Dear folks,
After cleaning my M&Ps (often using Seal1), I put a drop of oil on the slide rails and the trigger bar where it bumps the striker block. Should I oil the barrel hood too?

Any response would be welcome.

I am pretty sure your manual describes the proper lubrication of your weapon. Have you read it?
I typically lubricate any point of contact between parts that rotate slide or otherwise make contact with one another.

Yup. Figure 25 shows the lubing of the barrel. The hood that is behind the indicated lubrication point gets scuff marks over time.

My lubrication on the barrel of the M&P is to put Brownells Action Lube on every part of the outside of the barrel that shows contact scuffing, very sparingly! I don't use oil on the barrel or slide, preferring a thin coat of action lube on the contact points.

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Science plus Art

RIG makes a very high performing light grease gun lube. I found that it works wonderfully in all semi-autos for lubing the rails and the barrel contact points. Put a little dab on the tip of a finger and rub a very thin coat over those contact points. Works like a charm. It has made auto 'run' for me that wouldn't work when dry.

The other place it is superb is on the ejector rod leading up to the ejector star in S&W revolvers. They just work better when using RIG lube over using oil type lubes. ........

I know I sometimes sound like a broken record, but I will repeat this every time I see a post like this. If you buy a gun new, it should come with a manual; if you buy one used, it's easy enough to get a manual, especially in these days of the Internet.

READ IT! It will save you tons of woe, and will answer at least 90% of the questions I see asked by new gun owners in this and other forums.

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Pisgah

That RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube is one of the few obviously superior developments in the field of lubes, which seems to be populated as much by hype as lubrication.

I would caution anyone who uses this lube on the sear and hammer of a 1911, which I would recommend, to be sure to repeat all prescribed safety checks before employing the pistol.

I once had some action work done on a Model 25 by a pretty good gunsmith, but it had a slight hitch in the DA. I removed all the lube (Ed's Red), and relubed with RIG +P SS. Hitch disappeared.

I recommend it for sear, hammer, slide stop and ramp of 1911. Also rails and bushing/barrel interfaces. A little goes a long way, and there is no point in leaving any visible amount on the gun. Spread it with your index finger, or a Q-tip if necessary for access.

The Brownell's stuff is probably just as good, but not as easy to apply.