I picked up my M&P 9 FS last week and want to buy a gun cleaning kit. I was thinking of getting the Hoppes kit which comes with the solvent and gun oil. I called S&W customer service and they guy I spoke with said not to use the Hoppes solvent as it contains ammonia, which he said can damage the frame.
He suggested Breakfree CLP. In checking that out, I find that CLP contains PTFE or teflon. Some websites and forums said that teflon is not good to clean the barrel with because of the high temperatures generated when shooting.
Any suggestions? Thanks.

Never researched Teflon. Been using CLP for decades. I believe the military uses it as well. I don't get the high temp part. Are you cleaning directly after each shot?

I've used probably everything that's available at one time or another. All worked fine for me
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On my MP full size 9 I use:

Cleaning: Remington bore cleaner and Rem action cleaner.

Barrel oil: M-Pro 7

Gun Grease: Mil-Comm TW25B

I use the grease on the slide rail slots and friction areas on the barrel

Well, ....... I use a lot of Break-Free CLP. To the best of my knowledge the Safariland brand does not contain any PTFE; or, at least, not the old, thick, viscous and heavy, white kind.

The former Armor brand did have some Teflon in it; but I don't think it was the same heavy, white (and mildly irritating) PTFE as the mil-spec formula (Mil-L-63460). Safariland seems to have done a very good job of revising the original San Bar Corp, and Armor Holdings' Break-Free formulas.

I, too, would recommend the new Safariland Break-Fee; and, unlike Ballistol, it doesn't get gummy or turn acidic after only 3 or 4 months on the gun. (Yes, I use Ballistol as well; but, only on guns that I intend to clean again within a month, or two.)

Another good CLP? For a carry gun that's going to be exposed to the weather, and might not get cleaned or wiped down as frequently as it should, I like FrogLube; but I'll warn you: FrogLube is an absolutely excellent protectant; but, by comparison, it's a very slow and labor-intensive cleaner.

I like FrogLube as an external protectant that can go for several months at a time without needing to be reapplied. It really does a good job of protecting metal from handling, and the weather; but it takes a little more time and effort to apply. If you're not careful with your application, excess FrogLube can buildup and become sticky - Especially in cold weather. However, I've never seen FL become acidic.

What's the drawback to using FrogLube? It doesn't get along well with petroleum-based lubricants. This is NOT necessarily a, 'big deal'; but, sooner or later, you'll probably put some oil on your EDC pistol; and that excellent FrogLube protection can, then, be easily wiped off!

For cleaning barrels - which I find myself always doing far too much of - I absolutely swear by Flitz Metal Polish. Nothing gets the crude out of a bore as well as Flitz does! Today, and after years and years of, 'field-testing' nearly every CLP on the market, the most commonly used gun maintenance products on my workbench include: Break-Free CLP, Flitz Metal Polish, FrogLube CLP, Ballistol, and Lucas Gun Oil.

At one time, or another I've tried them all; and everything's now come down to these several products. I expect that I'll, probably, stay with them, 'forever'.


NOTES: I'll offer you a few more tips.

(1) For pistol cleaning: LOSE THE JAG AND SLOTTED CLEANING ROD ENDS! You don't need them; and they'll only slow you down, and increase the amount of time and effort needed to clean a pistol.

(2) With the sole exception of field-expedient use, never use any sort of cable or flexible cleaning rod. Cleaning snakes? I own 'um; but I almost never use 'um. Instead, I prefer to throw the, 'gun crude' away rather than carry it around with me.

(3) I use a bronze brush head for all of the heavy-duty bore cleaning; and a Tynex brush for the lighter work. The 100% cotton patches get wrapped around the brush!

(4) Inside the gun I'll often use common ordinary Q-Tips, and/or a cotton patch wrapped over the end of a small, long shaft, (electronics) screwdriver.

(I've had retired - but still very serious - Drill Instructors, and/or Drill Sergeants finger a breech, then look down my gun barrel, and whistle!)

Clp is only good in my opinion if you have a chrome lined bore that doesn't copper up. The military went to CLP after they started chrome lining rifle bores as the lined bores were not prone to coppering up and negated the need for a copper cutting bore cleaner. So, if you have a pistol that doesn't strip copper from the bullet jackets CLP is great stuff. If you have a rifle like a 22/250 the CLP will not properly clean the bore. Then you'll be needing a dedicated bore solvent. I have also found old fashioned 3in1 oil to be a pretty good general cleaning oil. I use it on my .22

I agree! I use the bore brush and a large patch wrapped around it. It works beautifully! Plus all the tips you have provided in your post.

