M&P Lubrication

wiz561 · Jan 8, 2016

Sorry to bring up yet another lube post, but I do have a question about it. I've probably had about 500 rounds through my M&P and I have always used Hoppes Oil on the #3 point that's the trigger bar and the barrel (6,7), and Shooters Choice grease on the top and side of #'s 1,2,4,5....which is the part the rail glides on-on the frame. I use a very small amount of grease to where I put a dab on a patch and take a small plastic screwdriver and just dab a small amount on those points.

In my one class I took, the instructor was pretty set on just using oil. The manual says just use oil. So, I cleaned it the other night and tried oil, just like the manual says. The only problem is when I put a drop of oil on the 1,2,4,5 points and it seemed a bit excessive to the point where if I put it back together, I bet it will leak off the points. I wiped it off, recleaned it, and went back to the grease because I didn't feel like having oil get all over the internal parts without checking here first.

I liked the grease because it stays put. The oil seems wrong because it drips off and all over the place. Do you put a drop on and then wipe the top of the frame/point with a patch or qtip? If you do that, is it really enough? On the barrel, they say put a drop right in front of where the 9mm is stamped, but yet there's wear right where the 9mm is stamped. Should I be oiling where the wear is, or right in front of it (towards the muzzle) like the manual says?

Thank you in advanced.

Arik · Jan 8, 2016

Use a little bit of oil. Dab it on on your finger or a Qtip. No grease necessary. Yes it's enough. It just bead a coating. I use oil sparingly and if I get a little extra I just wipe off. Never had a problem or leak.

I don't worry to much about what the manual says or exectly where to add oil. I just wipe it on and done.

Virginia John · Jan 8, 2016

Everyone develops their own philosophy regarding grease and oil or neither. What you are doing sounds fine and if it works for you go ahead as you are doing.

g-dad · Jan 8, 2016

Everyone has what works for them. Both ways you described will work. I have grease that I have used on an AR and I oil my auto loaders. My thought process is that the grease will collect and hold gun powder residue where it is applied and potentially gum up the works. Oil on the other hand provides a micro thin layer of protection and may not collect as much residue.

Now that I've stated that in reality I clean my guns after every use and I don't use thousands of rounds at each session. So what it really comes down to is how you take care of your toys.

Grease or oil? It's your choice just keep em clean.

YMMV

PirateJim · Jan 8, 2016

On my Shield I've been pretty much following the recommendations in the manual and sticking to good ol' Hoppe's #9. I have one of their "precision" bottles with the needle tip that lets me apply a smaller dab than the bigger plastic bottle would. However, I do use grease on my Pro Series and 1911s, and now I'm thinking about it, wouldn't hesitate to use in on the Shield.

I got a big tube of Super Lube years ago and it's still with me. I get a dab of grease on a Q-tip and apply it along the groove on the slide, just enough to leave a thin layer. Then wipe off excess (outside the groove) with a patch.

So far as the barrel hood, I think the spot where you see wear is your gun whispering to you about where the oil should go.

NCW Ray · Jan 8, 2016

I've used Break Free CLP since the early 80's and have never had a problem with leaking because of over oiling. I just put a drop of CLP on each of those locations using a toothpick/Q-Tip/corner of a paper towel, etc.

bigwheelzip · Jan 8, 2016

I use grease on the slide-to-frame and slide-to-barrel friction points. Oil for trigger mechanism and surface rust preventative.

sschrick · Jan 8, 2016

a couple of drops here and there and rub it around. . .goes a long way. never really too worried about overlubing an MP, Glock, Springfield pistol this way. They are designed as "combat" style pistols with much looser tolerances than a precision 1911. Therefore, they will run close to dry.
FYI. . .I only use Hoppe's oil and have not had any issues on any of my pistols. Just a little to help reduce the friction on the rubbing/wearing surfaces and you are good to go.

Mister X · Jan 8, 2016

I'm fine with just oil.

And Hoppes #9 lubricating oil is nothing more than 100% white mineral oil. You can buy USP white mineral oil in the pharmacy and it will be much cheaper and actually better than the Hoppes since it is cleaner/impurities removed. I checked the MSDS/SDS information http://www.hoppes.com/Hoppes/files/79/79d2741a-e1df-44fe-8395-e68765933ab5.pdf as well as talked to a couple of people in management at Hoppes/Bushnell who both stated that's all was in it. And just to quadruple check, I called the Chem-pak emergency hotline on the MSDS and they stated that is was in fact 100% white mineral oil. Nothing more, nothing less. They said the only difference between it and what you buy in the pharmacy was that their version was industrial grade explaining that meant that the contaminants were not removed like a USP grade, so it wasn't certified food safe or to consume. So, if you like the Hoppes #9 lubricating oil, save the Hoppes bottle and simply refill it with better and cheaper USP white mineral oil. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equate-Mineral-Oil-Intestinal-Lubricant-16-fl-oz/44807472

Heyman · Jan 8, 2016

I use wheel bearing grease and put just a dab on the rails and a light coat on the barrel's wear spots. I rarely clean any of my guns, and even so, it doesn't get too dirty since there isn't a bunch of oil of grease to attract dirt or other debris. For my AR's, I use Slip 2000.

Ballistic147 · Jan 8, 2016

I've always used a little grease on the slide rails of all my pistols. A friend of mine uses oil. Neither of us have ever had any trouble so choose one and roll on.

