Trigger

Looks very good! How's it feel now?

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Got Apex?

The weight of the trigger feels heavier in the "first stage" leading up to the break, but it feels very smooth. I don't mind it feeling heavier because it's "safer" when holstering but it's also not jerky, meaning as I pull back it's fluid and doesn't stop or skip. Where the trigger is going to break is so much easier to get to than the stock trigger system and then it's a short click once you pull it. It's also easier to hold The trigger at that breaking point and be confident it's not going to randomly go off. The reset is much shorter than stock but I don't know if it's because of the size of the trigger giving the illusion. The striker safety is much lighter it seems and much smoother, again, less jerky. I don't know if the polishing I did made it any better though (on the stock parts).

this actually is an illusion in the new 2.0 because of the way the new parts interact, you can't' actually change the reset point without modifying the the new sear actuator. Apex is addressing that part in the new FSS kits that are coming out for the 2.0. in the older system, the reset length was more dependent on the interface between the trigger bar loop and the geometry of the little lobe on the sear.

still, even with the stock system, they got it down to a pretty good place... its a pretty short reset...

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Equal opportunity shooter

One question. Did I mess anything up by knocking off the little flat where the arrow points? It looked like the drawing I made on the right (side view) before I filed it. Now it looks like the drawing on the left. Hard to tell bad stamping and machining from intentional, but I didn't figure it was needed. There was a ton of grooves on that entire side and I decided to make the call and flatten it entirely. Took a risk...

not likely. the striker block doesn't even contact down that low on the nub.

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Equal opportunity shooter

the next face down hill from that; the one that contacts the new sear actuator, however, can affect your over travel. if you take too much off of that you might interfere with the striker dropping properly and possible light strikes. you do want minimal over travel but you still need at least a tiny amount to make sure the sear is able to fully get out of the way of the striker.

you probably don't have anything to worry about

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Equal opportunity shooter

You don't want to alter the geometry in any way. Just smoothing out any tool marks or burrs. Hit it with a dremel felt wheel and some flitz to put a mirror shine on it as a final step and it'll be "slicker than snot on a brass door knob" as my dad used to say.

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Hopefully it all works. My range is down for a month!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

That stinks! guess you'll have to break it in with a bunch of dry fire practice!

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Equal opportunity shooter

I've got snap caps. Already been on that since the night I installed the trigger!

I've went with the Apex trigger, comp spring kit and sear. Glad I did. I'm reading and experiencing 'grit' and the culprit seems to be the striker block. I know Apex sells a replacement SB. And read of guys polishing out the stock SB to reduce or eliminate this 'grit'. Why not just remove the striker block and its spring altogether? Similar to those of us who own Series 80 1911s and remove the S-80 parts (& install the shim). I don't carry 'locked and loaded'. I've a MP9 CORE.

Striker block is the only thing that will keep the gun from igniting in case of striker latch failure. Even if you don't carry with a round in the chamber, you still wouldn't want an accidental discharge at the range or something.

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Equal opportunity shooter

Thanx Smakmauz, I've read a lot of threads here and don't remember reading anything about anyone removing the striker block. What you write is right and makes sense. (Y)