I've had my bodyguard (Crimson Trace model) for about 2 years. Never had a problem. Took it apart 2 days ago...no problem. Reassembly was done quickly (short on time). I think I function checked it...part of my habit. Now I wanted to dry fire it to stay familiar with the trigger. Of course, the first thing you do when you pick up a gun is check for it being unloaded and safe.

The slide will not budge...nothing...okay maybe 2mm...that's it.
tried with magazine in, magazine out, pointed up, pointed down, jiggled it. It won't move. Took outside. pulled the trigger. trigger and hammer work. Slide won't move.

Any suggestions?

Strip it down, when you re-assymble, make sure the barrel is all the way forward. While the slide is off, check the screw in the frame that secures the laser. It's here:

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Halfway and one more step

Thanks for the reply, but I can't strip it back down because the slide will not budge. I can't even begin to rack it. Any ideas on how I can remove the slide without being able to budge it.

I've thought about removing the rear frame pin. I wouldn't be able to remove the internals without removing the take down lever, but it may give me a little rotation on the back of the slide?

Thanks for any help.

Sounds like that screw has jammed up the spring/ guiderod assembly.
If it were mine, I'd have to tap the slide back with a wood block or a plastic hammer. On the otherhand, your local gunsmith may be willing to do the work for you.

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Halfway and one more step

I just tried tapping the slide with a rubber mallet. The most it will move is 1/16 to maybe 1/8 of an inch.

Upon closer examination, it appears that the hammer is not seated in its fully forward position and that, when the trigger is pulled, the hammer only travels a 1/4 inch. When the trigger breaks the hammer only moves forward a portion of the way and with less "gusto".

I got it. I thought at first it might be the laser screw, but this is the CT model. I thought that the screw problem was more the initial offering.

Got to thinking about the hammer not going full forward and that some people had problems with the firing pin housing breaking...especially after dry firing. (Normally I use snap caps, so I don't know what the big deal is, but it happened.)

I tilted the pistol up, pulled the trigger with my left hand, and, with a small screwdriver, caught the hammer and pulled the hammer back as far as it would go. A small black piece fell out of the hammer opening and I was able to rack the slide. Took it apart and put it back together again. function check worked, but obviously I don't believe it will actually discharge a live round.

Thanks for the help, TexzMex

Jerry, what was the piece that fell out? Was it foreign debris or part?
Ok, re read yourlast. Firing pin housing, huh.

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Halfway and one more step

It looks like the slide may need to be replaced. The 1st picture is the part that broke off. The second and third pics are the underneath part of the slide. It appears to have broken off the middle ridge. I believe that houses the firing pin (creates the firing pin channel).

Thanks for your help.

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I've gotten my new, unfired Shield into the same shape as PaJerry's Bodyguard. The slide is stuck about 1mm from battery, with a snap cap in the chamber. It will move backward only about 1mm, then it hits a positive stop so that it won't go back any further. Since I can't get the slide back far enough, I can't work the slide stop lever or the takedown lever, so I can't take the slide off to see what the problem is. I moved the sear deactivation lever back to its up position before I replaced the slide the last time I fieldstripped the gun. Like PaJerry, I'm considering popping out the rear frame pin, since I can't get to any other part. Unlike PaJerry and his Bodyguard, I can't get in at the trigger, because the Shield doesn't have one. I'm stumped. Jeepers.

I forgot to mention that the slide stop lever is very hard to release from the hold-back position. I have to use both thumbs and all my strength (please no cracks about just how much strength that is). I've only ever bought one S&W new, a 669 in 1986, and it's controls worked like butter straight out of the box.

I am not a gunsmith by any means of the imagination. Do whatever I suggest at your own risk...that said and out of the way..I wouldn't remove the frame pin. Instead, first review how to disassemble the slide...in particular how to remove the firing pin. There is a cover on the back of the slide that must be removed. I would try pushing the slide back as far as I could; hopefully there is enough clearance for the back plate to slide off. If there is space, and it won't release, have someone pull the trigger while you try to slide it off.
if it comes off, then pressing down on the metal at the bottom back end of the slide while pressing the trigger should release the firing pin. Hopefully, you can then remove the slide.

Check the snap cap to see if it is still good or if it was "capturing" the striker.

Good luck,
PaJ

just a thought from a retired journeyman repairman - the hardened firing pin may have broke due to bad heat treating causing the metal to become brittle. like I said just a thought