For about a year now I've been using Boron Nitride on the outer surface of the barrel and the RSA. It's a white, dry film powder that is super slick and so far it has worked well. I see no wear at all and being it is a dry powder it does not attract dust or dirt. It also works it's way into the metal.

My little Taurus TCP is lubricated with nothing but Boron Nitride. Being pocket carried all the time it makes cleaning the pocket lint out very easy with just compressed air since there is no grease or oil anywhere in the gun. I do still apply a light coat of RemOil on the exterior for rust protection.

wiz561 · Jan 8, 2016

Thank you all for the responses. I had a feeling that there would be a lot of responses, but it gives me some food for thought when it comes to oil vs grease and how to apply the oil.

Overall, it sounds like it really doesn't matter with the oil vs grease, as everybody uses one or the other and nobody has had any issues. I think next time, I might try a bit of oil instead of the grease and see what happens.

Also, thank you for the poster who said that I need to start putting some oil where it's wearing on the barrel. It's not bad, just a bit discolored. Maybe I'll try to do a post here to make sure it's OK...which I'm sure it is. I oiled it where the arrow pointed to in the manual, but maybe it needs a dab a bit behind the arrow too.

MSG Glenn · Jan 8, 2016

I'm all in for CLP. Used Hoppes for years & later synthetic motor oil for the lube points. Worked well enough but the oil has a tendency to attract dust & residue. I haven't noticed that at all with BreakFree CLP & the stuff makes cleaning really fast since it's a cleaner as well as a lube. The GSR rubs right off. Just because the lube points appear dry they're still lubricated.

My LEO son turned me on to that. His department uses CLP & when I told him his duty weapon looked too dry to me he assured me that his range instructor assured him it was still absolutely lubricated and protected.

McE · Jan 8, 2016

Oil is all you need unless you have a habit of going thousands of rounds without cleaning.
I clean my guns every two range trips or so, it'd be more hassle if I had to degrease and regrease instead of just wipe and oil.
If you're worried about oil running off, you're using too much. When you use too much, you think oil attracts crud.

agksimon · Jan 8, 2016

I have an Apex gunsmith fit barrel in my 9 Pro and use a light coating of Tetra Gun Grease on the rails, the bottom of the slide and the barrel lug. These are all contact points for wear. After a couple of hundred rounds, I clean it off and re-apply. I even wipe on a little on the barrel, then wipe it off, as the slide moves over it. There is absolutely no signs of wear, after thousands of rounds.

wiz561 · Jan 8, 2016

McE said:
Oil is all you need unless you have a habit of going thousands of rounds without cleaning.
I clean my guns every two range trips or so, it'd be more hassle if I had to degrease and regrease instead of just wipe and oil.
If you're worried about oil running off, you're using too much. When you use too much, you think oil attracts crud.

Thanks. This is my concern...if oil is dripping or pooling off of the area I lubricate, then I think it's too much and will attract things I don't want (carbon, dirt, other stuff). This is why I stuck to the grease.

Next time I clean, I'm going to try the oil and see what happens.

swsig · Jan 8, 2016

My two SIGs came with small sample tubes of Mil-Comm TW25b grease. As far as I know, it's the only specific brand of lubricant that is recommended by any gun manufacturer. I've used it exclusively on my SIGs (a P320 9 Compact, and a P250sc .380), and on my S&Ws (an M&P 40c, and a Shield 9) for all of their lubrication points. I have nearly 15,000 rounds through the four guns combined, and none of them shows any signs of unusual wear. The only caveat is that you must use Mil-Comm's water-based cleaner, because TW25b does not work with petroleum-based cleaners. The good news is that a bottle of the cleaner and a syringe of the lube will last a long time, because a little of each goes a long way.

cardguy · Jan 8, 2016

It's weapon Shield for all my guns.

BigDog48 · Jan 8, 2016

McE hit right on my opinion and practice. If you clean your weapon every one or two outings, I'd have a hard time believing (and have never seen) any excessive buildup of anything. I use CLP everywhere that the manufacturer suggests lubing. I also use the SMALLEST touch of Tetra gun grease on rails of semis. Never had a build up of anything yet....30 years!

Horn · Jan 8, 2016

Only Mil-Comm

swsig said:
My two SIGs came with small sample tubes of Mil-Comm TW25b grease. As far as I know, it's the only specific brand of lubricant that is recommended by any gun manufacturer. I've used it exclusively on my SIGs (a P320 9 Compact, and a P250sc .380), and on my S&Ws (an M&P 40c, and a Shield 9) for all of their lubrication points. I have nearly 15,000 rounds through the four guns combined, and none of them shows any signs of unusual wear. The only caveat is that you must use Mil-Comm's water-based cleaner, because TW25b does not work with petroleum-based cleaners. The good news is that a bottle of the cleaner and a syringe of the lube will last a long time, because a little of each goes a long way.

Me too. I've used Mil-Comm on every pistol I have. The cleaner/degreaser TW-25 as well as their oil in the tiny areas.
Reportedly the TW-25 is used on our military's gatling guns.
It's also reported as "extreme lubrication". It doesn't leave any lubricant to be seen__if using it as prescribed. (Wiped off)
However, I'm sure a lot of today's lubricants work fine.
I just don't consider cleaning my pistols a chore.

M&P Lubrication

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