This is the first time I'm doing anything like this, other than a new trigger in my Shield 2 days ago, but this time it's the whole kit.

I installed the Flat Faced forward set trigger on my 9L. I have the full PC version. The plunger is very smooth and rounded, actually smoother and more rounded that the one in the Apex Kit. Rather than removing the rear sight, I left the stock plunger in. Since it's smother and more rounded, am I losing anything by not changing to the Apex, or better off? Trigger gauge says 4lbs 11oz. I used the silver spring which I thought was supposed to be less than 4lbs, but maybe that is because I didn't change out the plunger spring? Trigger seems very nice just the way it is now.

Thanks for any info.

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It would be helpful for you to use the common parts nomenclature so we don't go round & round giving you advice you don't need.

If by plunger you mean the striker block, then I would advise you to use all the Apex parts. There are timing issues that relate to the sear, trigger bar and striker block. You will likely have more success, and get more support from Apex if you need it, by using all the parts in their kit and their spring recommendations.

Use the striker block and spring that came with the kit, the lighter apex USB spring should lighten the trigger pull a little bit more. By changing the stock to the apex USB, my trigger pull lightened over a pound. You don't have to remove the rear sight to change it. Go to the apex web site and follow the instructional vid on how it's done.

The trigger pull is less "gritty" with the Apex striker block and spring installed. The rear sight must come off to change the striker block and you will have a hard time removing the sight, possibly buggering it up considerably. (Ask me how I know that.) I purchased Ameriglo sights to install after I bashed the rear sight.

I just replaced the stock sear with the Apex tactical hard sear and that was enough for me. I didn't want to mess with the rear sight in order to replace the other parts.

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Shield 45

If you have the C.O.R.E. version, the Striker Block is under the plastic CORE cover, no need to remove the rear sight. Since you have the new Striker Block, and it's easy to replace, would recommend you swap it out.

You don't need to remove the rear sight, because the SB is under the optic mount cover instead of the rear sight. The Apex striker block spring is a bit shorter and softer than the factory making the trigger pull lighter.

ahhh, That's why this forum is so great, I watched the Apex video, and it showed removing the sight, but now I see it must be under the refex sight so just a couple of screws.

I will try the apex striker block tomorrow. The stcok striker block really is much smoother though. I think I may end up with the stock striker block and the Apex spring.

About not using the proper nomenclature I apologize, I started my post with "this is the first time doing anything like this" I had hoped that might have given you a clue, that I might not know the correct nomenclature? Since there is only one part that the video says goes under the rear sight, someone would know what I meant. Hopefully I'll learn from the folks here and self learning and be more knowledgeable of the proper terminology soon.

Thanks to everyone. I'll post here after I try it and let everyone know how I made out.

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FYI Apex customer service, got back to me, and said no problem using the stock one, and if it was actually smoother and more rounded I might be better off.

I will take a pic of both when I try it tomorrow.

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you need a 0.5 hex tool to remove the screw that holds down the striker block

S&W M&P CORE Apex FSS trigger FULL INSTALL jeff shoots stuff - YouTube

OK thanks, I've got a pretty good tool box

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Be careful, that screw is alloy, not steel and will strip out easily.

OK, As promised I Swapped out the striker blocks and springs. The original Performance center Striker Block is definitely better, so I ended up putting it back in but using the Apex spring. This is the full Performance Center model, and not the Pro series. The Pro series (which also goes through the performance center) is a bridge between Standard and the Performance Center, snd the Trigger on the full performance center gets more work (at least according to S&W). Just thinking that might be some of the confusion?

Anyway, The trigger pull went from ~4lbz 10oz to ~4lbs 1oz. I feel no grit at all, and is a very smooth short trigger pull.

Here are a few pics of the striker blocks. I'm not sure if it shows up, but the Apex has a slight circle of a ridge on the top of the Striker Block where the S&W is very smooth. Not knowing a whole lot about this (but learning) I'm think that ridge would be after the break anyway?

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they both look almost identical .. I like to polish the apex striker block. I had a Pro that went back to S&W for a very heavy trigger pull was sent by the original owner I bought it after it came back from s&w not impressed at all only thing it had better was a short reset other than that awfull 8lb trigger pull.

Yeah, It's hard to see in the pic. Basically on the top where it flattens out, that circle has a ridge, on the apex and is polished smooth on the original. My trigger pull was 5lbs 10-12oz or so originally. now just over 4lbs, and the over travel is so short, it may be less and I'm adding a little hitting the end.

I think it's just about perfect for me, no need to be any lighter, and I feel nothing but smooth. And with the RAM I now have a reset I can feel.

By the way the hex key is .050

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