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It's The Carbonaro Effect!

NO one has mentioned " Safari Charlie " gun lube Plus . I buy it at gun shows , only place I can find it . It does not contain teflon, no wax , no silicones . It is a high tech gun cleaning lubricant for extreme conditions and tough jobs. I have used it for years . Rem-oil still have a place on my bench (when I can't find my can of Safari Charlie) as well as a can of 3-In-1 oil .

I found the answer, in your question. Why not use the Hoppes for the barrel and the breakfree for the frame, problem solved.

The various gun oils and their wondrous properties represents on of the biggest scams going in the shooting world. CLP, RemOil, etc., etc. -- all are essentially the same thing, varying only very slightly in formulation, and all do the same job. Sure, this one or that may contain Teflon, or whatever -- but note that they rarely make any solid claim or show any verifiable evidence that these additives actually do anything. If you want a really fine gun oil, check the sewing department at Walmart and buy Singer Sewing Machine oil. Cheap, and it works well.

Copper removal will require more than CLP, but be aware -- copper fouling is very rarely a problem in most handguns. And while ammoniated cleaners can cause damage to the finish of new S&W revolvers (their bluing us no longer actual bluing), I am unaware of any ammoniated cleaner that will damage the plastic frames

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Pisgah

I've been using Frog Lube liquid and a brass brush for bore cleaner. Works pretty well. I use the paste and heat treatment for lube and corrosion protection. Works very well.

I know this has been posted here before, but I'll post it once more.

Results of gun care product evaluation

It's a comparison and comprehensive test results of many of the common firearm cleaning products corrosion and lubricity performance.

Birchwood Casey Poly Safe Gun Scrubber aerosol, Kroil and Militec-1 lube and protectant. I use a poly Glock brush in the bore, no metal brushes. Push patches through with the brush, no jags.

A lot of folks take better care of their guns than they do themselves. I would avoid the Hoppes 9 solvent or any toxic chemicals(including BF CLP) due to concerns for yourself rather than worries for a gun/a tool. There is a large selecting of non-toxic products out there that work really well.

And the Hoppes #9 oil that comes in the kits that people have used for decades is nothing more than plain white mineral oil. You can buy USP white mineral oil in the pharmacy for a fraction of the price if you are fine with the Hoppes oil.

Been using Breakfree CLP since the early 80's, no rusting issues, no gumming up issues, used it on all of my duty pistols and see no need to change now. If for some reason the barrel has some stubborn fouling I can always dig out my old bottle of Hoppe's #9.

Fp-10 is awesome oil. Thin enough to not hold grime, super slick. I use it everywhere on the gun, even externally on the slide. Clp can gum up in my experience.


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been using the basic Hoppe's solvent and oil on my polymer framed pistols for years. no issues.
I think the Hoppe's is only an issue if you let the pistol soak in it. but if some gets on the frame and then you wipe it off no problems. Clean the barrel and inner metal workings real good.

In the shop where I work we use Slip2000's 725 cleaner for most gun cleaning we do and then their Gun Lube when we put everything back together.
The cleaner's nice because it's water based/non-toxic/etc. but still incredibly strong and the oil doesn't seem to break down/dry out/gum up/"evaporate"/etc. like others can, plus it has an incredibly silly functional temperature range. (-110F-1250F)

G96 Gun Treatment, for everything. I've been using it for 51 years! It also has a great smell, totally safe. Non irritating vapors, not harmful to your skin.

Simple short answer: Hoppes and bronze bore brush for the bore, Hoppes gun oil for everything else. Why have a shelf full of oils and cleaners?

Hoppes makes a line called Elite Gun Cleaner and Elite Gun Oil , high performance , no ammonia , won't hurt nickle , alloy or plastic guns. The best part is Low/no odor. Bottle says "scent free" and there is very little if any smell! They work , cleaner and oil both do a good job....I like them both. My wife , who can smell things from 1 mile away, likes them too.....me and my freshly cleaned gun can both stay in the bedroom.
G96 is a good product too , but my local gun shop doesn't carry it, wish someone around here did. Might have to try online, would rather buy local though.
Gary

I've been using hopes for a long time and never had any issues on polymer guns my only complain is the strong smell, so I change to CLP and sometimes FL, very pleased with the results.

