) I used a hair
dryer to warm up the metal per Mil-Comm's recommend. That's supposed to allow the applied grease to penetrate the pores of the metal. I used it on the rails of the slide and on the seven points mentioned in the Shield manual. After allowing it to set for an hour__wiped it clean. Use the Mil-Comm oil on the seven points after that__trusting the grease has done it's job. About a thousand rounds now__good so far.
I use the grease_without any more preparation___about every three months on the rails and wipe it dry.
What works__according to Mil-Comm__on military gatling guns should work fine on a pistol. (Likely more than needed, though)
That said, I feel any high quality gun oil and grease is fine for most folks and their hand guns.
I just enjoy going over board.
Since 30,000 people are killed in auto accidents every year we
should do away with autos?
Sempe Fi
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
-- George Orwell