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M&P 9, Shield9.

You are So... Right!

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It's The Carbonaro Effect!

So many choices, so many answers.

My personal choice is Break-Free CLP; it's readily available, and does an admirable job of lubricating and protecting. I've never had anything I've applied it to rust.

I even use it on squeaky door hinges, and the stuff just lasts and lasts.

I wonder exactly how Hoppes No. 9 will harm the M&P pistol frame? I understand it may be a problem with modern bluing on the revolvers, but on a polymer frame?

I personally find that hard to believe.

And, if it is true, then the M&P just became an "also ran" in any type of competition for a LE or military pistol.

I would certainly like to hear more on this.

I was reluctant at first to buy into the hype of Froglube, Bute after using it. Everything you heard is true. An absolute miracle. Carbon wipes right off after use. And it has a pleasant minty smell.

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M&P 9FS
M&P SHIELD 40

Wilsons Ultima Lube for lubricating. Slickest stuff I have ever used. He used to post his video of the ball bearing test, really good product!

Why not use a flexible cleaning rod? I like the patchworm product. Basically a plastic flexible (think weed eater string). The patch is pulled through the barrel. Virtually no chance of harming anything. Easy to use and works well.

Also I have never had Ballistol "turn acidic". Actually the opposite, it neutralised acidic residues.

I currently use Mpro7 solvent and Slip 2000 lube. I also like Militec lube. In the past, ive used products from Hoppes, Breakfree, G96, Remington, etc. the absolute best solvent I ever used was military rifle bore cleaner (RBC), but they have since claimed the stuff caused all sorts of health hazards (I've heard the same about Hoppes #9, but problems with polymer frames is new). Anyway, I now have to work a little harder to get carbon out of the bolt carrier. I've tried Frog Lube and Fireclean. While I had no problems, I haven't experienced any better results than I'm having right now. I gave the Fireclean to a friend who has a couple of suppressed ARs, but have heard if it worked as advertised.

I have a lot of cleaning chemicals on the shelf for use with firearms, but the two that get the most use on my handguns are M-Pro7 cleaning formula, along with BreakFree CLP on both my revolvers and semi autos. Rails get a dab of grease. I start with a wet patch, followed by a bronze brush to loosen up fouling and metal residue, and finish alternating wet/dry patches. Out of habit, I clean my guns after every trip to the firing range.

Good Morning, All,

For what it's worth: I've used Hoppe's #9 solvent for more than 40 years, without a single problem. I learned, very early on, NOT to soak nickle-plated firearms in it, as it can etch, or "spider-web" the nickel. But, I've cleaned quite a few nickel-plated pistols, with no problems, whatsoever. Just don't soak them in Hoppe's. I continue to use Hoppe's to this very day, along with other, more modern cleaners and lubricants. I've been using M-Pro 7 recently, and like it very much. Seems like a great product, and it's earned my trust already. For gun grease, I still use, and swear by RIG Stainless Steel Plus P lube, as well as RIG Universal grease. Those two greases just work, pure and simple. No worries about evaporation, or hardening after a long period of time, either. All of my semi-automatic pistols are lubed with them, and I trust both far more than BreakFree, which to me, is not a great lube, compared to many others out there today.

Each to his/her own, however, and if something is working for you, keep using it. That's why I, for the most part, stick to the tried and true lubricants and protectants. Good luck, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

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Honor God, above all.

Liquid Wrench with Cerflon, which is the same ingredient used in S&W's dry lube. I use it on my AR15, Shield 9mm, and wife's new BodyGuard 380. I'll never use wet lube again.

I'll take a spent shell (or snap cap) and insert it into my gun bores before spraying them so none of the lube gets in the chamber\bore.

On my AR15, my ejected shells practically land in a pile.

Cleanup and re-lube is breeze. The best part is you can use it anywhere where there are friction points and don't have to worry about over-lubing such as the firing pin. Repetitive lubings seem to have an additive effect. I use both the liquid bottle dropper as well as the spray.

To add to the laundry list, I really like Gunzilla, which is a plant based CLP that works. For copper removal the same company makes Copperzilla, which has no ammonia and also works very well. Hard to find in gun stores, but Amazon carries them.